Wit's End Turbo Owners - Thread #2..... (10 Viewers)

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Maybe I missed it, but where is this Bell intercooler designed to be located?
All I saw was “z direction”, no idea what that means.

AtoA, water cooled, size/capacity, location, ideal temp lowering?
 
Maybe I missed it, but where is this Bell intercooler designed to be located?
All I saw was “z direction”, no idea what that means.

AtoA, water cooled, size/capacity, location, ideal temp lowering?
It would be located on above the valve cover, centered between the turbo outlet and the throttle body inlet. That is a very narrow space vertically, which is what z direction refers to, the distance from the top of the valve cover to the hood and how much of that distance this intercooler would occupy.
 
Obviously would require more ducting, but wouldn’t be much more betterer if it was out in front of the radiator?

As opposed to directly above engine, it must be the warmest part the engine bay.

Especially AtoW is utilized, less ducting.

Flame away, I have zero experience with intercoolers. But did mount a front intercooler on my Subaru build, as opposed to the OEM intercooler that was above the engine with a huge hood scoop for draft.
 
Obviously would require more ducting, but wouldn’t be much more betterer if it was out in front of the radiator?

As opposed to directly above engine, it must be the warmest part the engine bay.

Especially AtoW is utilized, less ducting.

Flame away, I have zero experience with intercoolers. But did mount a front intercooler on my Subaru build, as opposed to the OEM intercooler that was above the engine with a huge hood scoop for draft.
The intercooler being discussed is an air to water design, similar in concept to what Landtank did with the supercharger More moving parts than an air to air intercooler, but, it does allow for positioning of the intercooler in the optimum location to avoid pressure drop and complex ducting. The water lines are far smaller than air ducting would be, making it easier to route to the area behind the grill. The system has to be sized appropriately, as it is a system, so the intercooler, radiator, expansion tank, and pump all need to be sized to work together with the flow rate the engine will have.
 
The intercooler being discussed is an air to water design, similar in concept to what Landtank did with the supercharger More moving parts than an air to air intercooler, but, it does allow for positioning of the intercooler in the optimum location to avoid pressure drop and complex ducting. The water lines are far smaller than air ducting would be, making it easier to route to the area behind the grill. The system has to be sized appropriately, as it is a system, so the intercooler, radiator, expansion tank, and pump all need to be sized to work together with the flow rate the engine will have.
Good explanation!
Obviously would require more ducting, but wouldn’t be much more betterer if it was out in front of the radiator?

As opposed to directly above engine, it must be the warmest part the engine bay.

Especially AtoW is utilized, less ducting.

Flame away, I have zero experience with intercoolers. But did mount a front intercooler on my Subaru build, as opposed to the OEM intercooler that was above the engine with a huge hood scoop for draft.

Essentially an air-air type is using the heat exchange of cross flow air across the intercooler (similar to how a radiator functions, but in this case your fluids are both air). In a subaru build like that you likely ran a FMIC (front mount intercooler) since you were running 14+psi of boost at a minimum. When you have a high charge pressure you can get away with the longer ducting and the pressure drop is not as severe. Most do not choose to use an air/water setup in subarus due to the use case.
In our use case the cruiser will be under boost at highway speeds, but also low speed off roading. In the latter situation you lost the majority of your cooling air volume that would be acting as your cooling fluid due to slow speeds.
The air/water functions in a similar way but uses a closed water loop separate from the motors coolant. Water is a much more efficient heat transfer method and can be packaged in a much smaller intercooler for similar results. Also since in this application we have such low boost, the more charge pipe (post turbo outlet, pre throttle body) length, the more boost drop you experience. Typically the lower the total boost, the more noticeable that boost drop is. On my built 22 PSI forester its not a noticeable issue.

What I'm planning for this is something that will sit above the valve cover like mentioned above/similar to @landtank. One of his is up for sale right now and I was debating using it as a starting point, but think that i'd just end up completly cutting it apart anyway due to the throttle body location difference on a supercharged FZ. I have not yet decided if it will clock the turbo to add in the X dimension for size, and/or what shape of IC i'd like to use. I am planning on TIG welding V bands onto the turbo outlet and the throttle body to aid in rigidity and will likely also run all hard piping. I'm going to use a grill mounted heat exhchanger of some shape with a water temp triggered electric fan.
This project needs to happen in the next 10 weeks. My cruiser has NO drivetrain in it right now and I'm driving it to Prudhoe bay on July 15th.
My new block will be here soon and i'm going to try and start mocking this up when it arrives and I can build that up.
Game on!
 
Hello all, been reading everywhere and can't seem to find what I am looking for. Can someone take a picture of the bellhousing clamp/bracket set-up on their rig? For the life of me, I can't seem to make it line up in a way that fits, and my arms are tired from messing around with it. I am so close to being done...
 
Hello all, been reading everywhere and can't seem to find what I am looking for. Can someone take a picture of the bellhousing clamp/bracket set-up on their rig? For the life of me, I can't seem to make it line up in a way that fits, and my arms are tired from messing around with it. I am so close to being done...
As I recall, I had to use a longer bolt to then "deform in place" the tab to fit the bracket on the bell housing. It needed to twist and flex to fit the bracket. Two pictures below. Let me know if you need different angles.

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1713110446483.png
 
As I recall, I had to use a longer bolt to then "deform in place" the tab to fit the bracket on the bell housing. It needed to twist and flex to fit the bracket. Two pictures below. Let me know if you need different angles.
You are my hero. Answers my question of if the bracket stays flat or is bent. So did you bend it some before getting it in by chance?
 
You are my hero. Answers my question of if the bracket stays flat or is bent. So did you bend it some before getting it in by chance?
I think I used a longer bolt to deform it. But now that I know it needs to be bent, I would twist it a bit before install.
 
Alright everyone, I am finally to the point I am ready to fire up after install. My only hang up is my exhaust. For the life of me, I could not get the exhaust to line up with the downpipe. Am I ok to drive the car without it attached for any length of time if I am very conservative? Like, just to get to the exhaust shop, or should I just put it on a trailer? This would mean the O2 sensors would not be reading obviously.

Also, on a related note... If I don't plan on putting cats back in, would that be an issue? How would running the two O2 sensors without cat's affect the overall operation related to the turbo? Open to thoughts from the guys who are more educated on this than myself. Thanks!
 
I taped mine up with HVAC tape (the shiny, metal-like tape) and drove about 14 miles (25 minutes) to get to the muffler shop. I just took it real easy and didn't have any issues. The tape kinda worked - it wasn't fully intact when I got there.
 
I taped mine up with HVAC tape (the shiny, metal-like tape) and drove about 14 miles (25 minutes) to get to the muffler shop. I just took it real easy and didn't have any issues. The tape kinda worked - it wasn't fully intact when I got there.
Yeah... That won't work for me lol. I might have gotten pretty liberal with trying to make it work. The gap is quite large. And it never lined up close enough anyway.
 
Does anyone have the wastegate or turbo blankets on their rigs? If so, could you get the part numbers off the black tags? I reached out to PTP to order a new downpipe blanket as its disintegrated over the last few years.
 
Does anyone have the wastegate or turbo blankets on their rigs? If so, could you get the part numbers off the black tags? I reached out to PTP to order a new downpipe blanket as its disintegrated over the last few years.
I’ll grab the number off the turbo blanket when I get a chance. Also interested in the downpipe number. Any idea what the cost on either is?
 
I need a downpipe blanket…if it helps make up numbers to get a run going into production
 
Ask them if they have the part number and can make the banana hammock as well. I ordered one from Joey last year but got stiffed instead.
 
Ask them if they have the part number and can make the banana hammock as well. I ordered one from Joey last year but got stiffed instead.
That’s what I was asking for (wastegate blanket). Just need a part number off one. I can’t find the PTP info anywhere on here so far. I’m planning on asking to order all 3. If others are serious, pm me and I can ask about cost per unit.
 

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