x (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Mace, thank you VERY much for the input. One last question. How big would you do the lower links?

Gumby, I did notice you used the same style of suspension on your 55 project. Any comments on yours? Anything you would do different in the front?

Nope. I like the way my front works. I could have tucked the lowers up more, but the rears hang in the same place and I really don't have issues. I keep meaning to flat belly between the two. One of these days.
 
a funky custom driveshaft would be cheaper(two piece or double CV style)
:lol::lol::lol: That is pretty funny, John

Many if not a majority of the most expensive and well-engineered Ultra-4 cars use two-piece drive shafts to solve the very problem you are facing. I would hesitate to call them "funky". Below is an example of John Reynold's UFO car from the Pirate board.

If your T-case is angled up at 6-7 degrees, you could run a two-piece shaft with no more than 3-3.5 degrees angle on any of the u-joints -- and that is without tilting the front pinion at all.
JRRearShaft.jpg
 
John, how long is your current front ds?
 
3 Link --

Well it sounds like you are getting lots of good advice about your driveshaft. I had to do a CV driveshaft when I did mine. I don't have any vibration or binding problems.

When you are doing your 3 link, double and triple check your caster. It can make a huge difference in drivability. If you do have to rotate your 60, you will probably have to cut and turn it as well.

I learned a lot while, during and after doing my 3 link. I would definitely do a 3 link front, just because a 4 link makes packaging hard. I used Johnny Joints in my links with the long shank so that I could adjust the length. I would try and keep the links as long as possible.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom