Stihl 029 not oiling chain (1 Viewer)

[Jeepman1487]

Oops.

I guess I listened to the wrong person along the line. Someone told me that they had to take out the oiler itself because it had locked down on them. Also, they stated that they used oil to lubricate it. Maybe I have explained it wrong or are talking about the wrong part. Reading your post more throughly, it looks like it is part 11276403204(oil pump). There is a gear on that ring at the bottom. I cannot turn it at all. I took it to an authorized Stihl dealership and they said it was locked up. The posting I read refered to a spring. It said there was a spring next to that gear. The person on the post further stated that gear could "lock up" if run with out oil going on the chain. Regardless, I already ordered it and will try to get it to work. I will give update on Friday. P. S. It didnt look like there was much of anything in the oiler. Should I blast it with some air to see if I can get it to move?

Thanks...Jared

 

[D'Animal]

You are getting your threads confused.

You use oild to lubricate the pump when installing on an 025, not an 029.

 

[Jeepman1487]

Trouble again with Stihl 029.

I was able to fix my model 029.(temporarily) Without the chain on I saw oil come out the whole. I did some cutting and it looked like the whole was getting clogged. I moved the oil screw to allow more oil to come out to no avail. I took off the bar again and now no oil is coming out at all. I have not taken it apart again, but I am betting the oiler gear is jacked up again. When I repaired it the first time, the oil pump was clogged with junk and the oiler gear was mashed. Any thoughts on why I am having this repeat problem? Is it worth it to take it to a dealer? This is really pissing me off. I have had a homeowners Poulan(Wild Thing) for ten years with no problems. THis is very fustrating.
Thoughts?

 

[D'Animal]

What did you do to temporarily fix it?

Did you clean and flush the crud out of the oil tank and oil line? You know crud is in there since it locked you pump up. Did you replace the oiler gear or rebend the spring?

If you would like to start compairing brands, there is a thread in Chat on that.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

if your running a really dull chain you can clog up the oiler holes in the bar with saw dust....you want chunks coming out of the tree....not dust.

double check and make sure your oil tank is clean and the oil hose filter is clean

Yes your oiler gear should spin freely both directions easily (doesn't take much to damage a nylon threaded bushing so it has to spin easily)

with the clutch on make sure your worm gear is spinning freely as there can be part of the melted nut still on the engine housing that is obstructing the rotation of the oiler assy.


Your 029 is twice the saw the poulan wild thing will ever be....i sell both of them. The 029 is atleast 5 years old and is probably the best home owner saw ever made (comparable to a 55 rancher)

Poulan is much cheaper quality, think homelite and paper weights IMO

It's worth taking it to a dealer...if you were closer i'd tell you to bring it by here....but that would probably be an expensive plane ticket from me to just point out something that any local dealer should be able to point out to you.

 

[Jeepman1487]

Here is what I did.

I replaced the oiler gear as you instructed. I did clean the oiler itself as it did have crud in it. I am going to open it up again tomorrow but I suspect there is crud on it again. I have rather large logs that I am trying to cut in half long ways so I will have an easier time spliting them. I bought a Stihl chain for this saw.
Some of the wood chips were very small in nature. It just seem like it should be getting clogged like this. I love this saw. I just want it to work.

 

[D'Animal]

So you are ripping with the grain of the log versus cutting across the log?

 

[Jeepman1487]

Yes

Yes it is.

 

[Jeepman1487]

Yes

Yes I am.

 

[Jeepman1487]

another post.

The worm gear does spin freely. Also, when i fixed it the first time I ran it without the bar on it and oil came out. I thought I was free and clear. It didnt take long. I took off the bar twice to clean crud(it seemed) because it was not oiling. I know one of the tests for the oil is you should see oil coming off the chain when it is running. I saw no oil coming off the chain. Most of the chips were long strips but some were very fine.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

I suspected the first time around that it was the oiler gear that locked up and that is what ate up your worm gear (nylon gear with metal finger)

If your oiler was not spinning freely and you put a new worm gear on it it will eat the new one up, quickly. The oiler should spin freely in both directions with almost NO resistance at all.

I've not had alot of experience using a saw cutting down the middle of a log...usually it's side ways...i suspect your not using a "saw mill" type table for this and your doing it on the ground.

If your hitting the ground/dirt your going to be dulling your chain quickly especially if your using the stihl RSC chain (yellow box)

If you know your going to be hitting the ground use the chain that comes in the green box (low kick back)

It's not as aggressive of a tooth but you can completely submerge the bar running in dirt/sand and pull it out and make cuts. If your using the more chisle tooth chain your SOL unless you are good with a hand file.

the crud you speak of, if it's just around the bar cover, it's of no concern. The crud i would worry about is any crud in your oil tank, oiler filter, or blocking the oiler holes of the bar. The rest of the exposed areas under your bar cover will constanlty be catching a mixture of saw dust/oil. .This is normal.

 

[Jeepman1487]

There seems to be crud blocking the hole where the oil comes out. Seems to build up there.
Any thoughts on keeping this from happening? This is a Stihl chain so it should be delivering the oil properly.
Also, what would cause alot of crud to build up in the oiler? Is it possibly something that I am missing in the assembly? This dosent seem normal to me. I am going to open it up tomorrow and see if there is crud in it. Even with the bar off, there is no oil now. There was and I think crud has gotten in the oiler again and locked down. I am going to try to really clean it out now. Any thoughts on how to get the really gummed up stuff out? Goof Off?

 

[dohcdelsol93]

so i'm not following, did you replace the locked down oiler when you replaced the worm gear?

I'm not sure how your getting saw dust build up in the oil feed hole, it would have to be coming from junk in the lines/oiler/tank.

 

[Jeepman1487]

What I was trying to say is that I cleaned the oiler last time but probably not enough.
This time I soaked it in Goof Off to really get all the crud out of it.
It seems to be working ok now. I only briefly tried cutting some wood. This I did the oil test by running it to see if any oil would fly off as the manual states and it does.
I am really going to try and cut some wood on Sunday and put it to the test.
Hopefully the problem is solved for good. I have not been cutting in the dirt.
It just seems that the damn oiler has been locking down. Anyhow, it is working now.
Thanks for the update. I will keep you informed.
Jared

 

[D'Animal]

I'm not saying that the crud in your oil pump was not the problem, but.


When crosscutting with a chain saw 3 out of 5 cutter teeth actually cut when sharpened properly. The rest of the cutter teeth help clean out the cut. If you hook the spike and force the saw through the cut, all of the cuter teeth will cut. This is what makes the saw bog down below the peak torque powerband. This also heats up the clutch since it is under more of a load. Cutting with a dull chain also heats up the clutch since it is being forced to slip.

When ripping with a chain saw all or 5 out of 5 cutter teeth actually cut when sharpened properly. All of the teeth are slicing into the wood and taking their own shavings. If you hook the bumper spike and force the saw through the cut, this is what makes the saw bog down below the peak torque powerband. This also heats up the clutch since it is under more of a load. Cutting with a dull chain also heats up the clutch since it is being forced to slip

Forcing a chain saw to cut is similar to driving a vehicle up a long steep hill in 4th gear instead of 3rd gear or second gear. The engine is not in it's sweet spot for maximum performance.

Cutting with a dull chain is similar to driving a vehicle with low or almost flat tires up a long steep hill in 4th gear instead of 3rd gear or second gear.

The extra load pulls the engine down. The clutch slips and the sprocket slows down in relationship to the RPM of the crankshaft. You cutting speed slows down. The heat generated by the slipping clutch is what can heat up the wire clip that goes from the drive sprocket to the oiler drive gear. If enough heat is present for a long enough period of time, the result is the wire clip can melt the oiler drive gear. the end result is the wire clip or drive wire will slip on oiler drive gear. End reult, no oil to the bar and chain.

Now we get to the Ripping part. Remember that when ripping with properly sharpened saw chain, all 5 of 5 cutter teeth or all of the cutter teath are cutting. The fact you are using 2 or 3 tank of fuel to one tank of oil should give you an indication of the load you are putting on the saw. On top of everything I mentioned in the above, you now have the heat generated by the chassis of the saw chain gliding on the guide bar rails. In design, the bar and chain oil is a layer of lubrication between the two metal components. The extra heat caused by ripping can cause the oil to actually vaporize. When this happens, it seems the oiler is not working. It is simple enough to keep the saw chain lubricated by pulling the chain saw oiut of the cut and reving it up to get the oil flowing again. In reallity when you do this you are cooling down the clutch and lubricating the saw chain, etc.


Sorry for the long post but I think it is important that you know what is actually going on with your chain saw.

Crappy, cheap, reclaimed, Green, Red or Blue, bar and cahin oil are low quality. Most of them are made from reclaimed oil and can cause you grief. The paraffinic bases oils can setting and can partially turn to back into parafin in your oiler system, in the oil jug, etc.

 

[Jeepman1487]

I believe you have hit the nail on the head. I appreciate the detailed post. What you wrote really hit home as I was using the saw yesterday. The oiler was working for a while(longer this time than the previous 2 times). I was cross cutting and would pull the saw out after a very short time. It would still oil. Then I think I used it for a few minutes and it stopped oiling. I grabbed the bar and chain as I was taking off the nuts and the bar was extremely hot to the touch(I was wearing gloves). The chain is new and looks sharp to me. I have been going through gas like it was nothing. I cross cut a few logs in one instance and the gas was gone. Oil seems to be coming out of the hole, but that may be from gravity. I suspect the gear is gone again. I just hope I have not damaged the saw permenantly. Do you have any other suggestions to combat this problem other than to pull the saw out after a few seconds of cutting? I have Stihl oil. Should I try using that? Do you think it will fair better than the cheap stuff? Your detailed explanation has given me one of those moments where everything just seems to come together on why I have been having these problems. I appreciate it greatly. The heat being generated must be massive to cause this to happen. It has been bogging down alot, but I think it is because of what you stated. Thanks again. Please let me know if you have any suggestions.

Jared

 

[dohcdelsol93]

it is expected that the bar/chain will get super hot to the touch while using even in soft wood


but Stihl oil will work MUCH MUCH better than the cheap stuff or used motor oil

 

[D'Animal]

Justy a thought but the next time it slows down and stops oiling, loosen you oil cap.

You oil tank vent may be plugged.

 

[Jeepman1487]

Thanks all for the information. I will empty out the crappy oil and put in the Stihl oil I just bought. I guess I will have to watch the heat and the oil on the saw like a hawk. The clutch seems not to be turning now but I think that is cause I hit a knot in the wood. Is there a certain type of grease I should be using on that roller bearing? Once again, I appreciate the help. I am going to tear it apart again tomorrow and hopefully its not in too bad a shape. I'll follow up.

 

[D'Animal]

Most people use a hi temp white lithium grease.