Which oil are you using? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Nope. In fact is was a bit of an ordeal for me just to find some Penrite rubber grease.
 
Yeah right that sucks, I can't talk for all us Aussies but I reckon there's nothing better in diesel.
Though zinc isn't as important for diesel in Penrite's petroleum or gasoline (or whatever you guys called it) range the zinc rating is more than adequate.

Also they offer the 20/60 premium mineral for diesel which makes my old girl a happy happy truck.

 
Is there such a thing as too much Zinc? (I found one mention that "too much" could lead to MORE wear) Is adding too much additive a potential problem?

Does anyone have a method or formula for determining the ratio of a Zinc additive to oil, based on their zinc content levels, to obtain a "good" level of zinc?

Of no help are the Rislone "3X Concentrated Engine Oil Supplement with Zinc Treatment" instructions that say:
"GASOLINE ENGINES (Cars & Light Trucks)
1996 and older – Add one bottle to engine crankcase."
with no mention of crankcase volume...
 
More info to chew on.... from a vendor site that is, of course, trying to support the use of their product. This doesn't mean I think the info is bad or good, just consider the source when reading, as always.

http://zddplus.com/about-us/tech-briefs/
 
Yes, too much zinc or ZDDP is bad and can cause the same issues as too little. The composition and shape of the ZDDP molecule causes it, in too high a concentration, to "ball up" and not provide the "sheer film". What's too high? Dunno. But it's not gonna be if you're adding a bottle of one of the additives to 8 qts or two jugs of decent dino oil. I usually add half a bottle of high-dosage ZDDP and change the oil with low miles on it, but long months. I don't DD the cruisers.
 
Well, now I'm kind of sold on the additive idea. The point about oil losing zinc ppm after short usage is interesting.
Plus, I read the zplus site.
Seems that nearly all oils mentioned in this thread fall short on the additives.
If adding the zplus allows you to use Mobil 1, or Rotella or the others, then why not.

Here's another somewhat unrelated question. Why use Rotella if it's a diesel oil in gas engines.
 
This questions gets asked almost as much as, 'which oil are you running?' ...

Most diesel oils are rated for either SC or CC engines, Spark Combustion or Compression Combustion engines. Read the star-burst on the bottle.

The only thing that differs is usually the additive package since diesel oils have to suspend a lot more soot. Running Rotella T in a gasser 'cuz it's better than any of the other on the shelf gasser oils out there, for these engines.
 
I was using Rotella until I read the first 18 pages of this thread. Then I got concerned about the zinc and other additives.
But maybe I'll go back to Rotella and use the additives.
 
Rotella, Delo, Mobil or Crisco and a dash of ZDDP add should be fine. I personally think synthetics in these engines is a waste unless you live in an extreme climate or have a super modified 2F that puts out 600 HP. :deadhorse:
 
What about the 3FE's? Do I need to add ZDDP, or is it fine without it? Sorry if I missed the answer to this one in the previous 18 pages. o_O
 
It isn't that expensive really, a good Mobile 1 oil cost from 20$ a litre and up. That is expensive!
OEM filter is another 50$ at the stealership, cost to take care of these nice trucks, but it is also worth it :)
If I opted to cheap out I could had bought some cheap low quality 10w-30 mineral oil for about 6$ litre in 10L cans.



With such a low warm viscosity rating, don't you have trouble with well enough lubrication at engine running temperatures?
I know modern diesel engines starts to use long durability 0w-30 oil, but those engines also runs a lot more efficient and doesn't produce the same amount of heat. The 2AD-FHV (2.2L diesel) in my brothers Avensis uses 0w-30 Toyota oil at each change.

I'm pretty much convinced that all oil that is at operating temperature (200-250+ degrees F) have a very similar viscosity. What I have learned is that most engine damage occurs at start up, so an oil that is more like milk than syrup when cold is better. Thats why I prefer a semi synth, it is quite thin when cold and doesn't change viscosity much when hot. After reading the posts here, I will start to look for something with more zinc content, but will still stay with a semi synth. When I start the truck at -20* C (-4* F) using dino, I really hear the clack of the lifters, barely noticeable with the synth. A lot of guys posting here never see these temperatures, like you Lasse, -20 can be a very balmy day compared to -40 and a wind.
 
Yeah, it can get pretty cold here so a high viscosity oil at low temperatures are a god given gift
I thought the second number in the rating told how viscoses an oil are under high temperatures.

So low winter number combined with high second number would be the best combination, but also the toughest oil to produce.
ex. 0w-60
 
Sorry for the constant dumb questions on my part.
But I live in Connecticut.
The temp range in winter is about 15-45F. Rarely gets below 20 but it does sometimes.
What is the thickest oil you would run in winter?
Is 15W-50 too much?
Or the Rotella 15-40?
 
Sorry for the constant dumb questions on my part.
But I live in Connecticut.
The temp range in winter is about 15-45F. Rarely gets below 20 but it does sometimes.
What is the thickest oil you would run in winter?
Is 15W-50 too much?
Or the Rotella 15-40?
I run Mobil1 10w-40 with a bottle of ZDDP in the winter, and Mobil1 15w-50 with a bottle of ZDDP during the summer.
 
I thought the second number in the rating told how viscoses an oil are under high temperatures.
Sorry, not how viscoses, but how well it lubricates. A lower rated oil will loose its ability to lubricate at a lower temperature than a higher rated oil if I am not completely wrong.
What I believe is that a 10w-30 oil will be much thinner (to thin) to lubricate at a high temperatures than a 10w-60 oil will. It might not be a problem for a street car, but a race car would suffer or those of us running diesel turbo under high load on hills and that like. Or if you just push your car/truck hard.

I at least will stick to the Dynocat 5w-50 fully synthetic for a wile unless someone says I destroy my engine in the next couple of years.
 
After reading through this thread, I dumped Rotella 15-W40 into my 3FE along with a bottle of ZDDP+.

...and now your truck runs like it has 350hp? ;)

(By the way, that's what's in my 60)
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom