100 Series LX470 8HP swap

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Scotty UZJ100 said:
Why haltech and not Maxx. If you're adding an ECU why not get one that can control both the engine and transmission?
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Because the Maxx emulate stock and I understood you to say it doesn’t learn and manipulate like pressure without flashing. The beauty of the Lamik is it learns and has slip monitering built in.

Haltech support is second to none too. Attach computer with internet, call support open port to computer and they can take over and make adjustments and refinements. They have knowledgeable support staff and I a familiar with their products.

If the maxECU could do the learning and modify line pressures and learn. It would be a great choice one and done.
Their support page is lacking to Haltechs… when o looked. Without pre configuration files this means you’re having to make it work.

Haltech does a nice job on just how to do that.

I haven’t ever worked with ECUMax tho … just looked on the surface.
 
obe12 said:
Because the Maxx emulate stock and I understood you to say it doesn’t learn and manipulate like pressure without flashing. The beauty of the Lamik is it learns and has slip monitering built in.

Haltech support is second to none too. Attach computer with internet, call support open port to computer and they can take over and make adjustments and refinements. They have knowledgeable support staff and I a familiar with their products.

If the maxECU could do the learning and modify line pressures and learn. It would be a great choice one and done.
Their support page is lacking to Haltechs… when o looked. Without pre configuration files this means you’re having to make it work.

Haltech does a nice job on just how to do that.

I haven’t ever worked with ECUMax tho … just looked on the surface.
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As an updated, MaxECU I saw a YouTube in setting up like pressure control to soften / firm up shifting , and rpm to hold gear , he enabled another axis and had 4 presents. This allows turning for like pressures and I don’t know if it shows slippage like the Lamik does. Should like a software change to show this.

Boomslang doesn’t make a plug n play adapter for MaxxEcU. I reached out to him today.

Leasing this about MaxxECU steps them up on the latter choices. If it showed slippage and provided learning adaptations then it would be slam dunk.

Now standalone MaxECU and make it work via 99 2UZ that would nice to know. What trade off if any would have to be made? Not sure.

Just more information learned about this.

Tex
 
www.seemslegitgarage.com

Transmission Solutions | "Seems Legit" Garage

Everything you need to know about modern transmission swaps! We support CANTCU, Turblamik, and MaxxECU systems for ZF 8HP, DCT, DSG, PDK and more! A one-stop-shop for everything related to modern transmission swaps.
www.seemslegitgarage.com www.seemslegitgarage.com

SLG got a good overview on what controllers do what. Maxx is an excellent engine/trans controller provided you get a gen 1 8hp70.

I am thinking I want to try to use the radiator trans heat exchanger to get up to temp and based on pics I see I might be able to change out the 3/8 barbs for -8AN fittings
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(Not my rad, found this on one of the radiator threads on mud)
I believe with the hpr trans cooler adapter I should be able to run -8 lines from the trans to the rad heat exchanger input and on the output do a improved racing 5gpm/185F thermostat.
image-90257267.webp


I would then look to replace my factory air/oil trans cooler on the right with a potentially smaller one with an electric fan I could run to a relay and turbolamik output to trigger when temps are +220F
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the alternative is running this with just an air/oil cooler

The temps it lists though I'm not sure about since I hear everything is meant to be 180F+ and I don't know how much heat would get into the atf if it's circulating just within the transmission before the thermostat opens and then goes to the air-oil cooler
Additional Thermostat Info
The thermostat opens up about 10c lower than most OEM thermostats, giving you better control of your transmission temps.
  • The typical stabilization temp is 74C (165F)
  • Activation temp is 71C (160F)
  • Full flow temp is 83C (181F)
Apologies if this sounds like it was talked about before, I just saw that the rad trans fittings looked like the might be able to swap from barbs to AN fittings
 
I believe this would be part of this discussion on 8HP Swap to 100 Planning controllers. If you decide to go piggy back or full stand alone MaxxECU i been doing some homework on this. Boomslang doesn't offer a Patch harness From 122 Pin yota to MaxECU, he does offer open ended same color wires from the OE factory Harness at a price 560.00 plus 20 shipping... ouch .. Another option I ran across is ruse seller on eBay that lists more connectors than his webpage and the offer two versions

this one 159.00 converting OE toyota to this other spec plug to build a harness to MaXXECU .. makes it plug and play.


Or a PCB and connector sold separately for 40.00 each and you solder the ECU connector the board and solder you own wires to the board to piggy back or standalone an ECU


Another for wiring in colors and laser marked with connector pin installed on one end and can customize it to connectors I read is

Home - YourSpec - https://www.yourspec.com/ around 255 ish dollars up or down depending on white or color wires. A lot less money than a fly lead harness from MaxECU.


hope this helps

Tex

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@obe12 I've bought that 122 pin board to make a plug n play style harness, I still need to order the male connectors for the factory ecu, have the connectors that came with the Maxxecu harness.

Also side note, after a few revisions, today my 3d printer guy came up with a mount that is spot on, just one more prototype before the final for the A90 shifter. Which I just found out last week, Maxxecu doesn't currently support the A90 shifter, bummer, they said it's coming soon though. Which is fine because I leave for Moab in 3 weeks and still have had no idea when the engine adapter will show up. My new deadline is May 23rd, so right after I get back from Cruise Moab, teardown begins and hopefully the shifter is sorted out by then.

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TrailBornRunner said:
@obe12 I've bought that 122 pin board to make a plug n play style harness, I still need to order the male connectors for the factory ecu, have the connectors that came with the Maxxecu harness.

Also side note, after a few revisions, today my 3d printer guy came up with a mount that is spot on, just one more prototype before the final for the A90 shifter. Which I just found out last week, Maxxecu doesn't currently support the A90 shifter, bummer, they said it's coming soon though. Which is fine because I leave for Moab in 3 weeks and still have had no idea when the engine adapter will show up. My new deadline is May 23rd, so right after I get back from Cruise Moab, teardown begins and hopefully the shifter is sorted out by then.

View attachment 4109042View attachment 4109043
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I like the center shifter mount….. nice !


A set of used cut off 2UZ ECU connectors male with female pins … that may work?
 
obe12 said:
40 bucks off eBay … maybe the link will work.

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I taking your lead on this and going all in on MaxxECU for my 100. The plan is to standalone the MaxxECU keeping my A343 and after that’s stable working swap to 8HP. This will clean up my fuel control now and allow me to extend my A343 until I find a donor trans and get the adapters.

Then change trans to new 8HP, and make secondary trans harness to Pin in, removing old pins of A343, and hopefully have a working 8HP.

I sure am interested in the final shifter and how you get a the finished installed look after the center console is back together.

Just following your lead.

Tex
 
TrailBornRunner said:
@obe12 I've bought that 122 pin board to make a plug n play style harness, I still need to order the male connectors for the factory ecu, have the connectors that came with the Maxxecu harness.

Also side note, after a few revisions, today my 3d printer guy came up with a mount that is spot on, just one more prototype before the final for the A90 shifter. Which I just found out last week, Maxxecu doesn't currently support the A90 shifter, bummer, they said it's coming soon though. Which is fine because I leave for Moab in 3 weeks and still have had no idea when the engine adapter will show up. My new deadline is May 23rd, so right after I get back from Cruise Moab, teardown begins and hopefully the shifter is sorted out by then.

View attachment 4109042View attachment 4109043
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What material used for the print? I doubt I could get the file from you? It looks good though. the only other thing I was considering was mounting the rotary dial for the lamik near the shifter but as stated previously it might be better to use the pwr/2nd buttons for that.
 
I second that… I pitch in on the recouping cost too to get the file to make a mount. I have a 3D printer.
 
Just an update final found the part of MaxECU webpage that includes different levels of combined goods like lanmda harness 1 harness 2. When I priced these harnesses seperate it adds up fast. All together as a premium kit falls in 418.15 more that has connectors, accessories, harnesses and wideband Lambda Sensor.

Aka “kit”

Harnesses seperate are pricy !

Awaiting Elate to get back to me on the correct IAT sensor for my intercooled Supercharger, its mounts under the intake … oh yeah …

all this adds up fast
 
Papa Wickey said:
@TrailBornRunner just got a email from drift hq for the UZ to N63 adapter. “In manufacturing. Estimate 3-4 weeks to our warehouse :)”
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Great, right as I leave to Moab for 2 and a half weeks, so it'll sit outside that whole time. I'll have that print file available soon, PETG was going to be the material for the final print. I too was thinking of finding a way to use the pwr/2nd start buttons for a way to change setting for the transmission. I'm probably going to use the space in front of the shifter for my electric parking brake controls.
 
TrailBornRunner said:
Great, right as I leave to Moab for 2 and a half weeks, so it'll sit outside that whole time. I'll have that print file available soon, PETG was going to be the material for the final print. I too was thinking of finding a way to use the pwr/2nd start buttons for a way to change setting for the transmission. I'm probably going to use the space in front of the shifter for my electric parking brake controls.
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Dang, hate hearing about the delay!
 
TrailBornRunner said:
Great, right as I leave to Moab for 2 and a half weeks, so it'll sit outside that whole time. I'll have that print file available soon, PETG was going to be the material for the final print. I too was thinking of finding a way to use the pwr/2nd start buttons for a way to change setting for the transmission. I'm probably going to use the space in front of the shifter for my electric parking brake controls.
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If you can shoot me the file I can do ASA for the mount since hot days could cause the PETG to sag a bit. It starts to glass at 158-176F. ASA is UV stable too so direct sunlight is no worry either
 
Papa Wickey said:
If you can shoot me the file I can do ASA for the mount since hot days could cause the PETG to sag a bit. It starts to glass at 158-176F. ASA is UV stable too so direct sunlight is no worry either
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I've had a few parts on the dash and center consoles printed in PETG that are a few years old, doesn't seem to be a problem. I believe all of Ben's interior parts are all PETG as well. I assume the interior only get to about 130-140 on these 100+* days.
 
TrailBornRunner said:
I've had a few parts on the dash and center consoles printed in PETG that are a few years old, doesn't seem to be a problem. I believe all of Ben's interior parts are all PETG as well. I assume the interior only get to about 130-140 on these 100+* days.
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Well guys, your fault! I have to blame someone… can’t be “me” Papa Wickey it’s really your fault. My Toyota buddy sent me your YouTube vid on that adapter. He knew I was talking to him about a possible 8HP swap but the adapter for Dodge really moves the transfer back a lot.

I jumped off the deep end today. 2100 bucks ! For a standalone MaxxECU premium Kit with 2 wideband sensors for my V8 shipped. I now going after the full standalone ECU on my 100. RusEFI adapter came in and looked good to convert OE harness to 3 plugs appears to be AMP or the type Haltech uses. Simple pin in / out system.

The plan use provided harness to make a connection to the rusEFI plugs and be plug and play to my truck.
Fly lead the IAT and Lambda widebands, e85 flex fuel sensor. Eventually fly lead the 8HP as a sub harness to the trans / shifter ect. When that days comes.

I need to 3d print a cover and box to contain the adapter. I have a 3D scanner and maybe learn how to actually put it to use scanning the board.

So guys I have a vested interest in the trans control side and when it’s going, Mae the shift to 8HP when I can get all the parts.

The dealer has a flash unit and said can work something out flashing a 8HP70. I may have the base covered.

You guys are doing the hardware side and maybe learn from each other some.


Tex
 
By the way, MaxxECU referred me to a dealer for support! , When I had some questions. They are not Haltech for sure. Haltech’s team is sharp and you can open a port on your computer and the tech can screen share and take over if needed. Yeah I get they do not support the 8HP … maybe one day they might.

Hopefully, the MaxECU will be easy to get going.

Take care

Tex
 
Small update, got case rebuild kit ordered and Kurt already has it on the way to me, Also ordered the HPR cooler line adapter thing from Seems Legit. Hoping to figure out if the press I have available to me can handle getting the bearings off as I intend to replace all the bearings when installing the new shaft. Might also be able to have someone up un Garden Grove hit the case with one of those laser rust removers to knock all the grime off.
 
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