12HT-swapped 1988 HJ60 in Melbourne

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So progress has been pretty slow as life has gotten in the way. It’s a blessing and a curse when your cruiser isn’t your daily driver.

I’ve split my fan shroud
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Painted it and a few brackets
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Repainted the crossover lettering
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Got some pipes, bolts, and rear door latches electroplated
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And tapped my exhaust manifold for an EGT gauge
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Everything is ready to put back together once I properly clean off the old gasket material and do a few paint touchups on the frame
 
Starting to look a bit more like a 12HT!

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Two questions that I could not find the answers to in the FSM:

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I put in a new gasket when I re-attached the exhaust to the downpipe (I should say I put in a gasket - PO or whoever did their exhaust left it out). What’s the torque specs for these nuts and is the gasket meant to crush so the downpipe flange is flush with the exhaust flange, or is there meant to be a gap?


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Which vacuum hose for the air filter sensor connects to which part of the airbox? I had this problem last time I took the airbox off, so I really just need to label the hoses… 🤦
 
Starting to look a bit more like a 12HT!

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Two questions that I could not find the answers to in the FSM:

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I put in a new gasket when I re-attached the exhaust to the downpipe (I should say I put in a gasket - PO or whoever did their exhaust left it out). What’s the torque specs for these nuts and is the gasket meant to crush so the downpipe flange is flush with the exhaust flange, or is there meant to be a gap?


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Which vacuum hose for the air filter sensor connects to which part of the airbox? I had this problem last time I took the airbox off, so I really just need to label the hoses… 🤦
The exhaust flanges don't need to meet, you'll find they just bend at the edges if you over-tighten them. The gasket only needs to be snug between the two, there's not really that much pressure in the pipe.

For the air filter warning switch, the hose coming from the side where the wiring harness plug goes in goes to the downstream side (in the output pipe) and the side facing the engine goes to the flat part of the lid.

I would get rid of those nasty screw clamps and use genuine spring clamps. If the hose leaks with the original clamp, the hose and/or pipe need replacing.
 
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The exhaust flanges don't need to meet, you'll find the just bend at the edges if you over-tighten them. The gasket unlu needs to be snug between the two, there's not really that much pressure in the pipe.

For the air filter warning switch, the hose coming from the side where the wiring harness plug goes in goes to the downstream side (in the output pipe) and the side facing the engine goes to the flat part of the lid.
Thank you very much!


I would get rid of those nasty screw clamps and use genuine spring clamps. If the hose leaks with the original clamp, the hose and/or pipe need replacing.
Slowly replacing the cheapo clamps the PO used as I go, everything I’ve put back on has used the original Toyota clamps
 
“All that’s left to do is install the new radiator” turned out to be tempting fate, that was a complete pain in the ass.

The aftermarket radiator I got needed a bit of modification to fit - part of its frame was catching on the ends of the bolts which fasten the radiator bracket to the body. Solved this with a bit of nerve-wracking hacksaw work

Second problem was that somebody had swapped out the top mounting bolts for shorter ones and used skinnier bushes, so my new bushes wouldn’t compress enough for the nut to bite. Even though the old bushes were pretty average, I just reused them. To swap the bolts out I’d need to remove the AC condenser and the fasters on that are so rusty that I’m leaving that job until I do an AC system refresh before summer

Third problem was that the welded nuts on the radiator for the fan shroud are the same on both sides, whereas the holes in the fan shroud are offset on one side. This was a quick and easy fix with a drill

And after all that, it’s in!

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Battery is charging overnight and then tomorrow it’s time to fire her up
 
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