100 Series Torsion Bar options (definitive table w/ part nos. and custom pre-order interest)

[LowDrag82]

Like @x8o8drifter said, without the AHC pressures, you're basically taking a stab in the dark but based on my experience, overweight (800+ lbs over stock) AHC systems will not be too happy with 25.4mm bars even if they're indexed.

For now I would index your bars by 1-2 splines and see if the ride improves (this assumes you don't have a way to measure the pressures). If you're planning to add weight in the near future, you may just want to wait so you're not removing and installing your torsion bars every two weeks...

The next shipment of 27mm bars are arriving next week so they will be here just in time for you. Long term once you add the weight I would advise you purchase a set of 27mm torsion bars if you plan to keep AHC.

FWIW I would highly recommend figuring out a way to track your pressures if you do plan to keep AHC. Makes everything more measurable and predictable.

Oh yeah two summers ago I followed yotaMDs guide on checking the pressures after the replaced the globes and everything was right on the money or with in 1-2, and was getting 16 (if I recall right) hash marks on the reservoir, maybe it was 13 - everything looked good pressure wise. I’m good with computers so getting tech stream setup was easy. I just don’t know much about trucks, and much less about the minutia of hydraulic / torsion suspensions. I am planning on keeping ahc but I’m also not planning on loading it up with a ton of weight. The main things are the steel bumper, maybe a rear tire carrier not sure yet, and the rear slide out drawers plus enough for me to camp for a few days.

It doesn’t look like the torsion bars have ever been re indexed. Do you have any resources that explains how these torsions bars work with the ahc system? My rear shocks are also weeping but it doesn’t looks terrible, however the ride is definitely rougher on passenger side after getting the ahc serviced.

 

[LowDrag82]

1. Useless without the pressures. Sounds like after the replaced the globes and put new fluid your front passenger pressure might be to low now. (IE: riding on just the spring/torsion) and you now need to crank it back down, but without those pressures, who the f*** knows.
And unless one of the height sensors brackets was broken or the front ones are off (very different lengths), its going to be correct. So its likely they didn't do anything.

2. Answer 1 first to see if doing them now vs later matters.
But I also had kinda the same question. No drawers but F/R bumpers, skids and sliders.
Getting his 27mms and the King AHC springs he sells.

But unless you can get something that can read the pressures, messing with the system at all is a crapshoot unless you KNOW the other person touching the AHC knows how the system works. And from what I've seen, most places don't. That includes Toyota/Lexus dealerships.
Best bet if you cant/wont do it yourself is to take it to a cruiser specialist.

100% those places can get the torsions and the springs swapped, but I'd be wary on having them "adjust" anything.

Some of the answers are in the post above to cruiserpatch, but I suspect they did do something in terms of adjusting at Lexus, because one of the issues was the truck was leaning towards the passenger side, and they leveled it back out. After that I tested the pressures and they all seemed right to me. Did they level the truck by cranking the torsion bar up which would have dropped the pressure too low? Was the answer this whole time that they should have re indexed the bar instead? I can call and get the records. They were enamored with the truck because I found a garage kept example, but you’re right - Who knows what goes on in the sausage factory.

 

[cruiserpatch]

Do you have any resources that explains how these torsions bars work with the ahc system? My rear shocks are also weeping but it doesn’t looks terrible, however the ride is definitely rougher on passenger side after getting the ahc serviced.

It's fairly simple- the hydraulics work up a certain pressure, then start to leak (as you're experiencing with your rear "shocks"). When the pressures are too high the ride quality suffers and fluid weeps out of the rams (shocks).

With more weight you need more spring to compensate, bringing the pressures back down within operating range.

You can add coil spacers, switch springs (or torsion bars), or index the bars- same as adjusting a coilover's pre-load on a strut style IFS.

 

[LowDrag82]

It's fairly simple- the hydraulics work up a certain pressure, then start to leak (as you're experiencing with your rear "shocks"). When the pressures are too high the ride quality suffers and fluid weeps out of the rams (shocks).

With more weight you need more spring to compensate, bringing the pressures back down within operating range.

You can add coil spacers, switch springs (or torsion bars), or index the bars- same as adjusting a coilover's pre-load on a strut style IFS.

That makes sense. Are the shocks drawing fluid from the AHC reservoir or do they have their own independent fluid?

I guess I need to take it to OTRAMM in central VA, because I don’t have the tools or knowledge on how to resolve this but they do!

 

[x8o8drifter]

That makes sense. Are the shocks drawing fluid from the AHC reservoir or do they have their own independent fluid?

I guess I need to take it to OTRAMM in central VA, because I don’t have the tools or knowledge on how to resolve this but they do!

If by "shocks" you mean the globes (since those are kind of our shocks on the AHC) then yep. Same system and same reservoir as the "rams" that lift/lower the truck from what I understand.

 

[cruiserpatch]

That makes sense. Are the shocks drawing fluid from the AHC reservoir or do they have their own independent fluid?

The “rams” are full of fluid and look like traditional shock absorbers but the globes, or DFCAs (damping force control actuators) are responsible for absorbing/controlling suspension movement.

The globes have membranes in them which separate nitrogen gas from the hydraulic fluid

 

[cruiserpatch]

Just split the table into two separate categories (one for UZJ100, one for everyone else - FZJ100, HDJ100, HDJ101)

How much interest is there in AHC+ torsion bars of 1210mm length (fits FZJ100, HDJ100, HDJ101 w/ AHC and extra weight)?

 

[TLEXAS]

Just split the table into two separate categories (one for UZJ100, one for everyone else - FZJ100, HDJ100, HDJ101)

How much interest is there in AHC+ torsion bars of 1210mm length (fits FZJ100, HDJ100, HDJ101 w/ AHC and extra weight)?

Good morning Patch
Am keen on the diesel version (1210mm) AHC version torsion bar set in 27mm when it is available. At 630,000km and with an ARB safari bar my OEM torsion bars are getting a little tired. OEM bar which are 25mm are no longer available from Toyota or other suppliers such as Amayama.
Would really appreciate you organising a group supply arrangement for us diesel folk keen to maintain a functional AHC system.

 

[LowDrag82]

The “rams” are full of fluid and look like traditional shock absorbers but the globes, or DFCAs (damping force control actuators) are responsible for absorbing/controlling suspension movement.

The globes have membranes in them which separate nitrogen gas from the hydraulic fluid

Well I’m definitely going to get with OTRAMM this summer about sorting this out and installing either new OEM or your 27mm bars so we can finally add the bumper and pull out drawers. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[x8o8drifter]

Bought the 27mm torsions and the Kings AHC+ springs last night.
Will post to my build thread pressures with the up-armoring and new TB/springs installed.

 

[cruiserpatch]

Bought the 27mm torsions and the Kings AHC+ springs last night.
Will post to my build thread pressures with the up-armoring and new TB/springs installed.

Please do!

The 27mm bars shipped today (to me) so they will be sent out to customers next week.

 

[Mrpizza]

Patch, on your site the 29.5mm bars are open for round 2, how many more sets do you need before making an order? I am looking at refreshing the entire suspension lat this year/next year and would like a beefier set of bars since I plan on doing a bumper, sliders, winch, etc.

 

[cruiserpatch]

Patch, on your site the 29.5mm bars are open for round 2, how many more sets do you need before making an order? I am looking at refreshing the entire suspension lat this year/next year and would like a beefier set of bars since I plan on doing a bumper, sliders, winch, etc.

Hey!

I actually had a customer return some 29.5mm bars that he did not use (they're unopened in the box).

I currently have the following in stock: (6.3.2026)

1x - 29.5mm bar sets
7x - 28.87mm "OEM reproduction" bar sets
4x - 27mm AHC+ bar sets

EDIT: to answer your question about pre-order minimums, I'll place another order when I have 1x orders for a set of bars. At the moment I haven't had any more interest in the 29.5mm bars so they're not on order yet.

 

[Scotty UZJ100]

Should I replace my T-bars if I can't achieve my desired ride height without cranking the preload to the point where the truck rides like a cover wagon?

 

[cruiserpatch]

Should I replace my T-bars if I can't achieve my desired ride height without cranking the preload to the point where the truck rides like a cover wagon?

New bars require less pre-load to achieve the same ride height as old bars with lots of pre-load.

The smaller the bar the better it will flex.
The newer the bar the stiffer/more springy it will be.

MMV but I'm currently running old OEM bars re-indexed by 3 splines if that tells you anything.
Not sure I answered your question other than by saying 'it's up to your preference.'

 

[maasa2002]

Hi
Thanks for everything.
Adding my 100s Fzj100. 100s with 1fzfe engine..
Torsion bar oem Toyota is L 48162-60080
R 48161-60080
Diameter is almost 29.51 -53
Length is as you mentioned 1210.

No ahc system... Almost everything is standard. But i wish it had been produced with spring coiled in front to give more options to lift.

 

[frawstme]

Am I understanding that a 2000 MY 100 series LC (no AHC) with less than factory weight is going to be shooting for the most narrow torsion bars possible? And it would be 1160mm length for JDM as well?

And regardless of which kinds of torsion bars are in the car, the range of lift is the same right?

edit: my goal is 2-2.5" lift while maintaining the best ride possible

 

[x8o8drifter]

Am I understanding that a 2000 MY 100 series LC (no AHC) with less than factory weight is going to be shooting for the most narrow torsion bars possible? And it would be 1160mm length for JDM as well?

And regardless of which kinds of torsion bars are in the car, the range of lift is the same right?

edit: my goal is 2-2.5" lift while maintaining the best ride possible

(If someone reads this in the future remember this is for a NON-ACH Truck)

1. How are you getting less than OEM weight.
Removing things because off road only?
How much weight?

2. Not really. The thickness of the bar is basically its spring rate. Thicker = Higher rate.
For ease of explaining... If the truck weight doesn't change, a thinner bar will make it ride lower and a thicker one higher. (Before even touching the bolt at the back)
So unless you are removing the amount of weight the engine adds you are not going thinner than the stock bar.

But if removing weight and not adding like normal you shouldn't need to go much thicker than the OEM one.
IDK enough about how much re-indexing adds to make a suggestion about that.

At least this is the way I understand it.

 

[frawstme]

(If someone reads this in the future remember this is for a NON-ACH Truck)

1. How are you getting less than OEM weight.
Removing things because off road only?
How much weight?

2. Not really. The thickness of the bar is basically its spring rate. Thicker = Higher rate.
For ease of explaining... If the truck weight doesn't change, a thinner bar will make it ride lower and a thicker one higher. (Before even touching the bolt at the back)
So unless you are removing the amount of weight the engine adds you are not going thinner than the stock bar.

But if removing weight and not adding like normal you shouldn't need to go much thicker than the OEM one.
IDK enough about how much re-indexing adds to make a suggestion about that.

At least this is the way I understand it.

I did more research after asking that question, and my truck is lighter weight but apparently not enough to matter. I just have a few things removed: the spare tire, the swing out tire mount, the factory roof rails, the rear seats. Probably <150pds total.

It seems like with torsion bars, theres some level of balance.. I read through a bunch of forum posts here and what im gathering is that thin torsion bars cranked all the way up is a worse ride than very thick torsion bars that aren't cranked up much.

For me to get 2-2.5" lift (and still have a halfway decent ride quality) I think I need to get bars that are a little thicker than OEM to where I don't have to them maxed out for that ride height, but not too thick?

I'm still not really understanding reindexing- I need to look at the mechinism myself because reading about it is confusing

That's honestly just me putting together peices though, if I'm wrong please let me know . I haven't picked any bars yet, only my rear springs. I definitely want to make sure that I get the right ones

edit:
I still don't know what length my torsion bars are on JDM spec gas...do i have to remove them to measure?

editedit:
They are the same, part numbers match. @cruiserpatch I believe your website listing has the wrong part number listed for AHC RH

 

[cruiserpatch]

Hi
Thanks for everything.
Adding my 100s Fzj100. 100s with 1fzfe engine..
Torsion bar oem Toyota is L 48162-60080
R 48161-60080
Diameter is almost 29.51 -53
Length is as you mentioned 1210.

Thank you for the information!

I've updated the tables