stainless brake hoses (2 Viewers)

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Start with the front, that is all you really need to feel the difference. Cant tell much with the back at all. 2/3rds of the braking occurs in the front.
 
does anyone have a source for the body-rear axle line since the stoptech only sells the four corners?

I had an Earl's performance shop custom make me one (10mm inverted flare for toyota, IIRC). Earl's used to sell stainless steel ends (got 'em for my 4runner back in '02 at the same shop; so far, I have 5 yrs and 80K mi on them), but they only sell the steel ended ones now. Cost about $35. For those of you in South Bay LA, it's on Hawthorne Blvd. just north of the 405. The JDM Ganlock hose kit contains all five hoses for around $300. I saved the old hoses, so if anyone is interested, I can measure the frame to axle hose length.
 
Start with the front, that is all you really need to feel the difference. Cant tell much with the back at all. 2/3rds of the braking occurs in the front.

if im going to do it, im going to DO IT. thats like buying only two 35" tires and leaving the other three stock.
 
if im going to do it, im going to DO IT. thats like buying only two 35" tires and leaving the other three stock.

Not replacing all the hoses would be like squeezing a balloon and having the air go to the other end. Besides, the electronic booster in the master cylinder puts a lot of brake pressure at the rear as the front (over 1000 psi if you brake hard), so although the front may provide most of the braking power, it doesn't mean the fronts are proportionately getting that much of the brake pressure.
 
Not replacing all the hoses would be like squeezing a balloon and having the air go to the other end. Besides, the electronic booster in the master cylinder puts a lot of brake pressure at the rear as the front (over 1000 psi if you brake hard), so although the front may provide most of the braking power, it doesn't mean the fronts are proportionately getting that much of the brake pressure.


As evidenced by me wearing 2x rears to 1x fronts.
 
All I can say is that there are a number of professional companies out there only selling braking up grades. A lot of these sets includes new front calipers/rotors/ and front ss brake lines. If there were significant liability in it, they wouldnt be doing it in this letiginous environment.

The OEM lines are not like balloons otherwise they would pop. There is some give in them, until the radial forces are overcome by the elastic recoil of the lines, then the pressure is applied to the caliper. This point is in flux, given the amount of pressure applied. That being said, the proportioning valve varies the pressure to the front/back. SS lines will not change that, the same pressure will go to the front. What it means is that the pistons will extend faster in the front as there is very little give in the lines. Just the 0.02 from an old RPI grad.

Possibly, this may in fact help you need fewer rear brake changes.
 
For the record, I measured the length of the OEM rubber brake hose from the frame to rear axle. It's 15.25" from the end of one connector to the end of the other connector.
 
Figured I would add a review of my Goodridge lines here and maybe we can get thread kicked up to the FAQ.
I installed the Goodridge G-Stop Lines part number 2-21127 in early 2009 on my 2000 LC. The kit has 2" longer lines for chassis to diff in rear and the fronts. The lines at rear calipers are standard length.
I was not happy with the routing caused by fitting at caliper, so sent fronts back to Goodridge and had them change fitting. Since they cut old fitting off, front line ended up being about an inch longer than stock. They did it for free, so was only out shipping to them. Not sure why it had this fitting as it does not makes sense, Slee earlier in this thread mentions that there are different hose configuration, so maybe on another year it works fine. Don't know if they have changed front lines since then.
Would recommend these lines as they improved pedal feel and are more rugged. Have had them on for over a year now.
First photo shows lines right out of the box. Second photo compares stock front line with Goodridge line. (The factory line fitting at the caliper has an indexing pin that goes into a hole in caliper, this keep banjo fitting from turning. Neither Goodridge line nor the modified line have this. Don't know how important it is.)
Last photo shows Goodridge front before and after modification. I had asked Goodridge to turn ferrule bracket (in middle of line) around when they changed fitting. But they forgot, so I moved it to other side of mount as shown.
P1000632.jpg
P1000629.jpg
P1000613sidebside.jpg
 
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I don't see caliper indexing pins on the Goodridge banjos...are they there?
 
I just got a set through our stoptech supplier a few months back...I would call them and find out for sure, I would bet they have some sitting on a shelf somewhere
 
I just got a set through our stoptech supplier a few months back...I would call them and find out for sure, I would bet they have some sitting on a shelf somewhere

I found the Stoptechs in their catalog and a online retailer. They are approx $90 front/rear.

Where they the same length or longer than stock?
 
They are not there and I've never seen them on aftermarket lines. Do you think these are important?

I'm not sure. They keep the banjo from rotating as the bolt that attaches the banjo is being torqued. The SS braided lines I had fabbed locally 4-years ago have the indexing pins.

The NAPA SS lines have the indexing pin but the NAPA shop in Grand Junction couldn't quite get the tube portion of the banjo to the 80-90 degrees it ideally needs to be bent to; it works fine and no reason to believe it won't continue to do so just because the bend lacks another 15-20 degrees.

We're not really sure why my banjo fitting cracked. It was probably related to my broken sway bar bracket but there weren't strike marks on the banjo fitting itself. But glad some of the NAPAs, especially the Grand Junction NAPA store ;), offers this service!
 
I found the Stoptechs in their catalog and a online retailer. They are approx $90 front/rear.

Where they the same length or longer than stock?

Im not sure...they are still sitting in the rear cargo compartment of the lc...waiting for when i have to do pads/rotors in about 5 months.


I will pull them out and see if can measure them tomorrow..I have to leave soon to go set up our booth here.. http://www.audiexpo.com/
 
Thanks!

Now if anyone had the stock measurements to compare...
 
From RedEuro's pics, Stoptech still does not have the line(s) from chassis to rear diff (VSC = 2 lines, non-VSC = 1 line). It is chassis to rear diff line(s) and fronts that should be longer for lifted rigs.
 
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VSC=2 lines from chassis to diff
Non-VSC=1 line
 
I just attempted to get info from StopTech about the kit but he just wanted to sell me a BBK.

Does the rear kit come with all the lines or is the chassis/axle still left rubber?
 

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