Recent content by jkeithw

thanks everyone!

all good points, but I can't imagine wire manufacturers giving any assurances for (or assuming any liability for advising on) our one-off installations?

yeah, good point - I do run welding cable for the big stuff/long runs. (I'd always assumed it was a better option than automotive wire) I think I'm going with 4ga - it's from the driver's side battery, across the cowl, then back to the passenger rear - for our DC/DC converter and various...

good point - I'll go back and add in the temp references for all those links. - and while I agree, it's a lot different pulling a 4AWG cable than trying to get a 2AWG through some places (so it'd be nice to know with some accuracy what is actually needed in a specific situation) also, 20%...

We're laying out the rear electrical right now for Julia's 80 (and my FJC, subsequently), and I'm finding a significant difference between various online wire sizing charts when researching length vs amperage. Here are a few that I've seen linked here on MUD (and the one I've been using up to...

ok, guys - here are my thoughts: First, I've been involved (directly and indirectly) with replacing windshields in vintage 911s for over two decades, so I have some experience here. That said, the Toyota seal is very impressive versus an equivalent German seal from the era. EVERY windshield...

well, that was not entirely fun. :) report later.

thx!

Guys, we're doing the windshield install today - do we need to pull the headliner? I hate to find out that it's necessary halfway through the job...

And while I’m at it - Joey’s CB button mount looks fantastically minimalistic, but doesn’t work with Midland’s newer microphones, so I drew up one that will. I’ll try that in ASA and see how it does. Busy night!

I’m pulling power for the GMRS from the unused rear heater circuit (20-amp fused), so I made a connector for the wires under the passenger seat. - Not terribly exciting, but it turned out well. I may also power a power port in the rear of the LX center console from this circuit.

Dash is almost completely finished - just need to wire the driving lights and reinstall the glove box. Incidentally, this Powerwerx Panel Mount 65W Combo USB-C PD & USB-A Fast Device Charger fits nicely in the place of the stock cigarette lighter: Their tech support recommends a 7.5a fused...

Would you be looking for printed parts or a print file to print your own?

Today I printed some spacers to push the fuse panel back and make room for the OBD2/Scangauge connector behind the fuse panel door. The connector can be unplugged if the state inspection ever warrants it (we don’t test anymore in my part of NC) Now on to driving lights and GMRS antenna...

Thx! The rear doors turned out great, and Julia has been killing it on the vapor barrier restoration: We ended up deleting the factory amp & removing it altogether for simplicity, and I was surprised to find out that the little dash tweeters still function - so we have a tidy little 6...