Pulling engine "while you're in there"

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Joined
Jul 7, 2022
Threads
4
Messages
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Location
SoCal
I have a fairly bad rear plate leak (likely oil pump o'ring), along with the front oil pump o'ring small weep. I have decided to just pull the engine vs pulling the front diff and the transmission to repair the leaks.

When I bought this 100 series approx. 4 years ago, I did a fairly extensive reset in the engine bay. I replaced just about every rubber hose (fuel, oil, power steering, trans, water), tees, timing belt & water pump kit, serpentine belt, resealed OEM steering rack. Radiator was replaced by the previous owner, and looks to be in good shape.

My current list is the 2 o'rings, oil pump seal and rear crank seal, and oil pan FIPG. I am trying to keep scope creep to a minimum, but curious if anyone has any "must haves" while I have the engine out. I was considering Doug Thorley headers, but looks like they are NLA, and I don't have any exhaust tick on the current OEM headers, so don't plan on doing them at this time.

I would like to focus on items that really require an engine out to replace. Things like pulling the intake for the starter I would defer to when it shows signs of failing and just do it while the engine is in.

Truck is a 1999 with 350,000 miles.

I have attached the list of parts I replaced in 2022, along with a few other invoices, and a few more orders pasted here:


P/NQuantityPrice EachDescription
85212530611$ 18.62Windshield Wiper Blade (Right, Front) - Right Hand Side
85222521311$ 18.62Windshield Wiper Blade (Left, Front) - Left Hand Side
48531698352$ 44.77Shock Absorber (Left, Right, Rear)
SHOCK, REAR LEFT; SHOCK, REAR RIGHT.
48511695852$ 40.49Shock Absorber (Left, Right, Front)

SUNSONG8401595Rack and Pinion Seal Kit$ 18.50$ 0.001$ 18.50

P/NQuantityPrice EachDescription
45535600102$ 23.87Rack and Pinion Bellows
STEERING RACK, NO. 1; STEERING RACK, NO. 2.
45517600101$ 34.30Rack and Pinion Mount Bushing
90948021842$ 8.86RETAINER
CUSHION, NO. 1(FOR REAR SHOCK ABSORBER); CUSHION, NO. 2(FOR REAR SHOCK ABSORBER).
90948021734$ 8.86RETAINER
CUSHION, NO. 1(FOR REAR SHOCK ABSORBER); SHOCK ABSORBER CUSHION(FOR REAR).
90948021702$ 8.86Shock Mount Washer (Rear)
CUSHION, NO. 2(FOR REAR SHOCK ABSORBER); CUSHION, NO. 3(FOR REAR SHOCK ABSORBER).
90948021744$ 14.95Shock Mount Washer (Front)
90948021822$ 13.40Shock Mount Washer (Front)
90948021762$ 11.20Shock Mount Washer (Front)

AISINTKT021Timing Belt, Water Pump & Component Kit$ 183.99$ 0.001$ 183.99

P/NQuantityPrice EachDescription
85242600501$ 15.17Back Glass Wiper Blade (Rear) - Rear Blades
77747600311$ 15.35Vacuum Hose
17345500801$ 17.26HOSE, AIR, NO. 5
95337080091$ 23.32HOSE, FUEL
23273500201$ 29.90HOSE, FUEL, NO. 2
872456A0902$ 23.46HVAC Heater Hose (Rear)
REAR HEATER WATER INLET, C; REAR HEATER WATER OUTLET, A (FROM HEATER UNIT).
16711500901$ 109.99Engine Cooling Fan Shroud

P/NQuantityPrice EachDescription
90464005952$ 4.67CLAMP
90949019931$ 6.69CLAMP
9094901B511$ 3.08CLAMP(FOR FLEXIBLE HOSE CLAMP)
90469080072$ 3.39CLAMP
90464007931$ 2.33CLAMP
12235500101$ 5.19CAP, VENTILATION

P/NQuantityPrice EachDescription
00295001031$ 14.40Toyota Formed-in-Place Gaskets-Oil Pan
002721LLAC012$ 22.23ANTIFREEZE GALLON W
23300500901$ 35.33Fuel Filter
23803501201$ 44.54PIPE SUB-ASSEMBLY, FUEL, NO. 3
90080172421$ 2.11NUT, FLANGE
96721190101$ 2.06RING
827112A4201$ 2.69CLAMP, WIRING HARNES
82711430201$ 9.90CLAMP, WIRING HARNES
827113H3802$ 1.80CLAMP, WIRING HARNES
827112A6001$ 3.76CLAMP, WIRING HARNES
82711168206$ 1.59CLAMP
HEADLAMP CLEANER, NO. 1; HEADLAMP CLEANER, NO. 2; HEADLAMP CLEANER, NO. 3.
82711263806$ 1.97CLAMP, WIRING HARNES
827113H4502$ 4.17CLAMP, WIRING HARNES
82711208701$ 5.11CLAMP, WIRING HARNES
90980111501$ 9.89HOUSING, CONNECTOR F
 

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Last edited:
How is the steering rack holding up after the reseal? If it needs to be replaced it is much easier to do with the engine out obviously.

You will be pulling the timing belt to get the oil pump seal so plan accordingly on that.

Oil pump itself is relatively cheap any you will already be in there. I thought about putting the old one back and decided to put a new one in. Good time to clean the oil pickup and strainer. I would also clean the engine oil cooler and replace those gaskets.

The rear main seal is behind the flex plate which is easy to get to once the pans are removed. I would look over the flex plate to make sure it is not cracked or anything.

I would probably swap the oil dipstick o-ring.

Only other advise for now make sure to drain the oil and coolant from the block the best you can. Doesnt sound like you are interested in going into the top end which is fine. Just know when you flip the engine, you will likely have some remaining oil soak past the piston rings. Probably not the worst idea to pull the spark plugs so they dont get fowled up.

Let me know if you have any other questions since I just did this a few years ago.
 
Steering rack seems to be good after the reseal. I did a full disassembly of it and replaced everything, along with new OEM inner and outer ball joints, and poly bushings, so it feels like a bit of a waste to replace it currently. It was a while ago, but it didn’t seem too bad to pull it with the engine in, I believe I jacked up the engine a bit and it slid out.

I did consider replacing the oil pump, but I have never heard of one failing on the 4.7, and always wonder if sometimes original era parts perhaps may be better than new OEM parts today.

I will definitely add the oil dipstick tube and oil cooler gasket to my list.

Feels like going into the top end doesn’t make much sense, cams look like new when I pulled the valve covers, and I have not heard any general top end issues, other than overheat related items.

My biggest concern is getting a good seal on the oil pan. I have never seen a factory Toyota oil pan FIPG leak, but they all have the “factory gray” FIPG, and I have seen many oil pan reseals leak.

Any advice on the oil pan seal other than the general cleanliness? I assume you just used the standard Toyota black FIPG?
 
I think your reasoning on the steering rack is valid and I would probably come to the same conclusion. I had only replaced the bushings in mine with poly and knew the inner tie rod was worn so it made sense.

I certainly did worry about the quality of original parts vs the new OEM. Its been a while, but I was pretty detailed with checking everything and I don't recall anything jumping out that was a concern about how the replacement parts were manufactured.

With the engine flipped you do not have to worry about oil dripping down onto the gasket surface which seems to cause the most issues preventing the adhesion. I used some shop towels to protect the internals and cleaned the mating surfaces a few times. Yes, I used the Toyota FIPG the FSM calls out. This was a view as I started that process. Biggest tip is following the time limit closely as you need to apply the gasket, install the bolts, and torque them down before it expires. My dad assisted and we did a few dry runs to ensure we could do it smoothly. There are a lot of bolts so having a process helps.

IMG_8918.webp
 
Yea, I think that is the main reason for pulling the engine, being able to get proper cleanliness on the oil pan to block connection.

Thank you for your thoughts, will make sure I take some photos along the way, I always seem to forget, but I’m sure some folks will find it helpful.
 
Engine mounts & block to oil cooler coolant hose.
 
Engine mounts & block to oil cooler coolant hose.
I will order up a pair of engine mounts. For the block to oil cooler coolant hose, the diagram has three, which it looks like I ordered in 2022, I will have to check to see if they all got installed.

Are these the ones you are referencing?

16281-50030 (15767B)
16282-50040 (15767C)
15777-50030 (15777)

1779681229783.webp
 
It would be the 15777, in above diagram. Which is the only one that comes from block to oil cooler. The others (short hoses) and hard pipe. Come up front of engine, and easy to get at any time. The block hose is a PITA to R&R while engine in.

The above diagram show the O-ring for cooler. But not the figure 8 O-ring for bracket to pump. May as well replace both.

Oil pump can be inspected. But just replacing, is not all to many $$$.
Oil sending units get weak. They're easy to replace any time. But!
 
@2001LC any reason to change the entire pump assy (15100-50050) vs just replacing the gear set (15103-50020)?
 
You can disassemble oil pump, then run through series of test. Then if gears worn, R&R (remove & replace) them. There's also relief valve components. Then there's housing itself may have wear. It can be rewarding, taking things apart an restoring. In the 98-05, we can get individual parts. 06-07 we can only buy the whole pump and relief valve. Which has a different relief valve, possible other parts.

BTW: You'll need the oil pump to oil pick-up tube gasket. Also front crank shaft seal.
 
Ordered up the AISIN pump (OPT012), photos show OEM pump with the TOYOTA logo ground off. About $80 shipped vs $250. If it shows up and isn't actually like the photos, will probably just run the original pump. The days of UAE parts were nice when we had the de minimis exemption, now fees make it not worth it.
 
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