100 Series LX470 8HP swap

[obe12]

“Definitely options for the 1FZ as Mike helped to make the adapters. The N63(v8) adapter is 45mm vs 20mm for the UZ adapter. If you go with a ram transmission as that’s more plentiful in the US it’s still about 45mm for the adapter to the engine but the transfer case adapter is longer at I believe 147mm.”

Papa Wickey,

I am confused, my old age forgive me…

1FZ vrs UZ adapters. I think I understand the engine to BMW 1FZ is thicker than the UZ? Do I have that right?

I know the flywheel really set back deep in the bell housing in my LC80 1Fz compared to my 100 UZ.

My 80 has a longer transfer case over all length front case mounting to rear flange too. This is to accommodate the VC viscus coupler.

Please correct me if I am off base,
Using the dodge trans 70-75 series from the ram pickup like Mike I believe did, domiworks said a 1Fz with that two piece transfer case adapter, makes my transfer case set back 2.859 inches compared to my A442 lengths…

Adapter kit is 45mm

Transmission is 616mm

Transfer Case adapter is 126mm,

30.984 inches total compared to my A442 1FZ to Transfer case is 28.125 inches

I don’t have the room to move my transfer case back that far using a Dodge 8HP.

Now you guys come along and using BMW transmissions, the transfer case adapter is thinner !
TrailBornRunner measured the BMW to adapter face as 27.625 dang close but the 1Fz engine adapter isn’t 20 mm is it it’s thicker 45 mm for it. 1.77 inches

27.625 plus 1.77 =29.395 - 28.125 old a442 leaves 1.27 inches on it set back on my lc80 better that the Dodge transmission. My 80 transfer case is longer, I wonder it ifs possible to move the input from the 80 to the 100 transfer case like I did doing my under-drive gear swap , changes the input to an 80 series with a pressed gear. If I remember correctly to install in the the 100 case this would shorten my overall length by 1-2 inches using the non VC coupler transfer case. I have to crawl underneath the trucks and measure the 100 to the 80 transfer case.


I still have my old 100 input shaft and gear set that had to be removed. I have to review pics and old gears to refresh me memory.




Trailbornrunnner measured his A343 at 27 3/16 - 27.1875

UZ “20 mm” .787 plus 27.625 BMW with Adapter is 28.412 overall length
1.225 inches setback on my 100 it appears.

Please check me and see it I am on target. Both of you are facing that challenge… me too if I undertake it. To used the New Thinner adapter to BMW transmission to transfer case it required an input shaft swap. The 100 I think the gear is all made together where as the 80 it’s two peace’s.

Here is the Transfer case from an 80.. zoom in on input and see a snap ring … pressed on gear.

Second pic is the 100 with new input shaft and gear has that snap ring too, last pic is the 100 in stock form no snap ring gear and shaft made together.

 

[obe12]

Oops pic didn’t load

100 input gear stock form …

 

[Papa Wickey]

“Definitely options for the 1FZ as Mike helped to make the adapters. The N63(v8) adapter is 45mm vs 20mm for the UZ adapter. If you go with a ram transmission as that’s more plentiful in the US it’s still about 45mm for the adapter to the engine but the transfer case adapter is longer at I believe 147mm.”

Papa Wickey,

I am confused, my old age forgive me…

1FZ vrs UZ adapters. I think I understand the engine to BMW 1FZ is thicker than the UZ? Do I have that right?

I know the flywheel really set back deep in the bell housing in my LC80 1Fz compared to my 100 UZ.

My 80 has a longer transfer case over all length front case mounting to rear flange too. This is to accommodate the VC viscus coupler.

Please correct me if I am off base,
Using the dodge trans 70-75 series from the ram pickup like Mike I believe did, domiworks said a 1Fz with that two piece transfer case adapter, makes my transfer case set back 2.859 inches compared to my A442 lengths…


30.984 inches total compared to my A442 1FZ to Transfer case is 28.125 inches

I don’t have the room to move my transfer case back that far using a Dodge 8HP.

Now you guys come along and using BMW transmissions, the transfer case adapter is thinner !
TrailBornRunner measured the BMW to adapter face as 27.625 dang close but the 1Fz engine adapter isn’t 20 mm is it it’s thicker 45 mm for it. 1.77 inches

27.625 plus 1.77 =29.395 - 28.125 old a442 leaves 1.27 inches on it set back on my lc80 better that the Dodge transmission. My 80 transfer case is longer, I wonder it ifs possible to move the input from the 80 to the 100 transfer case like I did doing my under-drive gear swap , changes the input to an 80 series with a pressed gear. If I remember correctly to install in the the 100 case this would shorten my overall length by 1-2 inches using the non VC coupler transfer case. I have to crawl underneath the trucks and measure the 100 to the 80 transfer case.


I still have my old 100 input shaft and gear set that had to be removed. I have to review pics and old gears to refresh me memory.




Trailbornrunnner measured his A343 at 27 3/16 - 27.1875

UZ “20 mm” .787 plus 27.625 BMW with Adapter is 28.412 overall length
1.225 inches setback on my 100 it appears.

Please check me and see it I am on target. Both of you are facing that challenge… me too if I undertake it. To used the New Thinner adapter to BMW transmission to transfer case it required an input shaft swap. The 100 I think the gear is all made together where as the 80 it’s two peace’s.

Here is the Transfer case from an 80.. zoom in on input and see a snap ring … pressed on gear.

Second pic is the 100 with new input shaft and gear has that snap ring too, last pic is the 100 in stock form no snap ring gear and shaft made together.

That is correct. the UZ adapters for BMW (medium bellhousing V8/small bellhousing I6) and Dodge V8 are 20mm vs the 1FZ adapters are all 45mm.

The transfer case adapters are the "same" for the HF2A and HF2AV the in that they include a replacement input axle and TC adapter plate difference being the BMW adapter is thinner at 37mm and the Dodge at 127mm. The spline count between the BMW and Dodge adapters are different though, I think the only Dodge one that matches BMW is the 8HP90 from the demon.

I believe Mike was able to run the dodge trans and adapters and didn't need to fiddle with the trans crossmember as much but he did have to get his front driveshaft cut shorter.

With regard to swapping the 80 input axle (from the domiworks kit) into the 100 case I don't have that answer on if it will work out. I believe @TrailBornRunner did a TC high range underdrive that included a modified idler gear to have the 80 style input axle work.

I would love to see if it does indeed work because then I could just open up the 3F/A440 case I have and pull the high range gear and install it into my 100 case. Then I wouldn't have to wait for the 91-92 rebuild kit to be back in stock.

 

[obe12]

That is correct. the UZ adapters for BMW (medium bellhousing V8/small bellhousing I6) and Dodge V8 are 20mm vs the 1FZ adapters are all 45mm.

The transfer case adapters are the "same" for the HF2A and HF2AV the in that they include a replacement input axle and TC adapter plate difference being the BMW adapter is thinner at 37mm and the Dodge at 127mm. The spline count between the BMW and Dodge adapters are different though, I think the only Dodge one that matches BMW is the 8HP90 from the demon.

I believe Mike was able to run the dodge trans and adapters and didn't need to fiddle with the trans crossmember as much but he did have to get his front driveshaft cut shorter.

With regard to swapping the 80 input axle (from the domiworks kit) into the 100 case I don't have that answer on if it will work out. I believe @TrailBornRunner did a TC high range underdrive that included a modified idler gear to have the 80 style input axle work.

I would love to see if it does indeed work because then I could just open up the 3F/A440 case I have and pull the high range gear and install it into my 100 case. Then I wouldn't have to wait for the 91-92 rebuild kit to be back in stock.

I know for a fact the 80 input shaft will fit the 100 case because Like Trailbornrunner I have a 80 input shaft and underdrive gear pressed on the shaft for my underdrive in my 100.

It’s 10% under and low crawl low and part time 4x2 all in my 100 transfer case now.

I feel confident they will interchange…

If I go there 8HP in my 80, I would need a Non VC case or a 100 and swap shafts / input gear too.
I can measure my 100 diameter gear from my older 100 transfer case if you like
To take apart the 440. Compare notes … tooth counts and diameter of gear

If that will help I have the old gear set

 

[obe12]

I know for a fact the 80 input shaft will fit the 100 case because Like Trailbornrunner I have a 80 input shaft and underdrive gear pressed on the shaft for my underdrive in my 100.

It’s 10% under and low crawl low and part time 4x2 all in my 100 transfer case now.

I feel confident they will interchange…

If I go there 8HP in my 80, I would need a Non VC case or a 100 and swap shafts / input gear too.
I can measure my 100 diameter gear from my older 100 transfer case if you like
To take apart the 440. Compare notes … tooth counts and diameter of gear

If that will help I have the old gear set

To understand you have an older 440 transmission/ transfer case from a FJ80 91-92 year only transfer case … hum that might be a problem.

Easy check see if the underdrive gears work across that year 91-92 … I can’t remember forgive me if I had to change my idler gear… to drive hi range I don’t think so, I change the low gear when shift to low to a smaller gear driving the center differential

The 10% under I beleive was the Dif side and input side … not the center idler…

If the underdrive gear set works into the 91-92 year transfer case I feel the gear set should press on your new input shaft you call “Axle” and move into the 100 year box.

That’s a good bet

 

[obe12]

That is correct. the UZ adapters for BMW (medium bellhousing V8/small bellhousing I6) and Dodge V8 are 20mm vs the 1FZ adapters are all 45mm.

The transfer case adapters are the "same" for the HF2A and HF2AV the in that they include a replacement input axle and TC adapter plate difference being the BMW adapter is thinner at 37mm and the Dodge at 127mm. The spline count between the BMW and Dodge adapters are different though, I think the only Dodge one that matches BMW is the 8HP90 from the demon.

I believe Mike was able to run the dodge trans and adapters and didn't need to fiddle with the trans crossmember as much but he did have to get his front driveshaft cut shorter.

With regard to swapping the 80 input axle (from the domiworks kit) into the 100 case I don't have that answer on if it will work out. I believe @TrailBornRunner did a TC high range underdrive that included a modified idler gear to have the 80 style input axle work.

I would love to see if it does indeed work because then I could just open up the 3F/A440 case I have and pull the high range gear and install it into my 100 case. Then I wouldn't have to wait for the 91-92 rebuild kit to be back in stock.

What I am reading like the 10% under fits 90-98 spec 80 series

98-2007 100 shows the idler gear and claim diferant now

My truck back in 2023 had to buy a 80 input shaft and bearing to make it all work. Now they show an all together shaft gear one peace….

For the 100.

Worth a call to them… 90 up stuff should interchange
Mostly

Anyway hope it works… I can measure stock gears like I hear if needed.

Tex

 

[Papa Wickey]

To understand you have an older 440 transmission/ transfer case from a FJ80 91-92 year only transfer case … hum that might be a problem.

Easy check see if the underdrive gears work across that year 91-92 … I can’t remember forgive me if I had to change my idler gear… to drive hi range I don’t think so, I change the low gear when shift to low to a smaller gear driving the center differential

The 10% under I beleive was the Dif side and input side … not the center idler…

If the underdrive gear set works into the 91-92 year transfer case I feel the gear set should press on your new input shaft you call “Axle” and move into the 100 year box.

That’s a good bet

I just got a 91-92 case as they were the same length as the 100 series case with the internals being more or less the same, at least with the hunting around I did on partsouq. The underdrive gear set (sumo) says it fits 80/100 series so I see no reason to believe it would be different between the viscous and non viscous 80 cases. I don't know if where the bearing sits on the case is similar enough across the 80 and 100. I have seen different bearing/seal kits across the 80 HF2A, HF2AV, and 100 HF2A but I think it could be similar enough for the purposes of swapping the shaft to accept the ZF output.

The 3F HF2A was cheaper than trying to get a 2UZ HF2A. I wanted the potential to drop the current case and trans as one unit after disconnecting the driveshafts and then install the zf transmission with the rebuilt case and then just swap over my CDL actuator and VSS.

 

[obe12]

I just got a 91-92 case as they were the same length as the 100 series case with the internals being more or less the same, at least with the hunting around I did on partsouq. The underdrive gear set (sumo) says it fits 80/100 series so I see no reason to believe it would be different between the viscous and non viscous 80 cases. I don't know if where the bearing sits on the case is similar enough across the 80 and 100. I have seen different bearing/seal kits across the 80 HF2A, HF2AV, and 100 HF2A but I think it could be similar enough for the purposes of swapping the shaft to accept the ZF output.

The 3F HF2A was cheaper than trying to get a 2UZ HF2A. I wanted the potential to drop the current case and trans as one unit after disconnecting the driveshafts and then install the zf transmission with the rebuilt case and then just swap over my CDL actuator and VSS.

Depending on mileage … check center dif spider gears and cross shaft. As miles pile on these wear.

Australia guys have a Torsen Center diff and would be much stronger then a center open dif.

Yes shorter , how much shorter is it ?

 

[Papa Wickey]

Depending on mileage … check center dif spider gears and cross shaft. As miles pile on these wear.

Australia guys have a Torsen Center diff and would be much stronger then a center open dif.

Yes shorter , how much shorter is it ?

not a super precise measurement but it looks to be about 12 1/4” maybe 311mm

That torsen center diff is actually something I was looking at as an alternative to a PTO kit. My 2000 LX case has 180k miles on it and this case has about 224k

 

[obe12]

not a super precise measurement but it looks to be about 12 1/4” maybe 311mm

That torsen center diff is actually something I was looking at as an alternative to a PTO kit. My 2000 LX case has 180k miles on it and this case has about 224k

View attachment 4103068

Appreciate it! My 100 has full skid plates from front core support past rear shaft yoke nearly to my gas tank. That would be hard to measure that on my 100 as it is.

 

[Papa Wickey]

Appreciate it! My 100 has full skid plates from front core support past rear shaft yoke nearly to my gas tank. That would be hard to measure that on my 100 as it is.

Added benefits of having a case and transmission seperate of the current powertrain. I can’t really afford to have any real downtime on my truck so this was the avenue I decided to try

 

[obe12]

not a super precise measurement but it looks to be about 12 1/4” maybe 311mm

That torsen center diff is actually something I was looking at as an alternative to a PTO kit. My 2000 LX case has 180k miles on it and this case has about 224k

View attachment 4103068

Added benefits of having a case and transmission seperate of the current powertrain. I can’t really afford to have any real downtime on my truck so this was the avenue I decided to try

Papa W

I see you dealth with a shop in Florida for your adapter and not DomniWorks directly. Is there a reason like better pricing ect ?

The MaxxECU, the Turbolamik , and one other that controls the BMW TCU that emulated the car truck it came out of , do you remember perhaps that solution?


Turbolamik is a huge cost to swallow … I did research it interfaces with Haltech like a IO port expander and has no directional support. Support Flate shift and shared engine load data. At a price tho! The software on the Turbolamik has slip monitering and learns … it’s pretty advanced.

Where did you get your mind me asking ?

 

[obe12]

Papa W

I see you dealth with a shop in Florida for your adapter and not DomniWorks directly. Is there a reason like better pricing ect ?

The MaxxECU, the Turbolamik , and one other that controls the BMW TCU that emulated the car truck it came out of , do you remember perhaps that solution?


Turbolamik is a huge cost to swallow … I did research it interfaces with Haltech like a IO port expander and has no directional support. Support Flate shift and shared engine load data. At a price tho! The software on the Turbolamik has slip monitering and learns … it’s pretty advanced.

Where did you get your mind me asking ?

I kinda excited I can swap transfer cases and take up all or most of that 1.7 inch’s and not have to modify my Long range Gas tank! It’s nice 250 miles in and have 45% fuel left. And 5 gals reserve when the gauge reads Zero!

 

[Papa Wickey]

Papa W

I see you dealth with a shop in Florida for your adapter and not DomniWorks directly. Is there a reason like better pricing ect ?

The MaxxECU, the Turbolamik , and one other that controls the BMW TCU that emulated the car truck it came out of , do you remember perhaps that solution?


Turbolamik is a huge cost to swallow … I did research it interfaces with Haltech like a IO port expander and has no directional support. Support Flate shift and shared engine load data. At a price tho! The software on the Turbolamik has slip monitering and learns … it’s pretty advanced.

Where did you get your mind me asking ?

I haven't gotten the turbolamik just yet. I'm slowly piecing together all the bits.

I ordered the transfer case and bell housing adapter so I could "avoid" tariff fees by buying through DriftHQ was basically me just using them as a middle man. They had a 5% discount code at the time too so that helped a little bit.

All in I am waiting on:

• the bell housing adapter to ship
• restock transfer case bearing/seal kit
• possibly order the PDI torsen center diff spool?
• rebuild transfer case
• get pan/filter kit for trans
• hardwire mechatronics (I have the PCB right now but I'm leaning towards cutting it all out and using raychem oil resistant wire
  
• try to build a patch harness and use oem harness to sensors to feed turbolamik prior to signals getting to ECM
• buy turbolamik and make sure everything works prior to dropping trans
• possibly modify trans/case cross member
• possibly modify driveshafts

It's a big project and costly but eh. I'm having fun with it. I still have other preventative/corrective maintenance I need to do like swapping out my UCAs for some Dobinsons arms (mostly because all my ball joints were thrashed)
Steering rack was leaking from the inner tie rods so I'm just going to replace EVERYTHING.
Also my heater T's are weeping a bit.

I got a good amount of stuff going on but I'm just trying to document everything on youtube. The goal is having the 8 speed in and driving before Warped Orlando in November so that way I can chill out for the remainder of the year.

 

[obe12]

I haven't gotten the turbolamik just yet. I'm slowly piecing together all the bits.

I ordered the transfer case and bell housing adapter so I could "avoid" tariff fees by buying through DriftHQ was basically me just using them as a middle man. They had a 5% discount code at the time too so that helped a little bit.

All in I am waiting on:

• the bell housing adapter to ship
• restock transfer case bearing/seal kit
• possibly order the PDI torsen center diff spool?
• rebuild transfer case
• get pan/filter kit for trans
• hardwire mechatronics (I have the PCB right now but I'm leaning towards cutting it all out and using raychem oil resistant wire View attachment 4103203
• try to build a patch harness and use oem harness to sensors to feed turbolamik prior to signals getting to ECM
• buy turbolamik and make sure everything works prior to dropping trans
• possibly modify trans/case cross member
• possibly modify driveshafts

It's a big project and costly but eh. I'm having fun with it. I still have other preventative/corrective maintenance I need to do like swapping out my UCAs for some Dobinsons arms (mostly because all my ball joints were thrashed)
Steering rack was leaking from the inner tie rods so I'm just going to replace EVERYTHING.
Also my heater T's are weeping a bit.

I got a good amount of stuff going on but I'm just trying to document everything on youtube. The goal is having the 8 speed in and driving before Warped Orlando in November so that way I can chill out for the remainder of the year.

Yes, I lot to do grocery list.

Drive lines oh my gosh, in my in my area DFW the drive line shops want to ditch yota metic and push spicer. The yota shaft u joints are pretty tough. I have Used oe for years without issues. I did a dual case on a taco … two peice rear shaft, shorten and front lengthen, easy right! Nope

They barrel shaped drive line neck down at the u joint flange and that created the problem. Called called called went to 5 shops all nope would not touch them, had to take out the two piece install spicer new. Well crap…

Contacted Northwest Fab the seller of the crawl box and he recommend a couple of shops. The guy at the Cali shop said he could machine the tube and yokes to match, for around 1200.00 and retube both och ! That took a while, sent him The shafts and over nighted cashiers check, “should have been my first clue something not good” it took weeks to get these shafts completed and guy just wouldn’t return calls. I contacted Northwest Fab to contact this guy on my behalf and got the shafts done and called to ship this back.

On another note : they were done well. Zero vibrations!

I had nightmares over the yota drivelines and dread going down that again with my shafts! They don’t look like barrel neck down shafts tho.

Any place or recommendation for Toyota drive line work I am all ears!

 

[obe12]

Papa W.

If you get a lead on the Torsen Center diff for the Lc80 transfer case I am interested in one for myself.

Turbolamik TCU I read forgive me some have had issues soldering the PCB in and keeping it trouble free, aka you are considering the wires… this person mention have his coated after the connections were made. I saw this an area of concern for me.

Sharing engine data digital is my preferred method if it’s possible. Not that it can’t be done another way.

You guy are inspiring me to take the plunge! Appreciate the information you have provided and leads on the BMW trans ..

 

[Papa Wickey]

Wiring update?

I'm thinking I might liquidate some other stuff for the swap and had been looking into possibly making a patch harness but found out apparently the 2001 IS300 harness extension from boomslang will fit my 2000 ECM. That way I have a way to not cut into the factory harness to get the RPM/TPS signals. I will still need to add a bosche MAP sensor as well.

 

[obe12]

Wiring update?

I'm thinking I might liquidate some other stuff for the swap and had been looking into possibly making a patch harness but found out apparently the 2001 IS300 harness extension from boomslang will fit my 2000 ECM. That way I have a way to not cut into the factory harness to get the RPM/TPS signals. I will still need to add a bosche MAP sensor as well.

Fantastic …

I was inquiring with HD Auto just last last night about a 2500 Elite , around 4 this morning I get up early 2:30 am for work but off today studying the ECU pins and connections. Full stand alone has some hurdles to it.

Studied Haltechs cruise and my wiring will work with Haltech , there is a temp value sent to my automatic climate control … I think it keeps the fan from blowing for heat until the temp comes up. What exactly it does , on off, 5 volt up down, ground signal not sure. That would need to be ID to not box your self in a corner. Haltech is will control Yota trans natively but needs a PRNDl converter box to know what gear it’s commanding. Have one in my 80 now .

Stuff like purge again Haltech can deal with.

No base map tho… or configuration so work to make it all work together.

The other is Piggy back… with wideband feedback and keep trans right now on stock ECU. Calibration of sensors via OBD2 would be easy …
Piggy back can create issues like on temps sensors ect.

Could swap to MAP / TPS for load and fuel load with Wideband feedback to Haltech and clean up my mixture.

750 elite Haltech no idle stepper motor control and knock sensor feedback. But be a good piggy back unit.

These ECUs are OMG high… crazy

Having shift blimp for the 8HP is the best and canbus info shared. But 3 ECUs to run everything omg will or can it work!

 

[Scotty UZJ100]

Fantastic …

I was inquiring with HD Auto just last last night about a 2500 Elite , around 4 this morning I get up early 2:30 am for work but off today studying the ECU pins and connections. Full stand alone has some hurdles to it.

Studied Haltechs cruise and my wiring will work with Haltech , there is a temp value sent to my automatic climate control … I think it keeps the fan from blowing for heat until the temp comes up. What exactly it does , on off, 5 volt up down, ground signal not sure. That would need to be ID to not box your self in a corner. Haltech is will control Yota trans natively but needs a PRNDl converter box to know what gear it’s commanding. Have one in my 80 now .

Stuff like purge again Haltech can deal with.

No base map tho… or configuration so work to make it all work together.

The other is Piggy back… with wideband feedback and keep trans right now on stock ECU. Calibration of sensors via OBD2 would be easy …
Piggy back can create issues like on temps sensors ect.

Could swap to MAP / TPS for load and fuel load with Wideband feedback to Haltech and clean up my mixture.

750 elite Haltech no idle stepper motor control and knock sensor feedback. But be a good piggy back unit.

These ECUs are OMG high… crazy

Having shift blimp for the 8HP is the best and canbus info shared. But 3 ECUs to run everything omg will or can it work!

Why haltech and not Maxx. If you're adding an ECU why not get one that can control both the engine and transmission?

 

[Papa Wickey]

Why haltech and not Maxx. If you're adding an ECU why not get one that can control both the engine and transmission?

+1 for Maxx IMO, if/when I try to do a blower I'm planning on doing maxx to pass can data and the pro has 22 analog/10 digital inputs and like 30 general purpose outputs. Plenty for doing a supercharger and a 8hp70 if you haven't picked up a trans yet