$10 LED Flasher for 60/62 series

[CruiserTrash]

@CruiserTrash

What are we solving for? Looks like folks have the solution no?

Whatever the case, I suspect the capacitors would be the thing doing the "flashing". Not sure why nobody's been messing with hose. I'm not familiar with flasher circuits so maybe that's a bad suggestion, but most basic analog (non-digital chip timer circuit) oscillators use capacitor networks for speed. The "astable mutivibrator" is my favorite oscillator circuit ... based purely on the name of course.

On second thought, what would be nice is to replicate the flasher base so that any $2 eBay junk Chinese flasher guts could be scabbed onto a base that plugs right into the OEM socket.

Anyway, you called me??

 

[caladin]

I cracked open my LED flasher from Amazon ( Exact same part as Hygge shows in his post ) out of curiosity,
and it was exactly the same as the green one I posted previously with just a relay and a capacitor inside.

I plugged that one in and it works fine with my LEDs

It even makes a clicking sound.

Just in case someone else wants to gamble, this is where I bought it, YMMV.

Amazon product ASIN B07XP37H92
Genuine Parts brand in the red and white Toyota rip off box.

The one on the left in this photo worked for me to correctly run leds..

 

[caladin]

Just to be clear, it looks to be the one with the big test for the warning at the bottom (Even if pic does nto show it clearly,

So like this (Yes)

Not like this (No)

I'm going to pick one of these up as a spare and open it up to take a look to see if the internals are the simple version that works with LEDs (but is a non clicking version)

It is 100% the same one I'm running now, as I bought it from the company (DTS)
Amazon product ASIN B09XGRHBG8
Update: I ordered part above and got the non-LED working version with the small text. so It's random which you get. Sorry.

 

[Mike83FJ60]

ok, simple question. How do i remove the existing relay (Green 81980-22070)? It doesn't seem to want to move.

 

[CruiserTrash]

ok, simple question. How do i remove the existing relay (Green 81980-22070)? It doesn't seem to want to move.

Check your PMs

 

[87CRUSR]

ok, simple question. How do i remove the existing relay (Green 81980-22070)? It doesn't seem to want to move.

Release tension on Side pressure plastic clips. Use a small screwdriver if needed.

That's what I remember...

 

[CruiserTrash]

Alright all you wannabe electronics goons. I figured this out a while ago and have these for sale: OEM flasher modules modified to work with LED blinker bulbs, for both 60 and 62. I reverse engineered the circuit, drew it out as a schematic (both 60 & 62 are very similar), and spent a little bit looking at it. Cutting out the 100R resistor does two things. First it puts a lot more current through one of the transistors than it should normally be seeing. These transistors are not available for sale anywhere, so if cutting out the resistor fries the transistor, the whole thing goes in the trash. It also deletes the hyperflash feature when a bulb burns out. Treating the transistor this way might be a good way to make a distortion effects box for an electric guitar, since you're overdriving the transistor, operating it out of it's appropriate bias - less than ideal for a flasher.

Ultimately this is a fairly basic oscillator circuit and cutting out the resistor isn't how you change the flash time within the parameters of the circuit design. I do it the right way so that the flasher will continue to have good longevity.

I'm currently running low on cores, so if anybody wants to sell me these two flashers shown below, PM me.

 

[Alex7]

Alright all you wannabe electronics goons. I figured this out a while ago and have these for sale: OEM flasher modules modified to work with LED blinker bulbs, for both 60 and 62. I reverse engineered the circuit, drew it out as a schematic (both 60 & 62 are very similar), and spent a little bit looking at it. Cutting out the 100R resistor does two things. First it puts a lot more current through one of the transistors than it should normally be seeing. These transistors are not available for sale anywhere, so if cutting out the resistor fries the transistor, the whole thing goes in the trash. It also deletes the hyperflash feature when a bulb burns out. Treating the transistor this way might be a good way to make a distortion effects box for an electric guitar, since you're overdriving the transistor, operating it out of it's appropriate bias - less than ideal for a flasher.

Ultimately this is a fairly basic oscillator circuit and cutting out the resistor isn't how you change the flash time within the parameters of the circuit design. I do it the right way so that the flasher will continue to have good longevity.

I'm currently running low on cores, so if anybody wants to sell me these two flashers shown below, PM me.

View attachment 3501098

Thanks, just ordered for my 62. These just come in stock ? I checked a few weeks back and only 60 in stock. Either way, thank you. Just ordered.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Thanks, just ordered for my 62. These just come in stock ? I checked a few weeks back and only 60 in stock. Either way, thank you. Just ordered.

Big secret: they’re interchangeable. The box looks different and the electronic guts are slightly different, so they need modified slightly differently … but you can put a 62 flasher in a 60 and vice versa, and they work.

You bought my last one of either variety. I really need cores from people and I’m willing to pay $25/ea. my sale price is more due to the labor involved with opening them up, cleaning everything, and installing the new components. The materials aren’t expensive, maybe $2 per flasher, but it takes time to do the work.

 

[Alex7]

Big secret: they’re interchangeable. The box looks different and the electronic guts are slightly different, so they need modified slightly differently … but you can put a 62 flasher in a 60 and vice versa, and they work.

You bought my last one of either variety. I really need cores from people and I’m willing to pay $25/ea. my sale price is more due to the labor involved with opening them up, cleaning everything, and installing the new components. The materials aren’t expensive, maybe $2 per flasher, but it takes time to do the work.

Sounds good and thanks for the info, I'll be sending you my old one asap to keep this running for other folks.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Sounds good and thanks for the info, I'll be sending you my old one asap to keep this running for other folks.

FYI the “core fee” I charge is higher than what I’m willing to pay for cores simply as an impetus to get folks to send them back. I mean, the core is refundable! It’s basically a ransom haha.

 

[Alex7]

FYI the “core fee” I charge is higher than what I’m willing to pay for cores simply as an impetus to get folks to send them back. I mean, the core is refundable! It’s basically a ransom haha.

lol I did the math, I saw it ... its no problem, im just happy the hyper flash (which makes literally ALL the lights in the back flash) will be over with ..

 

[red66toy]

Alright all you wannabe electronics goons. I figured this out a while ago and have these for sale: OEM flasher modules modified to work with LED blinker bulbs, for both 60 and 62. I reverse engineered the circuit, drew it out as a schematic (both 60 & 62 are very similar), and spent a little bit looking at it. Cutting out the 100R resistor does two things. First it puts a lot more current through one of the transistors than it should normally be seeing. These transistors are not available for sale anywhere, so if cutting out the resistor fries the transistor, the whole thing goes in the trash. It also deletes the hyperflash feature when a bulb burns out. Treating the transistor this way might be a good way to make a distortion effects box for an electric guitar, since you're overdriving the transistor, operating it out of it's appropriate bias - less than ideal for a flasher.

Ultimately this is a fairly basic oscillator circuit and cutting out the resistor isn't how you change the flash time within the parameters of the circuit design. I do it the right way so that the flasher will continue to have good longevity.

I'm currently running low on cores, so if anybody wants to sell me these two flashers shown below, PM me.

View attachment 3501098

I am very happy the @CruiserTrash flasher in my FJ62.
Return those cores!

 

[WheelsA10]

FJ62 flashers cannot be converted, you must use a pre 88 flasher from a 60 series. I have heard mini trucks of that time period pre 88 may also work but don't hold me to that. This has been documented in the 80 series forum but for those who do not frequent it here you go:

FJ60 Flasher P/N 81980-22070. It is green and rectangular compared to the smaller square black FJ62 one.

You carefully pop the cover off and I used needle nose pliers to bend the resistor back and forth until it came off. There is no de-soldering or technical work needed. The hardest part was getting under the driver's side to carefully unclip and remove my stock flasher using two small screwdrivers.

I found the flasher for $10 on eBay but there are many other ways to skin this cat. I like the stock looks and the way it clips back into the board.

I robbed this first picture from the 80-series forum.

View attachment 1851077 View attachment 1851078

I bought this flasher on Amazon the other day but looks nothing like that inside. Threw it in anyway on my ‘88 FJ62 and it fixed the hyper flash now that I’m running all LED. Thanks for the tip!