100 Series LX470 8HP swap

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My brother and I both have an LX. I have the five-speed ('03), and he has the four-speed ('99), and it is a world of difference.
I can't imagine how much smoother an 8sp trans is.
Sub'd
 
Nice to have a video to go off of, I think I'll be driving my 100 for the last time with the 4 speed tomorrow, need to get my tcu out to get flashed like ASAP before its not free anymore. Sidenote, I think I'm going to get the PPE aluminum deep pan, its not super deep like the B&M pan
 
Nice to have a video to go off of, I think I'll be driving my 100 for the last time with the 4 speed tomorrow, need to get my tcu out to get flashed like ASAP before its not free anymore. Sidenote, I think I'm going to get the PPE aluminum deep pan, its not super deep like the B&M pan
It’s not free? Damn, I wonder how much it’ll cost for flashing. One thing I would call out when removing the pan and valve body is you may want to hang onto the park release lever on the outside of the case. It made a loud clack when I pulled the valve body out. If you have an extra set of hands it most likely would be helpful. Probably going to need to fiddle with the release to get it back in as well.

I want to get the HPR billet pan that also has the integrated thermostat because the oil cooler lines come out by the bell housing instead of on the side of the transmission, but I’m not sure if I’m going to have to buy it from Sweden and pay tariffs. I don’t know if I should make a video on opening up the TCU since there’s already a bunch out there.
 
@Papa Wickey Unfortunately it's about $200 to send the tcu or rent the flash tool. Part of buying the maxxecu from SLG was that it's included with the purchase, not sure how long that offer last. The problem I had with the HPR thermostat pan (other than the price) was that it circulates the oil back into the trans to build heat, which I believe would take forever in cold snowy climates. So I'm going to tie it into the radiator then a thermostat (with external spin on filter) to a front mount cooler, kind of like the OEM setup on these trans.
 
@Papa Wickey Unfortunately it's about $200 to send the tcu or rent the flash tool. Part of buying the maxxecu from SLG was that it's included with the purchase, not sure how long that offer last. The problem I had with the HPR thermostat pan (other than the price) was that it circulates the oil back into the trans to build heat, which I believe would take forever in cold snowy climates. So I'm going to tie it into the radiator then a thermostat (with external spin on filter) to a front mount cooler, kind of like the OEM setup on these trans.
The only thing about running it into the radiator is I’m worried about fluid contamination between the Toyota ATF and the ZF lifeguard fluid I mean, potentially wouldn’t really be that much of an issue if you got a new radiator, but also I suppose you could flush the transmission part of the radiator with the ZF fluid or maybe the liquid Moli fluid?

I do like the idea of running it into the radiator since it will warm up much quicker and you want to try and have it be I think 80°C is the optimal temperature for these transmissions?
I am curious to see the way you have that plumbed out. I might follow that idea.
 
Finished the partial teardown/inspection of the transmission. Everything seems pretty good, trans fluid doesn't smell burnt. Didn't break anything that I can't get a replacement for ($20 TCU connector sleeve).
For the future if you're trying to do this You need some picks, 8mm/10mm hex, T40 and T30? (I used a T27) to get the pan off and valve body out. The oil pan/drain plug is plastic and the transmission filter is integrated to the pan, or it seems that way when I pulled it.
Don't do what I did and pull all the big T40s before you remove the TCU connector sleeve, pull the start stop tube, then the sleeve before you move onto unbolting the valve body.
Once you get the valve body off need to get a solenoid at the end of the valve body off (just the connector) and another plug on the mechatronics side of the TCU, you can use a 90 degree pick to get the connectors off and then unclip the connectors for the start stop and aforementioned connections.
From there the valve body separates from the TCU with 5/6 long T30s and then you can work it off.

I ordered the turbolamik PCB/cover so waiting on those. Might try to finish up some other corrective/preventative stuff in the mean time while I'm waiting on that. Still need a T case refresh kit but trying to avoid pulling that apart until I get the adapter from domiworks via driftHQ.

Video is rendering and will be linked here shortly I hope
If you're looking for things to do to the 8HP a sonnax zip kit is a great way remove a failure point inside your transmission.
 
The only thing about running it into the radiator is I’m worried about fluid contamination between the Toyota ATF and the ZF lifeguard fluid I mean, potentially wouldn’t really be that much of an issue if you got a new radiator, but also I suppose you could flush the transmission part of the radiator with the ZF fluid or maybe the liquid Moli fluid?

I do like the idea of running it into the radiator since it will warm up much quicker and you want to try and have it be I think 80°C is the optimal temperature for these transmissions?
I am curious to see the way you have that plumbed out. I might follow that idea.
Im going to be running the Redline D6 ATF, which Redline advertises as compatible with Toyota WS and ZF Lifeguard, so not much concern there.

I'll see if I can lay out all the parts on the floor and show somewhat of a diagram. Don't have the thermostat or the pan yet, should be ordering those in the next month, they're the last things I need for the swap.
 
Im going to be running the Redline D6 ATF, which Redline advertises as compatible with Toyota WS and ZF Lifeguard, so not much concern there.

I'll see if I can lay out all the parts on the floor and show somewhat of a diagram. Don't have the thermostat or the pan yet, should be ordering those in the next month, they're the last things I need for the swap.
Following up to see if you have figured out the routing from the trans to the rad and then thermostat to cooler. Just ordered my bellhousing adapter to get that wait started and also hit up Daniel at domiworks to ask about the lead time for the tcase adapter as well as any updates on the 100 series adapter.
 
Following up to see if you have figured out the routing from the trans to the rad and then thermostat to cooler. Just ordered my bellhousing adapter to get that wait started and also hit up Daniel at domiworks to ask about the lead time for the tcase adapter as well as any updates on the 100 series adapter.
I ended up rethinking the whole idea going through the radiator with what limited room I have in the engine bay due to link mounts. New idea is utilizing the old rear heater lines to a liquid to liquid cooler, radiator will used for my power steering system. Parts have been ordered, should see them in a week or two, side note; it's been 2 months since I ordered my engine adapter which blows, it's the last thing I'm waiting on to install the 8hp, pulling the A343 this weekend
 
I ended up rethinking the whole idea going through the radiator with what limited room I have in the engine bay due to link mounts. New idea is utilizing the old rear heater lines to a liquid to liquid cooler, radiator will used for my power steering system. Parts have been ordered, should see them in a week or two, side note; it's been 2 months since I ordered my engine adapter which blows, it's the last thing I'm waiting on to install the 8hp, pulling the A343 this weekend
Thats unfortunate to hear on the adapter, I just hit up driftHQ and they said a couple weeks for the UZ adapter and I should have the tcase adapter in the next 2 weeks. Daniel said the UZ to N63 adapter is on backorder so it will take a little bit longer.
Am I crazy to think about using qd fittings for the trans/thermostat? It could add some decent cost but could also make maintenance a tad easier.
 
Thats unfortunate to hear on the adapter, I just hit up driftHQ and they said a couple weeks for the UZ adapter and I should have the tcase adapter in the next 2 weeks. Daniel said the UZ to N63 adapter is on backorder so it will take a little bit longer.
Am I crazy to think about using qd fittings for the trans/thermostat? It could add some decent cost but could also make maintenance a tad easier.
Did they tell you how long on that backorder? The company I ordered through keep telling me it's on the way... now I see why. Im using AN fittings for everything, theyre quick enough for me, I couldn't justify QDs yet.
 
After hearing back from Daniel at Domiworks, sounds like my adapter is on that same backorder, says he missed it initially when the order was submitted, wasn't till a few weeks ago when I emailed the retailer about it, they emailed him, that he was aware of the order. He said they should be about 2-3 weeks till they're finished, which after a week to get here to the states, and maybe another week to get to me, only leaves me less than 2 weeks to get the trans bolted in and tested before cruise moab. Dang it, that's a little too close for comfort if everything even goes well.
 
After hearing back from Daniel at Domiworks, sounds like my adapter is on that same backorder, says he missed it initially when the order was submitted, wasn't till a few weeks ago when I emailed the retailer about it, they emailed him, that he was aware of the order. He said they should be about 2-3 weeks till they're finished, which after a week to get here to the states, and maybe another week to get to me, only leaves me less than 2 weeks to get the trans bolted in and tested before cruise moab. Dang it, that's a little too close for comfort if everything even goes well.
I agree, you have a much tighter timeline than I do since I keep having work trips pop up that I need to do which is taking away from my front end refresh before the trans goes in. Were you able to get the TCU flashed for Maxx? I'm super interested to see your build, if anyone's making videos at cruise moab wave them over.
 
I agree, you have a much tighter timeline than I do since I keep having work trips pop up that I need to do which is taking away from my front end refresh before the trans goes in. Were you able to get the TCU flashed for Maxx? I'm super interested to see your build, if anyone's making videos at cruise moab wave them over.
I'm sending off my TCU this friday, then after I get it back, I'll start to familiarize myself with the M-tune software. I have a feeling this may not happen before cruise moab, so I'm not pulling the 4 speed until I have confirmation that the engine adapter is on the way. Should've ordered it back in October right after I received the trans
 
+100 if you can add a dipstick and drain plug! 😂
Drain plug yes, dipstick is unlikely unfortunately unless I can figure out maybe removing the dipstick from my current trans and add it to the aluminum pan I’m trying to get. I’m not sure about billet as it’s a lot more cost and unknown how much it could interfere with skid plates down the road
 
Good news, should have the TC adapter next week. Got my shipping info from driftHQ. Won't be able to show 8hp+HF2A until April/May due to the rebuild kits from CruiserTeq are OOS. Here's hoping the bell housing adapter is shipped by the time I get to tear into the transfer case. Thinking I might link up with @AnthraxVX and get some scanning done for a supra shifter and maybe figure out what I'm gonna do with the PWR/2nd buttons

Screenshot 2026-03-04 082112.webp
 
Good news, should have the TC adapter next week. Got my shipping info from driftHQ. Won't be able to show 8hp+HF2A until April/May due to the rebuild kits from CruiserTeq are OOS. Here's hoping the bell housing adapter is shipped by the time I get to tear into the transfer case. Thinking I might link up with @AnthraxVX and get some scanning done for a supra shifter and maybe figure out what I'm gonna do with the PWR/2nd buttons
PWR button would make a great 2nd transmission map button, like higher shift points or something
 
PWR button would make a great 2nd transmission map button, like higher shift points or something
I'm kinda thinking of just trying to make a blank where the 8 position dial with the turbolamik kit goes. Maybe something else to put the LCD screen where the 2nd start switch is. Ideally I'd love to put it in the cluster where the 2nd/ OD off/ ECT power lights are but cutting worries me a bit
 
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