Recent content by DeepBarney

Yeah, I'll grant that a lot of it is due to the transitional/stop gap nature of the 62 series. Many other vehicles of that vintage, which were also 60's era tech desperately trying to be kept DOT and EPA compliant, are easier to deal with in my experience. They weren't as long for this world...

Careful, talk like that may get you ostracized. Working on old vehicles is often frustrating, but some of the stuff I've ran into on my 62 seriously gave me pause to wonder if all the talk about how easy to work on these trucks are is some sort of conspiracy.

Haha, sadly can't confirm that. Numerous old Jeeps have leaked in my driveway, and while far from the pinnacle of reliability they were no s***tier than anything else of the 60's-70's vintage in my experience. With the exception of a high mileage XJ, they all always seemed to need something (but...

A lot of things in the drive train are overbuilt for the expected duty these trucks would fulfill in the States, but a lot of ancillary components and things around that drivetrain just aren't as well designed in my opinion. Not that they're terrible, just not head and shoulders above what it's...

I drug my FJ62 out of a row of abandoned vehicles at a shop w/ 180k on the clock and questionable history of maintenance. I replaced the fuel pump and fixed all the associated wiring to get it running again, then hammered on it for a few months to get it running as best I could and caught up on...

Get an FJ62 hand throttle and manufacturer excuses to use it.

Make sure you put some never seize in the the bores of those new spring plates or you may wind up recreating the PO's fix for stripped out bolt holes. If I had it do over again I'd be welding a long bolt under there too. In all my years wrenching this one PITA shock mounting setups I've encountered.

O'Reilly's clearance section and duct tape has you covered.

Get yourself a tub of black moly grease and a brush. It'll look shiny black and not rusty, problems solved (until you hit a dirt road). I mean the only places on my truck that aren't rusty are adjacent to where it developed oil leaks. Lol Jokes aside, do like others have said and remove all...

For capping the heater core can you also get 5/8 vacuum caps from O'Reilly's/etc that'll work perfect. I think I've always just ran a loop of extra hose between the inlet and outlet, but most vehicles I've done it they were side by side so it was just a short loop.

Looking forward to seeing how you get along with this. Good luck with the build.

Or you can go to your local hardware store, get some 5/8 heater hose a few brass fittings and hose clamps, disconnect the factory supply and return lines either side of the heater core, splice in that new extra hose, wash your hands and finish your beer.

Well despite the low likelihood, in my esteem, this POS made it to the rally, through the rally, and all the way back home. God I hate it, and now since it's proven itself I'm going to have to put some more work and effort into it per the DeepBarney Beater-car Bylaws. It's racked up over 3400...

Despite the low likelihood, in my esteem, this POS made it to the rally, through the rally, and all the way back home. God I hate it, and now since it's proven itself I'm going to have to put some more work and effort into it per the DeepBarney Beater-car Bylaws. It's racked up over 3400 fairly...