Builds Whitey Forty - Tilda Bogue Service Station (8 Viewers)

[thatcabledude]

For the alternator i just use a small socket and builb in line at the exit of the alternator

^That

Or wire the resistor inline on the switched ignition source wire

 

[wngrog]

^That

Or wire the resistor inline on the switched ignition source wire

I honestly don’t know what kind of bulb yall are talking about. Remember, I’m a salesman not a mechanic.

 

[wngrog]

Always love a good before/after

 

[wngrog]

The owner came out after work to today and we took it out for a drive. He’s happy. I’m happy. We ran it around all the normal spots with no alternator charging. No problemo.

I’m going to do the power steering when I get back from vacation and I need to adjust the steering stops. It’s getting into the relay rod at full turn. I peeked at them and the stops are bent in from prior hard use.

The transmission is loud. Too loud. I’m going to finish it up next week and send it off for a stereo upgrade then I’m going to get @orangefj45 to build me a new setup and have it ready for warmer weather and I’ll swap it in, fix the rear main leak drip and put a new clutch in it. That way it’s 100% redone.

 

[wngrog]

As for the alternator. I’m going to pull it out and get it tested. I have a FJ60 reman inbound I’ll install if it checks out bad. 55 amps is 100% plenty for a 40

 

[whitey45]

Road testing whitey!!! Hope it went well

 

[jim land]

I honestly don’t know what kind of bulb yall are talking about. Remember, I’m a salesman not a mechanic.

Any small bulb will work , i use one from a used car turn signal or marker light , small generic from auto parts store is also good

 

[jim land]

This is my junk

 

[RevISK]

So, if the bulb is on your alternator is working?
That’s interesting.

 

[pb4ugo]

1st i must say ive only used the earlier SI style gm alts and never wired up a cs130 style alt, and I'm no wiring wizard. If you run an alt charge wire straight to the batt like in the schematics in your post 172, then the white/Blue wire isn't used. When you run a wire from the large charging stud on the alt and go straight to the batt the ammeter won't work or register a reading. If it's a high amp alt you might consider bypassing the ammeter anyways. Imo, loosing the ammeter is a good thing. The alt needs 12 volts to one of the small terminals. The easiest location to get 12 volts is from the large stud on the alt going to the batt. The other small terminal is the excite terminal. It should act like a ground with the engine off and have 12 volts when its running. The excite wire gets an idiot light or resistor and gets its power from a hot circuit when the key is on. Most folks tie it into the ING circuit. If the wire didnt have a light or resistor the engine wouldn't turn off when you turn the key off because the alt is suppling 12volts thru the excite wire terminal feeding the ING circuit. You might try hooking up the excite wire without a light or resistor to a key ON accessory and not use the ING circuit. It might work. Those circuits turn off with the key and are separated from the ING circuit. If you dont use an excite wire you'll have to rev the engine to get the alt to start charging. Youll use the white/fusible link wire to the positive post on the batt. The batt now supplies power to the fuse box. Remember you read it on the internet.

 

[pb4ugo]

So, if the bulb is on your alternator is working?
That’s interesting.

No, the light comes on when the key is on and the engine is off or the alt fails or quits spinning. . The light goes out once the engine starts .

 

[1911]

When you run a wire from the large charging stud on the alt and go straight to the batt the ammeter won't work or register a reading. If it's a high amp alt you might consider bypassing the ammeter anyways. Imo, loosing the ammeter is a good thing.

^^ This. I replaced my ammeter with a voltmeter; a more useful gauge IMO.

my gauge cluster

• 1911
• Jan 8, 2018
• 1

 

[RevISK]

No, the light comes on when the key is on and the engine is off or the alt fails or quits spinning. . The light goes out once the engine starts .

Ah, that’s cool and seems like a useful thing.
I don’t think my ammeter has ever moved (50amp) so I really have no other way of knowing except my truck starts.

I like the idea of a voltmeter though. When working on vintage travel trailers, I would use a 12v meter that plugs into a 12v outlet/cigarette lighter to read the voltage. I’ll have to dig that up and try it on my rig.

 

[wngrog]

All you suggest, other than the bulb has been tried.

I’m on the BY external regulator wire which is triple checked to be getting switched 12 to the L plug on the alternator.

The Sniper readout has a Volt section. We drove it. Revved it and even jumped it yesterday and the thing never charged.



As I said before, I’m going to remove this thing and have it tested. In the mean time I’ll put a FJ60 alternator on it and hook it up the exact same way as this and it will work I’m sure.

There is really no way in my mind adding a bulb makes a difference here.

 

[wngrog]

Handy dandy

 

[John Smith]

If that alternator still has the S pin, when you head to the parts store, get a plug with the SFL wires. Connect the S wire to the output stud on the back of the alt and hook F wire to your black / yellow stripe you have verified 12V + key on. If that does not excite the alt, it is dead. My guess is that whatever internal wiring they did to make that a "1 wire alt" is broken.

 

[MOTOV8R]

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[thatcabledude]

Handy dandy

View attachment 3580068

An even quicker way to check if the alternator is functioning is touching the pully with a tool to see if the armature is magnetized.

 

[pb4ugo]

All you suggest, other than the bulb has been tried.

I’m on the BY external regulator wire which is triple checked to be getting switched 12 to the L plug on the alternator.

The Sniper readout has a Volt section. We drove it. Revved it and even jumped it yesterday and the thing never charged.



As I said before, I’m going to remove this thing and have it tested. In the mean time I’ll put a FJ60 alternator on it and hook it up the exact same way as this and it will work I’m sure.

There is really no way in my mind adding a bulb makes a difference here.

From searching around on info on the L terminal I think is for the excite wire which shouldn't have 12 volts. The terminal should be a ground with the engine off and have 12 volts with the alt/engine turning, which turns off the idiot light. The wire should have the idiot light or a resistor or possibly run without a resistor/light to a key ON accessory circuit that's not the ING.

 

[peesalot]

Hi Nolen, which booster & MC did you use here ?