Build 02/75 fj40 restoration

[LSUfj]

For sure. It’s been so long, I don’t remember which diff I rebuilt, but I’m pretty sure I only did the rear, so it would make sense that the front still has a clunk. I really hope the transfer case isn’t the source of the noise. I’m bringing tires in for balance tomorrow morning.

 

[LSUfj]

I got the rear tires remounted on some new OE wheels that I got about 15 years ago. Might have improved the noise/vibration, but some more highway driving will tell. I also got a new master cylinder for the brakes and clutch. Clutch was leaking and the brakes had an internal leak that was transferring rear circuit fluid to the front, eventually overfilling the front.

Anyway, brakes seem good now. I think I’m going to swap suspension to the Terrain Tamers. The current shackles are too long. Even with caster shims, there’s some wandering occurring when decelerating at high speed.

 

[LSUfj]

Vibrations still there but is improved, I’ll try greasing the drive shaft and also need to balance the front tires. Found that the wandering was an easy fix with a toe adjustment.

Also going to do some sniper adjusting this weekend. The IAC is going to zero at idle.

 

[knuckle47]

@LSUfj for what it’s worth…. I adjusted that IAC for 3 months, called Holley tech support, and asked a few questions right here. My IAC was routinely settling in at 5-9% at idle and then literally countdown 1 at a time to “0”. One of our guys here said, quit messing around and go drive it. Still not happy that it was not stable at the recommended setting but…. I drove it.

Within about 3 weeks of small rides, under 10 miles, it stabilized on its own. Once it a while it may drop to zero. Now that was 18 months ago. fast forward to now I started up instantly super cold winters and hot blasting in summer. It is instant and amazing. Driving it, my IAC stabilizes at around 6% on its own and 99% of the time it’s just where it remains.

I’ve never been one to just resolve an issue and not understand the exact reason why and it’s still puzzles me, but I have never discovered why it would not set properly. I would watch videos of Nolan driving the FJ 40s that he has worked on and occasionally there would be a glance towards the handheld displaying temperature, RPM , A/F ratio, duty cycle and IAC and I would look at my own handheld under those conditions to see where I was off and everything else seemed to match up very well so again I still don’t understand why….. but it’s running absolutely perfectly

 

[LSUfj]

Thanks @knuckle47. Good insight. I may leave it be for a bit then. It’s running really well and could probably use some more miles before I jack with it. I put a good 20-30 miles on it yesterday in the 100F heat and it ran great.

 

[LSUfj]

Maybe less critical in nature, but I can’t figure out what’s going on with my parking brake light switch. There is a connector in the harness that plugs in, but it does not have the RW/RW wires. There is, however, a pair of RW wires right next to it, but they have what look to be OE bullet connectors. I believe the little courtesy light in that area should be WB/RB, which are present but not hooked up yet. Did the OEM parking brake switch ever have bullet connectors?

 

[ranchdawg]

This thing?

 

[LSUfj]

Bingo! Looks like to just need a different switch or to change out the terminals.

 

[LSUfj]

I changed the switch terminals out on the parking brake switch and it works like a charm. Another 20 miles or so this morning, including some runs up to 70 and topping off gas for the first time. The steering box is leaking, but I think it's because of the heat. I need to either find a heat shield or make one.