- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #261
not impressed, they sound cheap to me? Maybe it was testing a bunch in a row that left them lacking?
Jim S. FJ40 Tuneup
- Thread starter Tools R Us
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
not impressed, they sound cheap to me? Maybe it was testing a bunch in a row that left them lacking?
Ok...spill it which horn was best?
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #263
The $15 a pair type, have a couple of extra sets.
Do they require any mod for mounting to the 80 stock location?
I didn't get that impression from looking at them
murf
Lifer
I got a pair from the Autozone which are very loud and have a good tone. They were not expensive and rather simple to install. I also put a set on the wifes Highlander 
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #268
Did the spacer test, 1.5" it is.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #269
meep meep no more 
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #271
How I do spade connectors, not the only way or maybe the best way, but the best way that I have found. For critical connections, I don't like the plastic sleeves on the connectors, can't see to make a solid, quality crimp with them in the way. So, either buy them without or remove and discard.
Need the connector and two pieces of shrink wrap, sized for the wire and connector. Slide the small piece of shrink wrap over the wire, then crimp the connector, I crunch it with the "spiked" part of the tool, then fold it together with the rounded part.
Need the connector and two pieces of shrink wrap, sized for the wire and connector. Slide the small piece of shrink wrap over the wire, then crimp the connector, I crunch it with the "spiked" part of the tool, then fold it together with the rounded part.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #272
Slide the smaller shrink wrap up to the neck of the connector and shrink, slide the larger piece on till even with the end of the connector and shrink.
This does two things: Provides insulation, more importantly acts as a strain relief, moves most of the flex down the wire, away from the crimp. Allowing the wire flex to happen at the strip/crimp point is a leading cause of failure.
This does two things: Provides insulation, more importantly acts as a strain relief, moves most of the flex down the wire, away from the crimp. Allowing the wire flex to happen at the strip/crimp point is a leading cause of failure.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #273
This is how the factory "in harness" splice connections are done, wrapped with tape. This one was one wire in and five out, I only used three outputs.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #274
The reason for this little harness: The early rigs only had a single ignition on switch contact, they only ran a relatively small number of loads, ignition coil, carb idle cut, etc. The later rigs have a double switch to deal with higher loads, like injectors, fuel pump, etc. So this relay circuit is to take the load off of the switch. There are actually two relays, mounted side by side, the other one runs the ign, EFI, etc, this one is for key on accessories, heated seats, ARB control, etc.
Anyway, the relay is a factory headlight unit, pretty stout, ~40A. The plug is cut from the relay panel. The W/BK (ground) wire connects to the wire left hanging out of the relay next to it, the BK/BU connects the ign on from the key switch, these close the relay switch. The R/Y connects to the main battery input, supplies power, the Red wire sends power, split to three fuses. So when the key is off, the fuses are dead, when the key is on, they have power, with very little draw from the key switch.
Anyway, the relay is a factory headlight unit, pretty stout, ~40A. The plug is cut from the relay panel. The W/BK (ground) wire connects to the wire left hanging out of the relay next to it, the BK/BU connects the ign on from the key switch, these close the relay switch. The R/Y connects to the main battery input, supplies power, the Red wire sends power, split to three fuses. So when the key is off, the fuses are dead, when the key is on, they have power, with very little draw from the key switch.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #275
Rootbeer finally got his tires back from Raul, looks great!
Drives much nicer with round tires!
Drives much nicer with round tires!
Last edited:
Looks super awesome... Great work.
Chuck
Chuck
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Question Kevn you mentioned the easy start with FI. Does Rootbeer have the stock setup where the fuel pump only starts after you switch the key to start then after it starts a relay looking at the MAF sensor keeps the pump on? I don't like the fact you can't prime the system before starting but also realize it's a safety issue. I know of one case where a FJ60 with a V8 burned to ground because of a cracked fuel line at the back of the engine. Even after the engine died for lack of fuel the electric pump continued to feed the fire. With your custom wiring curious which way you wired it.
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #278
There are several strategies for safely wiring the fuel pump, we used the stock setup. It works well, so don't see any advantage in changing it? Plus, being stock, trouble shooting is the same as any other Toyota from the era. If you wanted to run the pump without the motor, simply jumper the test connector or install a switch.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
The thing I don't like about the stock setup unlike other FI systems I've had the fuel system doesn't pressurize when you first turn the key on. My FJ62 sits for two weeks to a month inbetween uses. It would be nice to have the fuel pressurized when I first turn the key to start. Never would do a on off switch for safety reasons but maybe a push button switch. Could get creative and use a two pole relay that works off the seat belt buzzer relay. One pole for the seat belt buzzer the other paralle the fuel pump points on the holding relay in the passenger's kick panel
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #280
If it's sitting long enough for the fuel pressure to leak down, the oil has also likely drained out of the bearings, filter, etc. Having it turn a few times to get the oil moving before firing would be a good thing? The 1FZ turns a couple of times before firing for just that reason.
