ARCHIVE 10/88 FJ62LG-PNEK my girl the " Ghost "

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The newer oil pressure sender on my FJ62 has a male blade connector that's not being used, should it have a ground wire run to it?


this is what the male ground tab is for ,

so YES a ground side circuit female spade connector affixed to the additional MALE tab it there now for proper sender signal

transmission to your dash gauge ....


do not simply ground off the additional ground wire to just anywhere , make sure to tie it in to a white wire w/ black tracer stipe chassis ground circut wire , this way your sure its properly grounded 100% of the time ..

i ran out of day light this weekend , ill be posting detailed tech and photos of that connection point and the new oem sender too with my BLUE female spade connector attached to the oil sender it self too , as soon as free time allows ...



- good question , thanks for reaching out .......... :)
 
Next up is the Cracked up TPS sensor 4 pin connecter here shown below , i sorta am realizing how blessed and lucky too i am to simply have most of what i need in

RAW parts and supporting electrical materials here at the skunk-works Facility a Quickie trott away in a moments notice ... :)







- I learned early in T-TEN to always stager any multi-wires in one sub harness repairs because you will not wind up with a giant bubble or lump under a particular location under your subsistent re-looming and final tape off as well

- some if you may wonder why I use various colors of electrical tape…

- I also learned early on to cover my A#S working for toyota dealerships by tagging or marking my own work with a unique color electrical tape to avoid all sorts of come-back scenarios you could only possibly imagine, the most common ones included dealership customers taking apart your repair work to verify if was done correctly or simply because there curious little Squirrels 🐿!

- In my case here on my personal projects and past shop jobs I had going on , it’s always good measure to mark or tag my Own work for a future reminder in bright CAUTION ⚠️ Yellow that I was there and look for a previous repair or modification of some sort …

- it’s a excellent form of checks and balances that’s pretty much goof proof if you always follow the simple rule and take the extra minute of time to switch electrical tape colors …

You will see here I first give a general wrap of yellow TAG tape then final neatly OCD / SR5 style final wrap in OEM black harness tape

- I will. Tape-Tag a B+ hot wire in red tape or BLUE too depending if it’s a constant HOT B+ or a switched leg one …

- white tape is for ground side full time N- and green Tape for a N- negative switch leg circuit for example …

——————————————————————————



Below you will see because all 4 Leeds on the TPS repair connector are all black and the new KY jelly-brand rubber service weather boot
will be covering the exit location of each wire from the connector housing , I use the primary or tracer stripe color paint pen 🖊 to
Denote the correct location and hook up to the existing chassis side
Factory color coded tracer stripes wire , the brown wire is simply solid brown so no tracer stripe to match …..

The green wire / w black tracer stripe is referred to by the blank black connector housing but a black sharpie pen 🖊 color codes the white 3-M crimp heat shrink adhesive lined butt connectors , these are the
Absolute bench mark and only product I use , nothing is better in my experience …

The adhesive is a low temperature melting and flowing type and makes a water / weather / and mechanical bond in every way if properly crimped and heated like you see below …








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You will take note too , no matter the purpose of the electrical connector i touch today or tomorrow, I always apply dielectric grease to all …

Eventually one day the entire trucks connectors will be done in this way if I have anything to do with them …

Dielectric grease has 2 main purposes from my points of view

- prevention and preservation ….

- similar to how I view the entire Light Emitting Diode technology LED bulbs ..

- preservation - LED bulbs preserve vintage toyota wires at there current
Physical state

- prevention - they prevent future load draw melt down issues due to reduced current draw

- lastly it’s simply safer to have brighter Lumens is todays hurry up world …




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Final end product night time only LED illumination shots :

I am happy with the results with one exception ?

I need to source and research a different orange day-glow type pigment as it yes pops during the day time but not as spectacular as the JDM yellow at night , it’s much more pronounced then the camera phone images suggest but indeed not as brilliant ?


My main switch panel layout is mostly sorted out as I mention the rear wiper has been relocated to the far RH stand alone switch knock out blank under the radio via a Kustom OEM toyota correct 4pins connectors sub harness I made on the fly , I will document that in further detail later in another post as it turned out to be simply the best possible idea in the end because it’s a non-illuminated factory rocker switch and is lit up a bit from the 70 series RHD full size single din radio I have updated to full on LED as well too , ✨ shines down on it in a unplanned and interesting way ….

I plan on swapping the cig illuminated trim ring for a blue one

Also installing a @ChaserFJ60 double usb assy. OEM inspired and themed outlets as well with a blue LED also

I still need to BLUE LED the A/C switch button itself and the hvac panel too

Other then those 2 small details the Entire Cement Ghost is now 💯 % Full On LED updated inside and out …

Pretty dam kool indeed , I also SKUNK-WORkS ,s. up a plug and play fully Digital Turn Signal Flasher / Hazard Relay i will go into more detail. below ,




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I think those gauges turned out a bit too good. Remember you have to look at the road as you drive, not drooling over the gauge cluster. I'd probably hit a school bus if my gauges looked that good. :)
 
I think those gauges turned out a bit too good. Remember you have to look at the road as you drive, not drooling over the gauge cluster. I'd probably hit a school bus if my gauges looked that good. :)

I think those gauges turned out a bit too good. Remember you have to look at the road as you drive, not drooling over the gauge cluster. I'd probably hit a school bus if my gauges looked that good. :)




thanks ! :)

ignoring all the Free-Form futuristic SNOW-VERSION Dry-Transfer decals & the JDM Yellow Scale-Meter and JDM Orange CAUTION red-line of no return details i added for

bling purposes i suppose 🤔


- the biggest ANY 60 / 61 or 62 bang for the buck !


both in materials cost

and personal HOBBY-ART-Therapy time i am now prescribing my self on weekends and such .....:D

would be the application of and subsequent hand polishing and hand buffing out using the little orange bottle of NU-FINISH Scratch Doctor product on both the

exterior and also the interior side of all 3 Gauge-POD cluster clear lenses , that hands down made the project turn out to my liking more then all the other details

combined ...


- i have used scratch-doctor on exterior lamp and lights lenses for a long long time , even on GLASS lenses and such , but NEVER on a interior LENS for some reason ?

i guess i never had the reason to ?


- but this makes me wonder what other interior trim possible uses it has like color keyed plastic trim , or seat belts too ?

- those 3 POD lenses had dust from the planet MARS inside the pods form age and time i guess ?

- and some how it made micro scratches on the inside surfaces too , maybe from blowing around inside i can only speculate ?

- i took note there were NO inside finger prints or any evidence of a PO being inside any of them before , a tell tail PROOF of this on ANY modern Plastic Gauge Pods housings or vintage ones also , would be the presence of metal TOOL markings on the locking press tabs you need to de-press in a particular sequence to be able to carefully pop off the clear lenses with a kidz gloves approach to say the least ...

- you can't simply depress the various locking tabs with your finger tips , a small pocket flat blade screwdriver at the very least is required ....


- i will continue to explore the NU-FINISH Scratch Doctor product and report back any Sput-Nick moments like the gauge pod lenses
certainly were and are Kyrstal F,ing Klear ! 🍻 🔍😎🔎
 
I am surprised you didn’t de-pin and replace the TPS receptacle housing, it’s always just the plastic housing that is cracked

The locking clip on the IAC usually breaks too so watch out for that. Usually we are replacing both housings
 
I am surprised you didn’t de-pin and replace the TPS receptacle housing, it’s always just the plastic housing that is cracked

The locking clip on the IAC usually breaks too so watch out for that. Usually we are replacing both housings


that thought briefly crossed my mind , but with all the connector housing varations i have seen in my life , for same in kind applications i was not going there ...

also , 2 of my old terminals looked
GREEN like MR. YUCK corrosion green ........?





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in my quest to have a 100% full on LED FJ62 i had to approach and concur 2 last details ,

the HVAC switch panel and little blue lighted A/C switch button itself .....


holy cow what a total B#TCH to get to , especially the a/c blue switch itself , but i think the end product results speak for them selves

- my use of the NU-FINISH scratch doctor product was un-planned but now naturally occurred to me to explore its full-on potential ?

- the results of the elbow grease polish-out NU-FINISH one man party simply leave me in total astonishment right now to this moment , after last nights all-nighter
at the SKUNK-WORKS shop facility here.. :D





These are the dissemble and before old crappy incandescent stock bulbs at play still ….



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Damnit! I always wondered if those controls were supposed to be lit up? Another project.....



keep in mind here 1 important SOLID concrete fact , if i did not emphasize it above enough ?


-
BOTH the oem original incandescent a/c push button switch bulb and the HVAC selection mode faces OEM incandescent original bulbs were OK , intact and lit up from the start

- so ........



LED's
+ NU-FINISH = a new fascination with vintage Toyota land cruiser interior illumination devices , BOTTOM LINE HERE ! :cool:
 
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New to me OEM front seats deep deep cleaning

And

OEM center console re-fresh the new painless modern way

- total interior cleaning and general DE-FUNKING in process all weekend

Here at the SKUNK-WORKS Laboratory .......


also : a big shout to @Yotajeff just because ......... 🍻





 
Matt’s rear differential has an lunchbox locker that’s been on the way out for some time now… so he enlisted me and my team to set him up with a fresh third member loaded with an OEM Non-US Limited Slip from my stash. Along with new ring/pinion, bearings, pinion flange, and solid pinion spacer of course. :cool:

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