10/74 Aussie 40

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

O

Ollies40

Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Threads
1
Messages
16
Location
Perth, West Australia
I was lucky enough to pick up a 10/74 FJ40 in June of 2017. It is my understanding the truck spent most of its life in country Victoria but the last ten years in Perth, Western Australia.

After a months reading this forum, tinkering along I thought it was my turn to document my progress and open it up to all the contributors for any tips, hints or lessons learnt you may want to share.

IMG_0974.webp


IMG_0975.webp


IMG_0971.webp


IMG_0973.webp
 
When I picked her up, she wasn't running and hadn't for 2 or 3 years. Thankfully the PO also gave me the Haynes manual

My first aim was to get it running... and stopping. I was pretty surprised at how quickly I was able to achieve this.

So far I have:
  • New spark plugs
  • New fuel filter
  • New oil filter
  • Charged battery
  • Flushed radiator, didn't bother doing the block - probably should have but the fluid out of the radiator was very very clean and the bolt to the engine was difficult to get too/undo.
  • Changed engine/ transfer and front and rear diffs oils. Question pending - refer below.
  • Blead breaks and clutch.
  • Degrease and wash underneath - not very successfully.
  • Replaced side mirror - first broken bolt. Only have one mirror atm. Have to weld a new nut onto the passenger side mirror arm.
  • 2 broken bolts when removing the cover to get to transmission and transfer. I haven't attempted to remove them yet, hopefully learnt a few lessons with the mirror arms. I have reverse drill bits to give it a go.
Cant for the life of me undo the transmission filler bolt. Attempted using
  • Breaker bar + jack
  • Impact drill
  • Penetrating oil (acetone+transmission fluid)
  • Hitting it with a hammer
  • Small bit of heat
  • Taking it for a drive and trying to undo it.
The head isn't rounded but I just can't undo it!! Is it dissimilar metals fused?? I know about the welding a new nut to it but I dont have a welded....yet. Is there something else I can attempt?
 
Last edited:
As mentioned above my first goal is getting it back on the road and attempting to make it not look too unroad worthy. After that who knows, I know a frame off will take too long, so I'd like to enjoy it for a while and work on it little by little. But gee the painted frames and underbodies look sooo good.

Immediate to do list
  • Figure out how to change transmission oil- if I can't get the filler bolt out - do I empty it and fill it through the gear stick hole?? Any comments welcome.
  • Run around with the grease gun and hit all those nipples.
  • New air filter
  • Install new windscreen, existing one is cracked.
  • Fix hand break - is this on the transfer case on the 10/74?? Haven't done any research on this yet- currently using bricks lol.
  • I forgot to mention above I've run around and figured out the earthing issues and installed new rear lights
Does anyone have other general maintenance recommendations?

Intermediate to do list
  • The PO has installed gas(LPG) I want to remove it - Job for the professionals
  • Reupholster seats
  • New Tyers
  • Fix choke - pushed out, can push it back in. Anyone had this issue? If so how did you handle it?
 
:flipoff2:Gday Ollie - welcome.

Im from Perth as well and have 78 with a 2F - I've added some comments below to your questions

Ollies40 said:
As mentioned above my first goal is getting it back on the road and attempting to make it not look too unroad worthy. After that who knows, I know a frame off will take too long, so I'd like to enjoy it for a while and work on it little by little. But gee the painted frames and underbodies look sooo good.

Immediate to do list
  • Figure out how to change transmission oil- if I can't get the filler bolt out - do I empty it and fill it through the gear stick hole?? Any comments welcome.
  • Run around with the grease gun and hit all those nipples.
  • New air filter
  • Install new windscreen, existing one is cracked.
  • Fix hand break - is this on the transfer case on the 10/74?? Haven't done any research on this yet- currently using bricks lol.
  • I forgot to mention above I've run around and figured out the earthing issues and installed new rear lights
Does anyone have other general maintenance recommendations?

Intermediate to do list
  • The PO has installed gas(LPG) I want to remove it - Job for the professionals
  • Reupholster seats
  • New Tyers
  • Fix choke - pushed out, can push it back in. Anyone had this issue? If so how did you handle it?
Click to expand...
  • Figure out how to change transmission oil- if I can't get the filler bolt out - do I empty it and fill it through the gear stick hole?? Dunno mate - mine was rounded a little, i bought a new bolt and got mine out.
  • Run around with the grease gun and hit all those nipples. - I ended up putting new nipples on - and theres a few under the car as well.
  • New air filter - do all filters
  • Install new windscreen, existing one is cracked. - I got mine form the windscreen guy (he's on Facebook) i found him to be cheaper than windscreens o'brien and the other main windscreen mobs in perth
  • Fix hand break - is this on the transfer case on the 10/74?? - not sure mate
Does anyone have other general maintenance recommendations? yes - brakes, steering and all oils changed and checked regularly (which you have already done), just the usual stuff. I had some choke issues on my 2F; link to the choke front he carry was buggered on mine.

If you're on Facebook - theres some great 40 series pages both WA and Australia wide; which are great for parts etc.

Again, welcome mate!
 
phils40 said:
:flipoff2:Gday Ollie - welcome.

  • Figure out how to change transmission oil- if I can't get the filler bolt out - do I empty it and fill it through the gear stick hole?? Dunno mate - mine was rounded a little, i bought a new bolt and got mine out.
  • New air filter - do all filters
  • Install new windscreen, existing one is cracked. - I got mine form the windscreen guy (he's on Facebook) i found him to be cheaper than windscreens o'brien and the other main windscreen mobs in perth
Click to expand...

Thanks mate. Seen a couple of 40's driving around, usually down Thomas St, West Perth.

I've ordered the new rubbers for the windscreen, they should be on the way. O'Brian's quoted me $300 for windscreen and install. Who's this bloke on Facebook? "WindscreenreplacementPerthWA.com.au"?

"All the filters" done oil and fuel, will do air, any others I'm missing?

But how did you get the filler cap out, force/impact driver? I'm just hoping the penetrating oil is working it's magic.
 
Hey Ollie

1800 180 028 and HOME - DRAFT are his details. From memory I got all new seals and he did my front windscreen + did my seals and re-installed all of my windows (8 in total). for o'briens etc to do 8 windows was crazy $$. He was good; and it was his son/son-in-law that did my 40.

Nope, that seems it for the filters.

Yep, I used an impact driver and a lot of patience / swearing! Not sure how you're going to get it off mate.

Cheers
 
Had a real win this weekend, was able to finally crack the transmission filler plug. The breaker bar was the winner, not sure if the 3 weeks of penetrating oil helped or it was pure persistence. That sound was amazing though!!

Also pulled of that big ugly bullbar, not sure it will go back on.

And changed out the air filter. Was surprised at the difficulty of such a routine job. For the record it's a Ryco A31.
 
Another one saved! Sweet rig mate, looks like it's mostly unmolested.
 
So I made a decision to start small, start something I could and would finish. I was inspired by the "what did you do this week" thread and sanded and painted the grill and light surround to get a feel for body work.

I used a rust converter on the grill, sanded back the I surround as much as possible and applied a rust kill before the white paint, couldn't find a grey rust converter in a rattle can. not really happy with the white. Might need a top coat of different paint.

QUESTION: what's your thoughts on zinc screws and should zinc only be used in the interior or not at all due to dissimilar metals? I've got some stainless bolts coming so planning on using them for all exterior bolts.

IMG_20170925_102347.webp


IMG_20171022_113657.webp


IMG_20171022_090155.webp


IMG_20171022_110419.webp


IMG_20171026_201056.webp
 
Beautiful rig, I've got an 11/73 (1974) FJ40 here in Cali. You're doing it all right, bit by bit as you go...it's an ongoing adventure, yeah?

Cheers!
 
Update.

Wheels, tyres, windscreen and seat belts!

Pulled the passenger seat to install the new seat belts, perimeter of floor pan is not in great nick, fair bit of sunlight coming through. Gave it a quick wire wheel and then rust converter paint to keep it at bay for a while. When/if the full body rolls around there'll be a fair bit of welding!

IMG_20171125_100021.webp


IMG_20171118_081637.webp
 
Finally figuring out a way to clear snapped bolts. Prevention is always better than cure, but with these old girls prevention is not always possible. I generally use the acetone + trans oil combo but when the bolts snap, I run with the drill out about 80% of the bolt and then hammer + nail punch time. I alway run a tap over the thread to clean it up and then install a new bolt. Haven't used an anti seize as I have a feeling they will be removed in less than 8 years.

Anyhow learning how the old girl drives, synchros in the gear box are shot, but nonetheless I have a surprising amount of confidence in her. Still waiting to take her on a 100kms + drive.

Pulling small bits off and sanding back to bare metal and painting. Thinking of removing the bubbles in paint to show the truth behind. Will treat will rust treatment for now.

Anyone in Perth have 2 rear number plate globes, housing and grommets for sale?
 
Just something about a '74 ... great rig, thanks for posting up! I didn't see anyone else address the choke cable issue. In my experience, its usually the cable at the dash end. I spray with WD-40 and work the knob a bit, spray, let it sit a bit. Spray the firewall side, linkage at the carb, anything you can get to and then work that knob again (pun not intended). Let it sit a day, repeat. Eventually it'll free up. I wouldn't use the acetone/trans fluid mix because it'll probably eat the paint. And here in the northeast USA, just about any bolt that comes out goes back in with anti-seize. Especially those fine thread spindly little things holding the bib, bezel, fenders ... and the other exposed screws and body bolts. Grrr ... I've snapped more of those little devils than I care to remember. Looking forward to seeing your progress!
 
Really battling myself to frame off or not at the moment. There's enough major items that require work (gearbox, rust on the back frame diagonals, panel work etc.) that if I start one I might as well do they whole thing. Comfortable enough with the cost and time off the road (and understanding it will take longer and be more expensive than I can imagine), it's just the space required.

Is a frame off Resto possible in a 1 & 1/2 car garage? If a single car garage was a single bed, I'd have the equivalent of a king single. With a small bit of bench space and storage tossed in for good measure.

I should be able to hang the roof and body from the roof.

I'll pull it apart, probably do the diff/knuckles, maybe reco the gear box etc myself. Clean up, weld and prep as much of the steel as I can, but send out everything major for paint.

Your thoughts and experience are appreciated.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom