Recent content by JimSoCal

Finally addressing a decade old rear main seal leak, along with a few other “while you’re in there” items

Ordered up the AISIN pump (OPT012), photos show OEM pump with the TOYOTA logo ground off. About $80 shipped vs $250. If it shows up and isn't actually like the photos, will probably just run the original pump. The days of UAE parts were nice when we had the de minimis exemption, now fees make it...

@2001LC any reason to change the entire pump assy (15100-50050) vs just replacing the gear set (15103-50020)?

I will order up a pair of engine mounts. For the block to oil cooler coolant hose, the diagram has three, which it looks like I ordered in 2022, I will have to check to see if they all got installed. Are these the ones you are referencing? 16281-50030 (15767B) 16282-50040 (15767C) 15777-50030...

New OEM key set. Only about $30 per key at the dealer (25 for the valet), assuming you transfer your transponder / remote unit. Technically one key has an aftermarket transponder and remote, but that’s the vault spare.

alternate for those looking for a cheaper or OEM look: Gold - 1/8 inch Shock Cord - https://www.paracordplanet.com/gold-1-8-shock-cord/ Credit: How To: Repair Sagging Seat Back Pocket on LC - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-repair-sagging-seat-back-pocket-on-lc.813378/

Yea, I think that is the main reason for pulling the engine, being able to get proper cleanliness on the oil pan to block connection. Thank you for your thoughts, will make sure I take some photos along the way, I always seem to forget, but I’m sure some folks will find it helpful.

The buttons failing are a common issue, very cheap and easy repair. 100 Series Button Repair How-To - A/C, Defrost, Recirc etc - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/100-series-button-repair-how-to-a-c-defrost-recirc-etc.1111051/ The rear cupholder comes out when you push it in, but it is common...

Steering rack seems to be good after the reseal. I did a full disassembly of it and replaced everything, along with new OEM inner and outer ball joints, and poly bushings, so it feels like a bit of a waste to replace it currently. It was a while ago, but it didn’t seem too bad to pull it with...

I would highly recommend getting another master key made. If you lose your only master key, you’ll have to remove the immobilizer and re-solder a new chip.

Do you have a spare key to test with? Need to figure out if it's the key, or the immobiliser. EDIT: something to also check: My immobilizer fix - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-immobilizer-fix.946305/

I have a fairly bad rear plate leak (likely oil pump o'ring), along with the front oil pump o'ring small weep. I have decided to just pull the engine vs pulling the front diff and the transmission to repair the leaks. When I bought this 100 series approx. 4 years ago, I did a fairly extensive...

Yea, my forward driver side bushing was almost gone. All the others seemed in good shape. The original bushings are designed to have some side to side “play” in them, but are self centering to keep the wheel from wondering around. Poly bushings of course are much firmer, so you get “tighter”...

got my parts from cruiserteq today, some of the easiest bushings I have ever replaced. Thanks for the motivation. I hear the 2003+ racks are quite a bit more difficult.

About to do the same. I assume you have a 1998-2002? The outer sleeve don’t come out, just the rubber and inner sleeve, right?