g-man
SILVER Star
I recently put fj62 Power locks on my 60.
I use the universal car remote below to actuate the locks. Just to be clear I did not install any other auto lock buttons, or any 62 wiring harness. The 62 actuators, lock mechanisms and the short linkage between them are needed. The manual locks and key still work to lock and unlock the doors manually. Only the remote will work the actuators. There is a slight difference in lock mechanisms between the 60 and the 62. They both fit the welded nuts on the door but the 62 mechanism has a lever and short lever attached that attaches to the linkage then power actuators. All the other 60 door linkage will attach to the 62 lock mechanism. I mean the linkage that goes to the inner handle and lock knob. So you can still work the manual lock knob, the door release inside and out and the key. The 60 doors will have welded nuts inside the door for mounting the 62 lock actuators. Here is the key-less remote I installed to actuate the locks:
Universal Car Remote Central Kit Door Lock Locking Vehicle Keyless Entry System
for $12.20 includes shipping, remotes, main unit box. everything pictured here
And here I show which method is used to wire the key-less entry to the locks:
Then used the "Positive and Negative trigger" wiring scheme for the central locking system. It's pictured here bottom right in this
schematic:
Both Orange wires together with the black go to ground screw under dash. Yellow wires and red positive go together and to a hot on the fuse panel. Whites go to the lock actuators. Each door will have 2 wires running to the white wires. One will go to the solid white and one to the white/black stripe. I used a 4 to 1 shove in-wire connector to connect all the wires coming from the locks to the white wires. I mounted the keyless lock system on the lower dash "shelf" under the fuse box. Most of the wiring gets tucked behind the kick panel.
At the other end (in the doors at the lock actuators) I crimped on female spade terminals and pushed them on the male spade terminals on the actuators. Don't worry if you're not sure if it's on the negative or positive side of the connection. After connecting both wires to an actuator, work the remote and if they are backwards simply reverse the wires on the connectors. Do this one at a time after you connect the up and down white wire to each actuator. The wires reverse polarity. This means that in the lock position one wire is positive and unlocking that same wire becomes the ground. The remote key fobs do come with batteries included.
Then when hooking the brown wires up to the turn signals wires one brown wire back fed current through the box causing bleed over problems when using the turn signals. so I used this diode in the one brown wire:
NEW BUSSMANN DIODE MINI FUSE 22903-6 6A A AMP
and bought this off ebay to put it in:
In-Line Car Mini Blade Fuse Holder Waterproof 18AWG Upto 15A 12V/24V/32V DC
The horn wire won't work with the land cruiser horn circuit because the Cruiser horn circuit is negatively switched. I left it unhooked.
There is a cool flashing blue led that I ran to the top of the dash, wedged between the dash and the windshield. Looks like it's armed when in the lock position. but no alarm.
You will need plenty of small gauge wire (think I used 18g) to run to the actuators.
Also a small hole must be drilled in the rear door where it meets the b post. There is already a hole and grommet in the B post to run the wire through. 62 doors already have a hole and rubber grommet/plug here.
I use the universal car remote below to actuate the locks. Just to be clear I did not install any other auto lock buttons, or any 62 wiring harness. The 62 actuators, lock mechanisms and the short linkage between them are needed. The manual locks and key still work to lock and unlock the doors manually. Only the remote will work the actuators. There is a slight difference in lock mechanisms between the 60 and the 62. They both fit the welded nuts on the door but the 62 mechanism has a lever and short lever attached that attaches to the linkage then power actuators. All the other 60 door linkage will attach to the 62 lock mechanism. I mean the linkage that goes to the inner handle and lock knob. So you can still work the manual lock knob, the door release inside and out and the key. The 60 doors will have welded nuts inside the door for mounting the 62 lock actuators. Here is the key-less remote I installed to actuate the locks:
Universal Car Remote Central Kit Door Lock Locking Vehicle Keyless Entry System
for $12.20 includes shipping, remotes, main unit box. everything pictured here
And here I show which method is used to wire the key-less entry to the locks:
Then used the "Positive and Negative trigger" wiring scheme for the central locking system. It's pictured here bottom right in this
schematic:
Both Orange wires together with the black go to ground screw under dash. Yellow wires and red positive go together and to a hot on the fuse panel. Whites go to the lock actuators. Each door will have 2 wires running to the white wires. One will go to the solid white and one to the white/black stripe. I used a 4 to 1 shove in-wire connector to connect all the wires coming from the locks to the white wires. I mounted the keyless lock system on the lower dash "shelf" under the fuse box. Most of the wiring gets tucked behind the kick panel.
At the other end (in the doors at the lock actuators) I crimped on female spade terminals and pushed them on the male spade terminals on the actuators. Don't worry if you're not sure if it's on the negative or positive side of the connection. After connecting both wires to an actuator, work the remote and if they are backwards simply reverse the wires on the connectors. Do this one at a time after you connect the up and down white wire to each actuator. The wires reverse polarity. This means that in the lock position one wire is positive and unlocking that same wire becomes the ground. The remote key fobs do come with batteries included.
Then when hooking the brown wires up to the turn signals wires one brown wire back fed current through the box causing bleed over problems when using the turn signals. so I used this diode in the one brown wire:
NEW BUSSMANN DIODE MINI FUSE 22903-6 6A A AMP
and bought this off ebay to put it in:
In-Line Car Mini Blade Fuse Holder Waterproof 18AWG Upto 15A 12V/24V/32V DC
The horn wire won't work with the land cruiser horn circuit because the Cruiser horn circuit is negatively switched. I left it unhooked.
There is a cool flashing blue led that I ran to the top of the dash, wedged between the dash and the windshield. Looks like it's armed when in the lock position. but no alarm.
You will need plenty of small gauge wire (think I used 18g) to run to the actuators.
Also a small hole must be drilled in the rear door where it meets the b post. There is already a hole and grommet in the B post to run the wire through. 62 doors already have a hole and rubber grommet/plug here.
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