Tail light converter (2 Viewers)

[tonkota]

I have one, it isn't functioning. Are there some that are more robust than others? Is the one at Wal*Mart just as good as one from NAPA and Autozone?

I have no idea how old the one I have is or what brand it is.

Printable Trailer Wiring Schematic

I listed Valley Industries before, but I sold the vehicle and I don't know if it was really a good product.

 

[ntsqd]

None of those that I've had ever lasted more than a year. Maybe there some that will, but I never found them.

I gave up and did it with Bosch type relays. At least then if it doesn't work it is a simple fix.

 

[RockDoc]

Hmmm, my truck had one in it when I got it, and it works fine. I'll have to take a look and see if it is branded....

 

[RockDoc]

No markings other than for which wires are which.

 

[zebrabeefj40]

I haven't had much trouble out of the Hopkins/Hoppy convertor sold at Walmart/ Tractor Supply. But then I figure that trailer wiring is never permanant no matter how nicely I install it. So I usually have a spare convertor in the garage should the one on the truck fail. For the $10 they cost it's not that big a deal to me. But I can't remember having to replace one after I've installed it either. They just seem to work fine for me...

Nick

 

[ntsqd]

Maybe that's been my problem, I've always bought the $20-$25 version thinking that they'd be a better unit!!

Now that I've done the relays though I'll never go back. They take all of the trailer light loads off the tow rig's lighting circuits and put them on a dedicated tap of the battery. Next mod to the circuit will be to put some diagnostic indicator LED's on the waterproof box.

 

[62LostInMn]

I have to do the trailer lighting thing too, TLC recommended the U-Haul converter for $16.95. I checked the local U-Haul and the unit requires a direct line from the battery. Is this what people are using? My Cruiser is a 1988 FJ62.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Granite Grinder]

I have to do the trailer lighting thing too, TLC recommended the U-Haul converter for $16.95. I checked the local U-Haul and the unit requires a direct line from the battery. Is this what people are using? My Cruiser is a 1988 FJ62.

Thanks in advance.

I use a unit just as described, I didn't get it at U-Haul though, probably picked it up from a local auto parts store. I've moved this convertor through 3 different vehicles. Kinda works on the same basis as ntsqd's. I believe they call it a heavy duty convertor, by having a dedicated 12V supply it doesn't rob power from the stock tail/brake/turn circuit.
Phil

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Maybe that's been my problem, I've always bought the $20-$25 version thinking that they'd be a better unit!!

Now that I've done the relays though I'll never go back. They take all of the trailer light loads off the tow rig's lighting circuits and put them on a dedicated tap of the battery. Next mod to the circuit will be to put some diagnostic indicator LED's on the waterproof box.

That's not a bad idea at all, but I would think that 4 relays would take up a lot of space. Did you hook up another fuse block in the rear to power the 4 relays, using signal from the tail light harness?

 

[Granite Grinder]

None of those that I've had ever lasted more than a year. Maybe there some that will, but I never found them.

I gave up and did it with Bosch type relays. At least then if it doesn't work it is a simple fix.

Do you have a 4 wire -> 3 wire solution? Or you running separate brake/turns on the trailer.
Phil

 

[tonkota]

Just to update my issue:

I thought the little black box wasn't functioning since it had good connections to it and to the correct wires. But it turns out that the brake light wire connection had a bit of corrosion and no power was being sent to the box.

I cleaned it and repaired it and it works great. I also have trailer brakes! Which was nice.

Anyway, I don't know what brand this box is, but it seems to keep on working well.

 

[ntsqd]

That's not a bad idea at all, but I would think that 4 relays would take up a lot of space. Did you hook up another fuse block in the rear to power the 4 relays, using signal from the tail light harness?

Do you have a 4 wire -> 3 wire solution? Or you running separate brake/turns on the trailer.
Phil

5 relays, I put the tail lights on their own relay as well. Two relays per side deal with the stop/turn aspect. Whole system (& trailer lights) are on a dedicated 30A breaker inside of a water proof project box from Allied. The box fits inside of the frame rail at the rear of the truck. Fits like it was intended to go there.

Only downside, and I could care less, is that the stop lights work directly, the turn signals work directly, but if you are slowing and turning at the same time the trailer turn signal light blinks exactly out of phase with the tow rig. I.e. Tow rig turn light = on - trailer light = off; tow rig light = off - trailer light = on.

My way of screwing with people.

 

[Mace]

THe adapters all suck. THey are just hit and miss..

Go from there.

Relays sound like a PITA

 

[ntsqd]

THe adapters all suck. THey are just hit and miss..

Go from there.

Relays sound like a PITA

It was a head game figuring out the schematic and a little bit of work to make up the system so that the relays are simple to R&R, but altogether I've probably only got 3-4 hours in the thinking (making things simple is almost always complex) and another 2-3 hours in the assembly. Had to spread it out to allow the curing of the epoxy holding the relay bases into the box.
The cost was more than one of the converters, but I won't have it failing on me.

Instead I'll have some other sort of failure......

I have debated making them up and offering them FS, but I'd have to figure out how to cut a big chunk of the labor time out of them.

 

[Butt Ugly Chuck]

None of those that I've had ever lasted more than a year. Maybe there some that will, but I never found them.

I gave up and did it with Bosch type relays. At least then if it doesn't work it is a simple fix.

Any chance of you writing this up?

Butt

 

[ntsqd]

snip.....

I have debated making them up and offering them FS, but I'd have to figure out how to cut a big chunk of the labor time out of them.

Any chance of you writing this up?

Butt

Once I decide if I'm going to try offering kits or something, or abandon the whole thing. I'm thinking that the market is pretty small and may not justify the work.

 

[cruiser7773]

Uhaul

I bought mine from Uhaul when I rented one of their trailors and the existing one didn't work. I have since connected it to many different trailors without issue. I have had it for about 3 yrs and it works great. Most recenty, I tied my new LED tail light into it to combine the brake and turn signals. I will check the model # if you are interested.

 

[62LostInMn]

Yes - please post the model number if you have it. I need to do this work in the next week or so.

Thanks!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Once I decide if I'm going to try offering kits or something, or abandon the whole thing. I'm thinking that the market is pretty small and may not justify the work.

Well, if you decide the market is too small, then please post up your specs. I've been thinking about this the past couple of days and you could ( I'm assuming you did it like this ) use the tail light harness for signals, have a fuse block with a line in from the battery, distribute the power to the 4 relays, then have the 4 prong trailer pigtail come right off of the relays. If you're doing a 7 pin connector, it'd be pretty much the same thing for a 60. How'd you do it?

 

[ntsqd]

There is a lot of competition for this sort of thing, and my approach is too labor intensive to be very competitive. Story of my life.

I used relay bases from Del City or Waytek Wire (I forget which) and a water proof project box from Allied Electrical. If you want to know exactly which box I'll have to look after work. I epoxied the relay bases onto the sides of the bottom of the box after completing (& testing!!!) the wiring. I had to keep the loops short or the bases would not have gone in far enough for the lid to seal. I used one of the raised bosses in the bottom of the box for the ground buss. The breaker also lives inside of the box. It's output terminal is the power boss. All wires enter the box through a water tight strain relief. It wouldn't close down small enough for liquid tight (though it did grip the wires) so the cavity got filled with the "Right Stuff." The plan called for weather pack connectors with the wires grouped into "incoming" and "outgoing" connectors, but due to a mis-order the supplies didn't fully support that (yet).

"LT", "RT", "ST", &"TL" are all vehicle harness taps. "LT/ST-L", "RT/ST-L", & "RT-L" are the outputs to the trailer light connector. I used standardized trailer wiring color code.