Wheel Bearing preload? - Meh (2 Viewers)

[timer00]

Just redid my bearing preload today using new washers/nuts.
Did the inner nut at 23-25lb/ft (beam type torque wrench)
and the outer to 42-45lb/ft.

Measured with my fish gauge for the heck of it and came out to 12-15lb/f

Did the 12/6 shake and its tight as a you know what so im very happy.

 

[hawaiicruz]

I like 20 and 50 but my spindles aren't perfect Running cool and tight at around 1k miles... I'm keeping my fingers crossed

 

[Dave 2000]

Over the years I have found one of the biggest problems is not caused by the technique that is in the FSM on how to reassemble but is often caused during the dismantling when people knock out the old bearing tracks. They leave a burr on the surface face where the new track is going to be installed against, they then fit and adjust the bearing as per FSM and all is well untill you get them loaded up on a few corners at speed and the aforementioned burrs 'give' and the track seats a little further into the hub you now have play which will bring on the wear/noise real quick!

Another problem I have found is the 'push and pull' at 6 and 12 with the wheel fitted is great for checking play but NOT after the brake pedal has been pumped and brought the pads in contact with the disc holding it in place, this leads you to think the play has been eliminated. I have been happy with the same method that I have used for many years, which is:

After double checking the bearing track mounting faces and de burring, I then ensure that the new tracks are down nice and tight, if your eyes are bad get glasses, if the light is bad get a decent torch you will be suprised how often there is a gap under a track caused by a burr or a small piece of grit. Once the races have been greased thoroughly and the hub is mounted properly and NOT wedged against the rear seal, again check the thrust washer for burrs ect. I then tighten the first nut whilst rotating the hub in the opposite direction and pull this down tight, sorry no torque figures just 'feel' but it is tight and the hub is binding. I then back off and then start to tighten in again whilst rotating but this time I stop and check for play with the wheel fitted at the 6 and 12 positions (no pads against the disc yet) and keep tightening untill there is zero play, now tighten further just one flat of the nut, fit the locking washer and tighten the outer nut untill it is nice and tight, although this final nut has been tightened again by 'feel' I have checked it with a torque wrench and it pretty much comes in at or around the FSM setting.

I have used this system on a V12 Jaguar I used to race and the only difference was I used to wipe out the mounting surface to track with solvent to ensure better heat transfer. Either way it has never failed to date.


regards

Dave

 

[LINUS]

Something else to keep in mind that I never see emphasized is the need to bend a tab of the star washer to each nut. The washer can't properly lock in & hold your torque value you set if you don't bend a tab in each direction.

I'd wager some of these bearing issues people have is the result of not properly beanding a tab to each nut, letting the preload value change as the nut backs off.

My opinion.

 

[Gumby]

I generally do 14 and 44lbs on the inner and outer. That would be ft/lbs, NOT nm. Preload is very important. You must get everything seated. It is important to get the races all the way down in the hubs as well.

40n/m is way too tight. You will burn up your bearings. Assuming, of course, that you properly pre-loaded them. If not, then who knows what your final torque actually is.

40n/m is fine on the outer. You really can't overtighten that as long as you dont spin the lock washer tab off. 45-50 ft/lbs will not do that. Too much more might.

 

[Tools R Us]

I agree that 40nm is likely tighter than necessary, but doubt it will do any harm. A couple have miss read the FSM and torqued both nuts to 47ft-lb and run them long term with zero damage. I did some playing and the rolling drag isn't really significant even at 60ft-lb?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...ront-wheel-bearing-preload-2.html#post5295151