Converting a Bandsaw from Wood to Metal! (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 13, 2005
Threads
8
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69
Location
So Cal
Website
www.toyland4x4.com
I dont do alot of fabrication at home but enough that I wanted something a little bit easier and not as loud as a cutoff wheel or grinder. I always wanted a metal cutting bandsaw but they are expensive except the little HF ones. I also wanted to be able to cut other things as well like wood or foam or whatever. So I kept my eye out and got an old Rockwell vertical bandsaw locally for 50 bucks!
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It was in good shape and worked, its not the oldest style with a beefier frame but it will do what I need.
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Now I heard that you could use a treadmill motor and variable speed drive that comes on them to convert a wood bandsaw to go slow enough for metal. I found a 1.5HP 90VDC motor , transformer and variable speed controller from a treadmill on Epay for 50 bucks! You could probably troll garage sales and get one for next to nothing.
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The old 1/3hp AC motor just mounts on a pivoting plate under the saw. I took it off and the DC motor bolted right in. It even had the right size pulley on it.
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You can see a little set screw on the pulley. You can adjust the pulley about 2 inches on the shaft to line up with your saws pully where you need it.

Now this controller was small enough to mount in a regular handy box from a hardware store. I got a blank cover for it to mount the speed control (potentiometer) in. The card has L1 and L2 pins on it. this is where you hook up the 120VAC. I got an 8 foot pigtail from the same hardware store and a 1/2inch compression fitting for the handy box to put the cord in. Now there are 2 more pins on the card that say A1 and A2, this is where the DC motor hooks into. But you have to have 1 of the DC motor wires go through the transformer before it plugs into the card. I think it can be either one because I tried it both ways and it worked. Now the 2 wires can go to A1 and A2. To make the motor go CW or CCW just switch the A1 and A2 wires. I ran the 8 foot pigtail and the 2 DC motor wires through the 1/2 inch comprssion fitting and into the handy box. I grounded the pigtail ground wire to one of the screws that I used to mount the box to the saw leg.
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The transformer I mounted on the saw leg across from the handy box. Now the DC motor also has a ground wire and I ground that wire to one of the screws I used to mount the transformer.
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Here is the handy box mounted with the speed control mounted on the cover. The DC motor has what I think is a small balancer and fan on this end. I think I will take off the fan but leave the balancer. I will make a guard for this end of the motor.
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Here is the finished saw! (except for the guard) It doesn't look much different than it did.
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When you plug it in the motor doesn't even move till you turn the dial a little bit. You can go from 0 to 4800 RPM!! A DC motor has the about the same torque at any RPM so you can slow down to do metal (with a metal blade). I put on a blade that had about 14 teeth per inch and it went right through this 1/8 x 1 1/2bar.
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If I pushed real hard I could bog down the motor but I just let the blade do the job and it went through real nice. If I was converting a full size wood saw I would probably use a bigger HP DC motor. Any way good luck on your project!
 
Nice! Now you can build an Adam Bomb or maybe build me a bumper. Danny just picked up a MIG for cheap.
 
:beer:


I have an old wood bandsaw that I was considering converting.. I love the variable speeds. But, to be really trick you gotta set up the digital display so it varies the speeds on you ;)
 
Nice work! nice saw,


One thing I would add is a cover above the motor that extends further than it all around, maybe in a gable shape so that that motor does not ingest shavings, i would leave the fan for cooling.
 
Nice conversion and write up. Thanks.

Plus...a lot cheaper than a store bought metal cutting saw.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay_10551_10001_44133_______14151|14192|14200|44133?listingPage=true
 
off to find a treadmill to convert the drill press to a VSD....

Excellent info, thanks.
 
Great info!
I have 2 wood cutting bandsaws and have been looking to get a metal cutting one but now I guess I dont need to look any more.Thanks
 
I'm thinking of doing the same...very timely article!

Could you have installed different pulleys to slow down the blade speed instead of replacing the motor? JK
 
I'm thinking of doing the same...very timely article!

Could you have installed different pulleys to slow down the blade speed instead of replacing the motor? JK


you can use a jackshaft setup or a around a 20-1 speed reducer which are on epay from time to time.
 
I thought I would bring this back up to the top. I still have not done it (time flys by!) but wanted to see if anybody else has.
 
Thank You Toyland4x4, for a great write up
&
Thank You KT40, For bringing this up

I'm going to give it a shot.
 
Nice, Be sure tp run slow, if you can liquid cool the blade it will last a lot longer. Also always use eye protection. I used to work at AFCO Steel. Mike
 
Very cool. Is there such a device that could plug into the motor on the bandsaw that could slow it down? I'm using a 14" delta with a metal cutting blade. It's fast and can only use it for sheet metal right now.
 
Just put in an inline rheostat in, not the best solution...but a solution.
 
Check your pulleys on the drive motor and band . You can get smaller ones to fit the motor and larger ones for the band. Delta uses std pulley sizes(at least mine does), so you should be able to get locally. You might also check their drill press pulleys-they are multi-use(have 4 sizes on the same shaft)
 

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