distributer 180? off

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destin

destin

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Apr 21, 2009
Threads
105
Messages
3,573
Location
portland or
Hi guys

Had new motor installed, was tuning and chanign the points, and a damn screw fell in the distributer, so i had to pull it.

Sorted it popped it back in all good, turned the motor off, and as i was tightening the advance retard handle to lock it in place, some old dude started me as i was bent over the hood and i dislodged the distributer, no biggy.

One this that did happen was the side negative coil wire that connects to the side of the distrubuter, was brittle and broke so I had to splice it together... ( which could be my problem.)

But to make a long story short i put the distributer in both ways ( rotor shaft that sinks into the oil pump one way and the other ) Both ways will not start, one turned over and caused a back pop outta the tail pipe, the other outta the carb...

I made sure the distributor was seated completely both times )

So is it that i just need to replace the negative coil wire from the coil to the side of the distributor?

Is there a way the flywheel and the oil pump cog can get out of sync ( truck rolled an inch when the distributor was out cause the old man leaned on the truck cause ing it to roll :)

so negative coil wire?
distributor 180?
something outa sync?

Sorry if this sounds dumb but I cannot figure it out

thanks!
 
destin said:
Is there a way the flywheel and the oil pump cog can get out of sync ( truck rolled an inch when the distributor was out cause the old man leaned on the truck cause ing it to roll :)
Click to expand...


Yup, easy. The dizzy keeps the sync between the cam gear and the oil pump. Your dizzy could be off by one tooth on the cam gear...not hard to fix though.
 
Pighead said:
Yup, easy. The dizzy keeps the sync between the cam gear and the oil pump. Your dizzy could be off by one tooth on the cam gear...not hard to fix though.
Click to expand...

ok cool, how on earth to I realign it?

so not the negative coil wire form the coil to the side of the distributor,

but rather

the dizzy and the cam gear are out of sync from the truck rolling with the distributor out?

it is an f135 motor btw

crap I knew that old man was trouble!

:D
 
Go back to F engine 101...set initial timing.
Make engine at TDC #1 intake stroke, install dizzy so that rotor points in the general direction of sparkplug #4, install cap so that plug wire to #1 sparkplug is right next to rotor. Easy.
 
ok soooo

( bear with me )

1 )pull spark plug number one out, turn the motor over by hand, from the fan blade untill i feel compression stroke in number one sparkplug hole.

2) keep turning over the motor by hand till the needle and the ball bering on the fly wheel are centered.

3) drop the distributer in so the rotor is point at number 1 ( might need to manually turn the oil pump with long screw diver to get things to align? )

then make sure the distributer is settled, tighten and adjust the timing with the light?

Thanks again man, let me know if this is correct ( not sure what you meant by sparkplug 4 )
 
one more dumb question...

is advance when the ball bearing on the flywheel is to the left or the right of the needle through the timing whole on the bell housing ( I think it is when the bearing is slightly to the left of the needle but want to be sure )
 
No.
Pull the valve cover. You CAN find #1 TDC with the sparkhole trick, but you would like to be sure and do it right this time. Watch the rockers over cylinder #1 when they both come up all the way, and the pushrods under them feel loose, look for the mark coming up on the flywheel
The timing mark you want is the line on the flywheel for TDC
The ball bearing is 7 degrees BEFORE TDC.
Center the ball in the window with the timing light for the Factory timing
The rotor traditionally points at sparkplug #4 ON THE HEAD. Sparkplug WIRE #1(in the dizzy cap) is positioned over the rotor. So that the electricity from the rotor goes to sparkplug #1.
Do you have a brother named Badass?



destin said:
ok soooo

( bear with me )

1 )pull spark plug number one out, turn the motor over by hand, from the fan blade untill i feel compression stroke in number one sparkplug hole.

2) keep turning over the motor by hand till the needle and the ball bering on the fly wheel are centered.

3) drop the distributer in so the rotor is point at number 1 ( might need to manually turn the oil pump with long screw diver to get things to align? )

then make sure the distributer is settled, tighten and adjust the timing with the light?

Thanks again man, let me know if this is correct ( not sure what you meant by sparkplug 4 )
Click to expand...
 
Pighead said:
No.
Pull the valve cover. You CAN find #1 TDC with the sparkhole trick, but you would like to be sure and do it right this time. Watch the rockers over cylinder #1 when they both come up all the way, and the pushrods under them feel loose, look for the mark coming up on the flywheel
The timing mark you want is the line on the flywheel for TDC
The ball bearing is 7 degrees BEFORE TDC.
Center the ball in the window with the timing light for the Factory timing
The rotor traditionally points at sparkplug #4 ON THE HEAD. Sparkplug WIRE #1(in the dizzy cap) is positioned over the rotor. So that the electricity from the rotor goes to sparkplug #1.
Do you have a brother named Badass?
Click to expand...

right on, I was hoping I would not have to pop the valve cover, I hope that is not to hard to put back on properly :)

I have a brother named Roger, he is a diesel mechanic :)
Dunno is he has the handle Badass :D
 
wow

Destin, the saga continues! sorry man. The bright side for me is that when I start putting mine back together all I have to do is search your threads and I think all the bad luck items and solutions can be found there.:D

And any time I had to "zero" things out I always pulled the valve cover. It was just easier for me that way.
 
Icantdive55 said:
Destin, the saga continues! sorry man. The bright side for me is that when I start putting mine back together all I have to do is search your threads and I think all the bad luck items and solutions can be found there.:D

And any time I had to "zero" things out I always pulled the valve cover. It was just easier for me that way.
Click to expand...

no worries this saga is my own fault hehe :D

I will sort it, just when I think I am figuring s*** out I learn a little more to get myself in trouble :D

rinse and repeat!

hopefully i can sort this out tomorrow :)
 
ok pulled plug one felt the compression up until it stopped and rotated till I saw the bearing align with th needle in the window ( did not pull the valve cover, but will this weekend and prolly teach my self how to adjust the valves )

runs ok, some sputter at low rpms, but only in first, power is not perfect yet, might need some tuning , but it might be my janky carb

so the way I did ok, or would it be best to pull the valve cover and so it proper ( I am guessing yes )

running cheap spark plugs now, but will pop in better ones when they show up at toyota tomorrow :)

any pointers guys?

:D
 
I would have followed Pighead's advice and aligned the distributor using the TDC line rather than the ball, but that shouldn't screw with much if you then used your timing light.

I have found my single barrel carbs sputter less (at my elevation of 5000 ft) with a little richer idle mixture (screw out more) than the standard one and a half turns out. There's really not a lot of tuning you can do to these carbs assuming the float is right in the site glass.

How's your dwell angle now?

I hope you have a torque wrench. You should. You should retorque your head bolts (95 lbs) and your rocker support bolts and nuts: groove side 15 lbs, other side 19 ft-lbs. Then (engine fully warmed up) go through with a go/no gauge gauge and set your exhaust valve lashes to 14 and intake valve lashes to 10 thousandths.
 
Pin_Head said:
There is more than one way to do it and they are all good. Now that it runs, just put a timing light on it and set the timing, then complete the tune up by adjusting the valves (if they haven't been adjusted lately) idle mix and speed and you are done.
Click to expand...

awesome guys thanks :D

Rebuilding an extra carb soon, to get rid of the potentially warp wonkey one :D

Will do the valves and s***e this weekend, and up the idle mixture screw!

:D
 
IDave said:
I would have followed Pighead's advice and aligned the distributor using the TDC line rather than the ball, but that shouldn't screw with much if you then used your timing light.

I have found my single barrel carbs sputter less (at my elevation of 5000 ft) with a little richer idle mixture (screw out more) than the standard one and a half turns out. There's really not a lot of tuning you can do to these carbs assuming the float is right in the site glass.

How's your dwell angle now?

I hope you have a torque wrench. You should. You should retorque your head bolts (95 lbs) and your rocker support bolts and nuts: groove side 15 lbs, other side 19 ft-lbs. Then (engine fully warmed up) go through with a go/no gauge gauge and set your exhaust valve lashes to 14 and intake valve lashes to 10 thousandths.
Click to expand...

dwell angle is at 40, point gap is .016" ( lowered gap to get the dwell in proper cam angle ) spark plugs are gapped at .033" :)

Timing is set with the timing light, the bearing bounces a few degree center and left to right of the needle, but as centered as I can get it :)

I think I have the mixture screw about 3.5 turns out, throttle adjustment just barely turned, engine idles at about 550 rpms... vacuum at 18 pounds at idle...

So back out the idle mixture screw a little more?

Thanks guys!
 
destin said:
right on, I was hoping I would not have to pop the valve cover, I hope that is not to hard to put back on properly :)

I have a brother named Roger, he is a diesel mechanic :)
Dunno is he has the handle Badass :D
Click to expand...

There's no need to remove the valve cover and check the rockers when you can do it with a finger over the spark plug hole!
 
right on :)

ok so was out driving and fine tuning s***e, but my water temp guage went up to about an eight inch from "h" for hot...

I was in traffic and it is hot out... but i do no think it should be that high... water pump fail? bad thermostat ( thermo is new )

I opened the radiator and it was full, not boiling or hot to the touch or anything...

whats the deal ya think>? i ordered a new water pump just in case, and gaskets.

On the up side i noticed the PCV tube came unscrewed from the carb riser/ insulator, and tightened that up and the truck seem to stumble less :D

I hook up the vacuum gauge later tomorrow when the engine is not hot and see if it made a difference... Can you guys give me the low down on my hot motor problem?
 
My wires from the temp sender came off of the clips, and melted on the manifold. Temp showed HOT, but wasn't. repaired wires, and got them back up on the clips....reading good again.
 
destin said:
I opened the radiator and it was full, not boiling or hot to the touch or anything...
Click to expand...
Holy craptola man, be careful. A properly running engine will still cause a hot gusher of coolant if the pressure is released at the radiator cap.

I'd say stuck thermostat, even if new (what temp thermo?). Your rad is cool, so no hot water is getting to it (top hose). Even if the water pump was bad (which it still might be), there would be some circulation into the rad eventually, unless you didn't run it for that long (but it sounds like you did). Of course we're assuming the hoses are connected properly (kind of hard not to do).

Did you properly "burp" the coolant system (run with the rad cap off until you see coolant bubbling and/or overflowing, shouldn't last long but you need to get the air out of the system. Do you have a heater w/hoses? That needs to be bled too.
 
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