How much should I expect to spend on the disc brake conversion?

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Joe Link

Joe Link

Joined
Jun 7, 2005
Threads
86
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Location
Portland, OR
I think one of the first upgrades I need to do to my cruiser is upgrade the front and maybe the rear brakes. I like the way the brakes feel on my 1980 Yota 4x4 much better than the cruiser drums. I've done some searching and found a few conversion kits but they're all like $700+, is that what it's going to cost? I don't want to cut corners here but I don't have alot of money. I'd like the best brake for my buck.
 
O.K. just to be polite ,
mini disc conversion
benefits are many
requires tie rod replacement and a few other easy little things.
check e-bay
:cheers:
 
I bought the complete front axle for $350 + 150 to ship and another $100 on a knuckle kit. But my old axle was a '64-66 and needed too much changed. I think the consensus would be to swap knuckles from a '60.
In any case you should replace calipers or rebuild them and check rotors for tolerance. It can get expensive.....real quick, but worth it IMO. I went 4WDB while at it.

Ed
 
hey joey,

i'm goin to go with a minidisc setup for my cruiser, so i'll be pulling the GM conversion off my front axle....maybe we can work out a deal on gettin you the necessary stuff?


malphrus

it'll be a few weeks before i can pull the stuff off, but just an idea
 
Search is great, I use it a lot. Real time advice is golden, thank you all for your patience with noob questions.
I bought a Toy Truck Axle from a junk yard for $325, my plan is to swap the knuckles only. My understanding is I will still have to do some grinding to fit the truck Birfields in the 40 axles. Anybody got pictures of this?
 
I've purchased my last two complete 1985-older minitrucks for $300 ea or less....COMPLETE trucks, one even ran.

Sell the t-case, some panels, the rear axle, and the frame, and you can end up back to zero WITH the front axle still in your possession....
 
Front Axle For Sale

I have the front axle you need. Rebuilt knuckles with new wheel bearings last year. Got the deluxe kit from Man-a-fre.

2 year old tie rod kit from Man-a-fre.

2 year old calipers.

Has the stainless steel flex lines.

No mud since at all since knuckle rebuild.

One rotor is grooved up pretty good, but I have been running it like that for 16 years.

This one is bolt up and go. What does everyone think it's worth.

Located in North Alabama.

J.R.
 
o.k. lets go over it again , 76-late 79 are not good for the conversion because they use a morfidite size birf.

mini disc conversion , nuf said.
 
oh yeah , this coming from a guy that did the disc conversion on my old school drum knuckles,and yes , I am running drum birf's.
 
Hi All:

There are a few options out there to convert to front disc brakes.

What year is your FJ40?

Prices on disc brake 'Cruiser frontends run from $200 to $700 - it really depends upon timing and location!

The "mini-truck" disc brake conversion is a good, and very doable swap for drum brake frontend 'Cruisers.

One can also swap the knuckles-out disc brake parts from a 60/62/70/75 Series TLC onto a drum brake 40/45/55 Series frontend.

Check the archeives - there is lots of info out there on this sort of swap.

Good luck!

Regards,

Alan
Seattle
 
Sorry I didn't search before. If you notice I haven't started any new threads in the last 24 hours! I'm getting *a little* better at searching and finding the info I need.

So far it seems like it's easiest and best to just purchase a mini truck axle, would you guys agree?

2nd, I can't find any information on vented vs solid rotors, is price to performance worth the cost of '86 IFS calipers? How about the difference between '86+ and '90+ V6 calipers? Keep in mind I do want to run very large tires.

I plan on getting rebuilt/remanufactured calipers anyway, so I'd like to have the best setup I can. If I have to live with drums for a couple more months while I save, that's alright with me.

Another thing that isn't explained very well is the whole tie rod/steering arm thing, can someone explain that or show me where to look for an explaination?

This guy spent $900 on the mini-truck swap!

http://internet.cybermesa.com/~chscully/front_discs.html#Parts List

That's insane, especially considering the Wilwood conversion kit is $750 for much better rotors and calipers.

Do you guys recommend I replace the bearings while I'm in there or should I just inspect them?
 
"If you notice I haven't started any new threads in the last 24 hours! I'm getting *a little* better at searching and finding the info I need."
Click to expand...

Oh good! I was beginning to fear that you might have killed yourself.
 
joey93turbo said:
So far it seems like it's easiest and best to just purchase a mini truck axle, would you guys agree?

2nd, I can't find any information on vented vs solid rotors, is price to performance worth the cost of '86 IFS calipers? How about the difference between '86+ and '90+ V6 calipers? Keep in mind I do want to run very large tires.

I plan on getting rebuilt/remanufactured calipers anyway, so I'd like to have the best setup I can. If I have to live with drums for a couple more months while I save, that's alright with me.

Another thing that isn't explained very well is the whole tie rod/steering arm thing, can someone explain that or show me where to look for an explaination?

This guy spent $900 on the mini-truck swap!

That's insane, especially considering the Wilwood conversion kit is $750 for much better rotors and calipers.

Do you guys recommend I replace the bearings while I'm in there or should I just inspect them?
Click to expand...

Buy a 79-85 minitruck axle. JTO and MAF kits are overpriced concoctions that do not adress the weakest link on an FJ: the weak coarse-splined birfields. I had the MAF kit and am now using minitruck FDB parts.

For the story on the capilpers you didn't look hard enough. See http://www.yankeetoys.org/black900rr/Rotors.html and http://mywebpage.netscape.com/beanz2dt/index.html

For the steering you will have to either buy new arms with correct taper as the minitruck tie rods ends have a different taper http://www.liquidoffroad.com/steering.php

or use the GM starter bushing spacer trick @ $2/side. You can buy these from MAF for $30 if spending more money makes you feel better. See
http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/tierodendbushing40.htm

or go some other route of high steer that would include new arms, TRE's, TR, etc. I haven't done this but I would guess budgetting around $500-700 for this alone.

$900 might be a little high for the minitruck FDB conversion but it all depends on where you start, what you get, what you want and how anal you are about everything. Wheel bearings alone are around a buck. Seal/wiper/trunion kit you'r looking at at least another buck. Vented rotors another $180, V6 4 runnner calipers without cores $175. Donor mini parts another $150-300. We're at $700-850 already and you haven't even addressd the inevitable proportioning problems you are bound to have. Throw another $200 at this problem screwing with proportioning valves and different mastercylinders plus $100 for a double flaring tool and $50 worth of 'practice' using it. It goes on and on and on and it ads up fast. You're going to s*** your pants and second guess your new found hobby when the reality of the cost sets in. I am wondering if you wouldn't be better off with a mid 90's Wrangler or something similar. Makes adjusting drum brakes sound pretty appealing doesn't it?
 
Dgangle has just done one of the best jobs of telling it like it is that I've seen, Joey. Every word comes from experience, I'd say.
 
honk said:
Dgangle has just done one of the best jobs of telling it like it is that I've seen, Joey. Every word comes from experience, I'd say.
Click to expand...
Thanks, and yes it did. I continue to work on the proportioning issues right now as a matter of fact. Experience and allot of reading here. POR & LCML is my teacher. I seem to remember things better that I have done that cost way more than originally planned:). Joey, I am not trying to come down on you for your choice of ride and great questions that you ask. At least you are asking them whereas some jump right in not knowing what they don't know! BTDT!
 
Hey man I really appreciate the advice and honesty. I'd much rather know as much as possible going in and plan ahead than be upset in the middle of the project when funds run out. I may just learn to live with my front drums for a while. As cheesy as it sounds, I'm a Sears Driving School graduate and I ALWAYS leave tons of room between myself and other vehicles. I know it won't help me if a deer runs in front of the rig or something but at least I'm not riding peoples asses. I've gotten used to the drums, and if it's going to be $700+ for this conversion I don't think it's worth it for me at this time.
 
joey93turbo said:
I've gotten used to the drums, and if it's going to be $700+ for this conversion I don't think it's worth it for me at this time.
Click to expand...

It is worth mentioning that you might try adjusting the drum brakes first. They are really bad if they are not adjusted properly and not so bad when they are adjusted; especially with 33s and smaller.
 
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