12HT-swapped 1988 HJ60 in Melbourne

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Glad you got the wiring sorted, satisfying fix! Unfortunately, I think you are about to make a nasty discovery under the scuttle. At least your AC system isn't charged, so it should be fairly easy to remove the evaporator and blower motor and have a look up at the air intake where they very commonly rot out.
 
I pulled the access covers off the cowl a couple of weeks ago and cleaned it out the best I could. From what I could see there was nothing worse than a few leaves and a bit of surface rust. However, I DIDN'T pull the wiper motor which is on the left-most of the three cowl openings, so it is very possible there's something nasty hiding behind there. When I get the chance it's gonna be fender off, wiper motor and linkage out, assess the damage, rust treat and re-seal.

I've been wanting to sort out a better mesh/filter system for the air intake, so it'll be a good opportunity to do that at the same time.
 
Time for 15.4L of the good stuff

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I recently did this and tried to avoid airlocks. I filled a few litres in the radiator, then topped it up into the thermostat housing (with the thermostat removed) until I could see it starting to fill up. Then I filled through the heater hose (to fill the heater core) until the head started to fill up again. Then put the thermostat and housing together and filled the radiator until full. I still got some air through, probably from the turbo coolant lines, but had no airlock issues.
 
Going through everything in the 1986 3B/2H Maintenance Procedures document (is there one which covers the 12HT specifically?) and I'm not sure how to inspect the injection pump diaphragm oil. Is it simple procedure? What sort of oil should I be using?

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Going through everything in the 1986 3B/2H Maintenance Procedures document (is there one which covers the 12HT specifically?) and I'm not sure how to inspect the injection pump diaphragm oil. Is it simple procedure? What sort of oil should I be using?

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I believe this is the diaphragm for the Pneumatic Governor, your 12HT doesn't have one so don't need to do anything here.
 
You can drill and tap the exhaust manifold as close to the turbo and tap for the probe. On my 2012 Ram I had a dealer drill for me. For my build I had a blank made the bolts to my exhaust manifold and drilled and tapped it for the probe.
 
You can drill and tap the exhaust manifold as close to the turbo and tap for the probe. On my 2012 Ram I had a dealer drill for me. For my build I had a blank made the bolts to my exhaust manifold and drilled and tapped it for the probe.
Yea I know that but there's a fin that runs down the middle and I've seen some people install it on the left or right of the fin as it runs down to the flange:

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Can you drill on either side of that rib?
 
Making the commandment is the hardest part. I worried about getting chips in the manifold and wiping out the turbo. When I mounted mine on my newer Ram on my 40 I had flanges that were either already drilled and tapped or drill on the bench.
 
Yea it just seems like most people go to the right. I'm about to do mine and am trying to get as many reference photos as I can before commiting haha.
I went to the rear (cab side) of the rib, at a bit of an angle so the tap was more perpendicular to the surface of the manifold. Not sure if this is better or worse than going parallel to the rib, but the tip of the probe is positioned roughly in the middle of the exhaust stream. I did it while the turbo was off anyway, because I was also worried about chips. Used plenty of oil and vacuumed/wiped it out well before I re-installed the turbo.

Didn’t take any photos of the tip position inside the manifold unfortunately, sorry
 
I went to the rear (cab side) of the rib, at a bit of an angle so the tap was more perpendicular to the surface of the manifold. Not sure if this is better or worse than going parallel to the rib, but the tip of the probe is positioned roughly in the middle of the exhaust stream. I did it while the turbo was off anyway, because I was also worried about chips. Used plenty of oil and vacuumed/wiped it out well before I re-installed the turbo.

Didn’t take any photos of the tip position inside the manifold unfortunately, sorry

One of my really good friends has the same truck and he drilled and tapped his manifold without taking the turbo off and just used magnets and a vacuum to get everything out and hasn’t had any issues since, so I’m considering trying that, but I also don’t wanna get metal into the turbo
 
Just ordered some sway bar links from you guys because of this post, so you got yourself some instant good karma for helping another Mudder out 🫡
Thanks mate, appreciate the order - should leave this afternoon.
 
Changing my fuel filter for the first time, and also gonna do the mesh filter on the priming pump while I’m at it.
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I have what may be a stupid question: do I need to clamp the fuel hoses before I do this? I don’t really want to undo a bolt only to have diesel pour out everywhere
 
Do yourself a favour and ditch the OEM primer for one of these - 2H / 12HT - Fuel Pump Primer - Bosch - https://technicalsportscorner.com.au/products/2h-12ht-fuel-pump-primer-bosch

I've never clamped hoses off, just put an old ice cream container or something under where you're working to catch any fuel.
Is that upgrade as simple as screwing the old primer off and putting the Bosch one on? Nothing else you need to replace?

Perhaps more importantly, is at preventative maintenance upgrade, or one you do when your OEM primer fails?
 
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