Wheel Bearing preload? - Meh

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by rhyary, Jul 23, 2010.

  1. rhyary

    rhyary SILVER Star

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    So last Oct 2009 I did a full front axle service. Did not replace bearings as they are not that old.

    I went by the FSM to the latter, fish scale and all.

    Well this week when I did the front pads, I did a 12 and 6 check and, damn, there is a play in the wheel. Quick call to landtank confirmed wheel bearing preload, and not the trunnions. Phew.

    So yesterday I took the flange off and went after wheel bearing. This time I decided to ignore the FSM.
    I tightened the first nut as hard as I could moving the front hub every tightening. The FSM calls for 59nm. I went with at least 100 or 120nm torque.
    The hub had no difference in rotational resistance from nothing to 100nm torque.

    Released the nut, tighten by hand, and then preloaded it with 40nm. The FSM calls for 5.9nm.
    Locked it with the locking rings. Put the second nut and gave it 40nm as well.

    Now the steering is nice and tight. I am very curious to see what all this deviation from FSM will do, but at least it drive nicely.
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2010
  2. Cruiserdrew

    Cruiserdrew SILVER Star

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    THis has been discussed to death, but for years, many of us have ignored the FSM on this and simply tighten the inner nut to a specified torque, then set the outer nut and bend the tabs. It's much easier and far more repeatable.

    I just did a set last weekend on my FJ60 and used 10foot/pounds on the inner nut, tightened the outer nut and done.

    Doing it like this results in much less loosening and more long term happiness.

    I think ToolsRUS made the statement that higher preload (to a point) results in higher load carrying ability of the bearing set. That makes sense to me.
  3. rhyary

    rhyary SILVER Star

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  4. primer7

    primer7

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    Sparks, NV
    I'm on my 4th bearing re-adjustment/torque in so many weeks...started with FSM spec-bearings came loose, readjusted per FSM, bearings came loose...tried Landtanks 10ft/lb method, bearings came loose, this time adjusted with wheel on the hub and went with 20ft/lb...now we wait & see. Races seem to be seated, seal is good....:confused:
    IMG_1037.jpg IMG_1039.jpg
  5. Cruiserdrew

    Cruiserdrew SILVER Star

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    If yours is loosening like that, I would have a hard look at the spindle. I'll bet you will find the land where the outer bearing rides is worn on the bottom. If it's worn more than a bit, you will never get the bearings to preload properly and will have continuing problems.
  6. beno

    beno 33030-60450 Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    Just a bit tighter than the FSM works really good for me. I generally shoot for anywhere between 15-20ft/lbs. on the wheel bearings.
  7. bhmmapping

    bhmmapping SILVER Star

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    15-20 ft/lbs on the fish scale, or you torque the inner nut to that?
  8. beno

    beno 33030-60450 Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    With feel....ya kinda get used to knowing where the torque needs to be after doing these enough times.

    I've checked my "feel" method a few times afterwards, and most of the time it falls right between 15-20.
  9. Tapage

    Tapage Club 4X4 Panamá SILVER Star

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    I found myself tighten the outher double of the inner .. if I set the inner to 20 will go 40 on the outher bearing ..
  10. Here's what I did..

    1- Ignore the FSM..
    2- Tighten the inner nut ALL the way until you can no longer move the hub by hand. This step is VERY IMPORTANT to make sure that every component is well seated inside.
    3- Back-off the inner nut until completely loose, then tighten to 20 ft/lbs. I did the fish scale thing but later found no need for it if you follow the above procedure, it comes out right every time.
    4- Tighten the outer nut and the lock tab and be done with it..

    I have over 10,000 km on the truck since I did this and there's no play what-so-ever and the bearings are good and did not seize or whine. As a matter of fact, they used to whine before I did this and now they no longer make any sound.
  11. nakman

    nakman addict. Supporting Vendor

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    Mine are tight to the point where I can just barely move the thrust washer with a screwdriver, after the outer nut us torqued.. no play, and everything stays nice and cool. :)

  12. Tapage

    Tapage Club 4X4 Panamá SILVER Star

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    how much you put in the outher nut . ?
  13. timer00

    timer00 Just another LC driver

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    The FSM says 47lb/ft for the outer locknut.. so anywhere between 40 and 47 I guess is fine from what people are saying.
  14. Tapage

    Tapage Club 4X4 Panamá SILVER Star

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    I ask coz you said you will complete ignore the FSM .. ;)
  15. timer00

    timer00 Just another LC driver

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    haha I get it.. mine personally have loosened up after doing the "fish scale" method and I need to redo my preload and will be following the advice in this thread.

    As for the outer locknut I know the FSM says 47 exactly so i said anywhere between 40-47 would probably be fine since you can't have it too loose but don't want it too tight either so you should stick to somewhere near 47 lb/ft just to be safe?? I am a relative newbie so I'll just be torquing my outer one to 47 and using others advice on preloading the inner:)
  16. That... I don't remember ;)

    maybe follow the FSM in this one for a change :D
  17. greentruck

    greentruck

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    3,557
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    Don't feel bad, especially if you use this as a learning experience.

    On the other hand, you could be like me and take it to the local dealer, pay them hundreds of bucks at shop rates and have THEM screw it up...

    Wait, there's more.

    I used to work in a Class 8 truck garage and have seen more than my share of failed bearings. Less than 4,000 miles later and right after it started squawking, I take it straight back to them after doing the 12&6 wiggle test, which it failed.

    They look at it and then tell me my right wheel bearing has "failed" and it'll be another $2k to R&R the bearings on both sides, because they recommend that "in such cases." WTF?!?

    A wheel bearing close enough to failure in 4000 miles should've been caught by the tech when he repacked it. And now they want me to give it back to him again and get gouged for another $2k? And still not be sure it's fixed.

    Naw, I called CDan and did it myself. At least this way I know it's done right.

    All I can say is that some Toyota dealers are better than others. And the local one is not a better one here. The lost a regular customer, but when local dealerships pass into the hands of a mega-dealer, things can go bad. Oh yeah, it's one that starts with O'B.
  18. srich250

    srich250

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    Tucson,AZ
    wheel bearing preload

    from my personal experience of doing 25+ front hub rebuilds on diff 4x4's and on my 97 Cruiser which i've installed 4.88's 3 yrs ago and have done the front hubs 4 times now i say follow the manual exactly unlike I did.

    Once was to just lube them after the ring/pinion install. at that time I made the mistake of following the manual....EXCEPT I DIDNT REMOVE THE BRAKE CALIPER! IF you put the fish tape/spring gauge and pull at a 90 degree angle to the rotation and get it to 6.4-12.6 lbs with the caliper on, then take the caliper off, it is more like 1-2lbs. within 1000 miles and thought i could hear very slight metal sounds in my hubs but was telling myself no way, i did it per the book! LOL When really i didnt'.

    As i type this reply i'm redoing them now. per the book, without calipers attached and with a $10 fish tape to make sure i'm getting 6.4-12.6lbs of spring force.

    now they are both great and the stress is gone. it only takes about 35 min per side if you take your time. maybe an hour if it's your first time and you dont rush yourself.

    well good wheeling! this site and the members rock!
    scott
  19. wxm

    wxm SILVER Star

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    I took beno's advice; 15 ft-lbs on a fish gauge. It works well so far.:cool:
  20. Tools R Us

    Tools R Us

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