Stihl 029 not oiling chain (1 Viewer)

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Happened Again.

Thanks for the info. I will try the white lithium grease. I am going to have to cut like one or two pieces and then let it cool down. I took it apart and the oiler gear was destroyed again.
I'll really have to take it slow on this stuff as not to get the engine real hot to jack this gear up again. Starting to cost too much. Thanks again for all your help. I learned something very important through this whole thing. Its nice to have the knowledge of the inner workings of these machines.
Jared
 
well

Took apart the saw again. The oiler gear was mangled again.
I will have to watch how much I use it at a time.
 
There is something wrong. You should only go through one or two oilers/gears over the life of the saw. I'm gonna guess a dull chain/ debris / blocked flow is your problem.
We run saws full bore for thousands of hours on fires and only go through a few oilers/gears a season. On 10 plus saws per crew.
Start in the oil tank replace the pick up tube/hose and filter. Use only stihl/husky oil. Replace/clean oiler, replace drive gear. Sharpen chain.
I'm willing to bet excess slippage in the clutch is the heat culprit killing your drive gear.
This is most likely caused by the chain not being sharp enough to cut efficiently and resulting in you pushing harder to cut and resulting in the clutch not being able to maintain full engagement with clutch drum. All of this can make enough heat to soften the drive gear and ultimately wear it out. I hope this helps if not shoot me a pm.
 
Thanks for all the info. I was able to clean a *nasty* 441 magnum with the information I've gathered from here. The only thing that I'm confused about are the 8 pins...I found 7 of them in the flywheel and 1 underneath in the "gunk". What are those pins there for? Balancing the flywheel? As far as I can tell, they don't belong there but that is where I found them.

Regards,

Cy
 
This is very good advise.

There is something wrong. You should only go through one or two oilers/gears over the life of the saw. I'm gonna guess a dull chain/ debris / blocked flow is your problem.
We run saws full bore for thousands of hours on fires and only go through a few oilers/gears a season. On 10 plus saws per crew.
Start in the oil tank replace the pick up tube/hose and filter. Use only stihl/husky oil. Replace/clean oiler, replace drive gear. Sharpen chain.
I'm willing to bet excess slippage in the clutch is the heat culprit killing your drive gear.
This is most likely caused by the chain not being sharp enough to cut efficiently and resulting in you pushing harder to cut and resulting in the clutch not being able to maintain full engagement with clutch drum. All of this can make enough heat to soften the drive gear and ultimately wear it out. I hope this helps if not shoot me a pm.

If the rakers on the saw chain are too low it will grab too much wood and bog the engine, slip the clutch etc.
 
Dan
While my 011 AVT is a smaller and different model your answers provided enough info and guidance to allow me to solve my oiling problem. - blocked hole in the bar.

Thanks:cheers:
 
I know this is after a bit of a break, but thought I'd let you know that you (D'Animal) were right....the pins were from the melted needle cage. The nylon was part of the mush inside and under the clutch assembly. Needless to say, I had to order another needle cage. Now everything is back in working order. I also went ahead and put in a new worm gear just in case it had suffered some heat damage as well being a nylon part.

Thanks for the thread!
 
this is interesting and well timed. We have had a few bad storms around here and i've had several big hickory trees fall in my back yard. I have a husqvarana 51 with a 22" bar (i think that's the length) and i noticed the last time i used it that the chain was not oiling. I used the air compressor to get all the dust and debris out but still not oiling.

Do you think my saw would have the same type oiling mechanism? I may take it apart and look closer.
 
It uses a similar one. Start by cleaning the oiler hole and the rail in the guide bar. Then flush the oil tank and check the pick up screen for debris. If everything checks out it would be time to go a little deeper.

If I have time this weekend I will take a part a Husky and take some pictures for ya.
 
Thanks D'Animal!
 
this is interesting and well timed. We have had a few bad storms around here and i've had several big hickory trees fall in my back yard. I have a husqvarana 51 with a 22" bar (i think that's the length) and i noticed the last time i used it that the chain was not oiling. I used the air compressor to get all the dust and debris out but still not oiling.

Do you think my saw would have the same type oiling mechanism? I may take it apart and look closer.

if you are pressed for time and need to get them cut up just give me a ring and I'l bring the 036 over and we'll knock it out till you get the Husky fixed. slight hijack off.
 
if you are pressed for time and need to get them cut up just give me a ring and I'l bring the 036 over and we'll knock it out till you get the Husky fixed. slight hijack off.

appreciate the offer but i cut the wood last month, just noticed while i was finishing up that the chain was not oiling properly. :eek:
 
i honestly have not taken the time to look into it any deeper. I will soon. I guess when it's in the mid to upper 90's cutting wood and outside "fall/winter" work is the last on my mind.
 
029 replace uptake hose

Need to replace the oil uptake hose on a Stihl 029 (broke off at the grommet on the reservoir side). Anyone have experience with this; any tricks to make it easier?
Thanks
 
Follow steps 1 - 8 in htis thread

https://forum.ih8mud.com/workshop-home-improvement/247492-stihl-oiler-repair-most-even-model-s.html

Need to replace the oil uptake hose on a Stihl 029 (broke off at the grommet on the reservoir side). Anyone have experience with this; any tricks to make it easier?
Thanks

You will take the oiler pick up body (fancy name for the filter on the end of the hose) off from the oil tank side. You will then pull the hose out from the oil pump side. You will install the new hose from the oil pump side.

Allow about 15 minutes for the repair.
 

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