Recent content by 570aus

Hi. On the problematic side - when you said you saw corrosion, i assume that was between the connectors when you pulled them apart right? So what about behind the big block connector itself (i.e. you need to remove it from where its attached to the sill/pillar area altogether and get behind it...

Ive responded to your post here with a definitive way to rule out whether your RSE module is defective or not (looping out the most to the RSE, using a temporary bypass test - see photo in the post)...

The only way to know for sure if your rear seat entertainment is an issue or not (despite the diagnostic menu), is to temporarily loop it out at the brown MOST connector. Even for a basic test, you dont need to cut any wiring up etc. If you unplug the brown MOST connector going to the RSE...

Thank you so much for the effort. Ill take a better look, but wow thats more complex than id expected 😄 🤣

Maybe ill put a video when it happens next. Its a 2012 not sure if the dash is different to other years. But if you put the shifter into normal Drive (D) , what happens on yours if you press the plus or minus on the paddle shifter

Panasonic make them. Mustnt be what they used to be. If anyone has one removed eventually would love an inside pcb view and some up close shots. If i can see what type of components and layout it uses id know if its something that MAY be repairable diy (im guessing its a power circuit issue...

Hi guys Wondering if anyone has ever had this issue before Intermittently, mostly on a cold startup, put shifter into DRIVE and as driven along its in D - 1 (as though its in manual mode). The only way to get it back into normal drive mode is to shift it to SPORTS + - on the shifter, then back...

Its actually my friends vehicle he lives about an hour away. I wish id pulled his module out and opened it up to have a look at the board and run some tests

Sorry just saw this. It will likely be the module at fault. We just left it looped out in the end

First thing id check are the two fuse boxes under the drivers and passengers side - look for any 15A MIR fuses and also check any 7.5 ACC fuses. The main mirror control functions require both these fuses not to be blown (one is +12 one is ACC + for the mirror circuit) Secondly, Id check all...

Photo as example from another page https://tnstatic.net/attachments/img_5868-jpg.1058975/ The very bottom left large pin/s. The one I had fixed : very bottom left of this connector, two largest male pins were snapped off. From the rear of the connector, the two wires which led to these pins...

As mentioned above Take the kick panel off 3 big junction wiring blocks Unbolt them apart and best to pull the whole housing out too to get to the rear half of those wiring blocks. Youll need to unbolt the plastic casing housing those connectors with 1x bolt, from inner fender and unclip it as...

The first can should be plenty as an all in one on its own, it cleans and protects , similar to the stuff i used.

I just use deox d5 (or maybe its r5 i gotta check can) which leaves a film/coating remaining after, but yeah im sure thatd be good too

Also if you do a code clear in those menus and re run the test, do all the same come right back or only some