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Stihl 029 not oiling chain

Discussion in 'Workshop and Home Improvement' started by Alloutofdonuts, Nov 3, 2008.

  1. Alloutofdonuts

    Alloutofdonuts New Member

    Messages:
    4
    I wasn't sure if I should start a new thread or not, but I tried to put a reply in another thread and I got the mssg:
    "Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired.

    Please push the back button and reload the previous window."

    I'm not the most computer savy so I don't knw why it's saying that, maybe the virus protection sw?

    Well anyway, I have a STIHL 029 that doesn't seem to want to oil the chain. Going from info I found on here I took it apart and managed to find an adjuster that I just assumed was for the chain oiler pump. I realized after it was apart that maybe I could have got to the adjuster from the bottom of the saw had I taken off the handle bar. So anywho I turned it up, and it seems to oil more, but still not enough. Bubbles are coming out of the port where the oil comes out too, which I'm not sure is normal? When I put the bar & chain back on it doesn't seem to get any oil to the bottom side of the bar. The plastic threaded thing that had the wire clip on it seemed to be intact and not all worn out. Anybody have any suggestions as to what I shoul check next? TIA. -da new guy
  2. D'Animal

    D'Animal Rescuer of Beagle and Landcruisers Moderator

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    It is oiling but not enough, correct?


    The adjuster is accessed from the bottom of the saw. It is designed to turn up your oiler if you are running a longer bar or dirty/dry wood.


    Was the wire clip snug on the gear or did it spin freely?
  3. Alloutofdonuts

    Alloutofdonuts New Member

    Messages:
    4
    yup it's oiling just not enough to lube the chain all the way around. The clip was pretty snug but I could move it with some effort. Is it suppose to be totally unmoveable? I'm thinking that the tork of the engine with the heat from it, maybe the clip's spinning but not all the time?
  4. D'Animal

    D'Animal Rescuer of Beagle and Landcruisers Moderator

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    What bar and chain lubricant are you running.

    What Chain are you running? Is it a STIHL saw chain? It will have it stamped on the cutter tooth.
  5. Alloutofdonuts

    Alloutofdonuts New Member

    Messages:
    4
    The bar and chain lube I've been using is the generic stuff from cheapo (home) depot. But the new bar and the chain are both STIHL, bought from the dealer. Do you think the oil is too thick maybe?

    I read the other post that describes the cold & warm oil mix for chain lube, I'll try that. This stuff seems like it is pretty thick and very sticky.
  6. D'Animal

    D'Animal Rescuer of Beagle and Landcruisers Moderator

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    If you look at the left side of the driver on the STIHL chain, you will see a grove shaped lke a #7. This groove scoops the oil from the oil entering the guide bar. It puts the oil exactly where it needs to go. The rivets/bearing that hold the chain together. Some of the newer designed chain also has a hole in the driver tha capture more oil and release it into the bearing due to the centrifical force created when the chain goes around the tip of the bar. This the OiloMatic system. It reduces bar lube consumption by 30% since the lubricant goes exactly where it needs to be.

    If you run a different brand of saw chain they are not designed with this oil chanel. You basically have to flood the chain with oil and hope some of it get into the rivet/bearings. This is when you turn your oil pump up.

    You should have 20% of the oil left in your oil tank when you are out of fuel.
  7. Jeepman1487

    Jeepman1487 Regular Member

    Messages:
    24
    I am still not getting any oil to the chain of my model 029 Stihl. I took some of it apart.
    I am going to upload some pictures to see if you can further help me out. I did not see the white plastic gear as u had in a previous post. However, (see pictures) there is a pinkish plastic piece with a a metal piece sitcking out that seem to have mushroomed out. I was wondering if you could explain a little more about how the oiler works. Thanks again for your help.
    Jared

    Attached Files:

  8. D'Animal

    D'Animal Rescuer of Beagle and Landcruisers Moderator

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    How loose is the clip/wire that is on the red gear?


    You should have approximately 20% of the oil left in the tank when you are out of fuel.

    When cutting Australia Red Eucalyptus and a few other varieties, the sap will actually clean the oil off the chain and it will seem like the oiler is not working.

    Remove you bar and chain and run the saw to see if it is truly not oiling.

    If it is not oiling, remove the "C" clip that hold the sprocket drum on and then remove sprocket drum.

    You will be looking at the clutch. It has a 19mm nut made onto the center spider. This is a backwards thread. It come off to the right. Do not use an impact wrench to remove it. You can shear the flywheel key or brake the clutch spider.

    Remove the spark plug. Get a piece of small rope and fold in half and stick it in the spark plug hole. Do not put too much in. You now have the piston stopped.

    Remove the clutch assy.

    You will see a wire going around the crankshaft and sticking out a few inches. This wire is clipped on the white or red polymer oiler drive gear. The oiler drive gear slides right off the crankshaft.

    If the wire is "loose" on the oiler drive gear of the the end "tip" is worn off, the gear will need replaced.

    Assemble in revers order and don't forget to grease the sprocket bearing.

    Total time it should take you is about 12 minutes.
  9. Jeepman1487

    Jeepman1487 Regular Member

    Messages:
    24
    That clip/wire is very lose.

    How should it look?

    Also, I am not getting any oil at all.

    I mean none.

    I'll try what you said to do on Sunday and let you know.

    Thanks again for your help.

    Jared
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2010
  10. D'Animal

    D'Animal Rescuer of Beagle and Landcruisers Moderator

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    It should be snug to tight on the red/white gear.
  11. Jeepman1487

    Jeepman1487 Regular Member

    Messages:
    24
    Further help.

    I am having a hard time getting that spider nut off. I know you said to turn it to the right, but it does not budge. Is there a trick to getting it off? I have tried to put another ratchet on the nut from spindle where the pull rope is but it wont come off.
    Also, that metal piece does spin freely on the pink plastic piece. Is that the gear? Or is it behind that plastic piece? If that is the piece, than it looks damaged to me. What are your thoughts?

    Jared

  12. dohcdelsol93

    dohcdelsol93 snoogans

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    the brown plastic thing behind the clutch is your worm gear. That worm gear is shot bro...it should be closer to a white color. Yours is brown and melted. The metal finger that is behind that should be attached to the worm gear and it should spin easiy.


    To access it you must remove your clutch (that nut thats on there)

    you need to take recoil rope (about two foot of it)

    remove your spark plug

    feed the rope down in there until you can spin the crank and it will stop

    Then take that off with an impact gun. It is left hand thread so loosen to the right.

    You can also use a larger breaker bar to do this.

    If you don't put rope in the cylinder to stop the piston you can shear the flyweel key.


    anyway once you have the clutch off and worm gear out spin the gear on the oiler. It should also move freely

    if not your oiler probably locked down and ate up your worm gear. Replace all of them and go on your way to cutting again.

    i'm a stihl dealer/technician so feel free to ask me any further questions via PM since i'm bad about checking up on threads.
  13. fj40charles

    fj40charles GOLD Star

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    I was told not to use the impact. It can shear the shaft.
  14. D'Animal

    D'Animal Rescuer of Beagle and Landcruisers Moderator

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    Try this

    http://forum.ih8mud.com/workshop-ho...-removing-inboard-clutch-stihl-chain-saw.html
  15. Jeepman1487

    Jeepman1487 Regular Member

    Messages:
    24
    Thanks

    Thanks all for the info. I will try on Friday. The internet is great. Any ideas on what would cause this after only three uses? I was cutting and went too far on a piece of wood and hit the concrete. Did I just answer my own question? What is the chances the rest of the internal components are still working? The spider nut still spins.

    Thanks again,

    Jared
  16. dohcdelsol93

    dohcdelsol93 snoogans

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    Location:
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    if you use an impact and don't use a cylinder stop you can/will shear the flywheel key. Om the smaller stihl equipment the key is built into the flywheel which means it ruins the flywheel.

    As far as shearing the crank shaft...i've been doing this for about 10-15 years and would have to say that it would take some real torque to do that.

    Using a regular 1/2" drive impact with 110-140 psi on about 3/4 setting you won't have any issues.

    If you break out the 1" drive impact...then some damage might be done if you torque the clutch in the wrong direction.

    Remember that chainsaw clutchs are left hand thread...you'll be allright.

    Just like any other profession...there is the text book way to do it and there are a few "real life situation" ways to do some things.
  17. Jeepman1487

    Jeepman1487 Regular Member

    Messages:
    24
    Thanks all.

    Thank you for all of everyone's help. I was able to get that oiler gear off. The actual oiler itsself does spin, but it hard to turn. Does it only turn one way or is it possible that is shot. Unfortunately, I did run the saw for a few minutes when there was no oil coming out. How much does a new oiler run? How much does a new oiler gear cost? Is there anything else I should look for that might have been damaged?

    Thanks,

    Jared
  18. D'Animal

    D'Animal Rescuer of Beagle and Landcruisers Moderator

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    Remove the pump and clean the crud out of it. Also clean the oil pickup line.
  19. Jeepman1487

    Jeepman1487 Regular Member

    Messages:
    24
    thanks again.

    From all the help I received here I was able to get the oiler gear off. It was very mangled. It also looks like the oiler itsself is locked up(I ordered a new one). I think I saw a post about getting the oiler out. In case I can't find it, can you repost? I think I remember there was a spring or something that I should watch out for. Also, can I use chain oiler to lubricate or should I use grease?

    Thanks,

    Jared
  20. D'Animal

    D'Animal Rescuer of Beagle and Landcruisers Moderator

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    Pumps generally do not "Look" locked up. Turn the driven gear with you finger and see if it turns. If not, remove the pump and flush the crap/crud out of it by turning the pump gear.


    Per your picture in Post #7, your already unbolted the oil pump. Use your fingers and remove it.


    There is no spring that will come flying out at you.


    What are you going to lubricate? The pump should be lubricated/primed with bar and chain oil. The oiler drive gear should have some grease applied to the threads adn the inner race.

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