Recent content by SuperRunner

In reguards to the older LX470's 98-2000 or whatever years that aren't flashable. Can you put in a newer ECU? Even with flashing the ECU, how would ou get torque reduction? Unless you can have some external input into the ECU that triggers torque reduction, I don't see how any of that will...

Nice, would like to see progress. Question on your transmission, with the 2uzfe ECU, will that control the 96 a343 ok? I believe it will, but its been a long time since I looked at schematics.

Cool. Congrats. If I had 8k, laying around I would have bought it back in a heart beat. I had more than that into it(parts alone). Just can't do it right now. Ping me if you have any questions about it.

#1 reason why this did not stay in the community? Price. You cannot get a 7K+ loan on this. When I was originally selling it the interest in it was huge. Problem...nobody could get a loan. Only reason why I sold it is because I had a Sequoia also at the time and the Sequoia has Trac control...

GM was $395, import/ALL 2008-newer was $295 DrewTech Mongoose Vehicle Network Interface

$295...hmm, I gotta get me one of those.

Yup, sounds like fluid is low. OR Speed sensor not reading correctly. As you know there are two sources. The transmission itself, and the speedometer. You will need to get a toyota specific, or the super expensive snapon scanner to read that type of data. Or they have the cheaper PC...

Congrats on getting it running. Glad you didn't drop the whole project. toojay - Haha, yeah, pretty funny. Just great vehicles to work with. Good platforms with better engines. I lost count of how many engine swaps(different motor) over the last 18 years since my first one. I have done...

evap isn't too hard, you just need to find a spot for the big bulky box, or possibly try to find one from a car that has a pump and a slightly smaller tank. As for your exhaust...good luck, the stock cats will not fit, and if you can get away with using aftermarket cats, you will need to get...

Yeah, not really sure on that. I would assume since my FJ80 was an A440F. A343F would also be the same output.

if you had someone local, that knows wiring, have them double check all the connections. Somtimes you are just so used to seeing something that your brian can't tell the difference. A nice fresh set of eyes can sometimes do the trick. Just a couple weeks ago I was helping someone over text...

OBD scanner needs: BAT - Power TC - pink/black A(23) CANL -white B(34) CANH - black B(33) CG - ground SG - ground Make sure you got it wired to the OBDII port as well. Then for power for the ECU, make sure you have power at: IGSW - black/orange A(9) BATT - black/red...

you may or may not be able to tell if it is chipped. You really should get that printout to be 100% sure. Yeah, that leak detection pump, all that has to be working or the throttle won't work. That means that you need to get the charcoal canister which has a small motor and a pressure...

Leak Detection and Pump are REQUIRED Air Pump is REQUIRED If these do not work, your throttle will not open all the way. If you have the Data Link, but no communication, then you do not have power to the proper spots on the ECU. What type of scanner are you using. A dinky code reader will not...

Go back, and have them print out the spec sheet for the vin. It will have EVERY option that the vehicle was sold with. As for wiring in the imobilizer, it uses the TVIP. It would be a single wire. I will look over the wiring diagrams tomorrow and give more detailed info.