Split rims, bias ply tires, tubes, and tube liners (1 Viewer)

[DrivingMissRosey]

I'd like to start a thread which lists where people got their splits, tubes, tube liners, bias ply tires and any modifications to run the splits (if needed). Also please post resources where you know you can get any of the above. I know many people run metric tires sizes on 16" splits so please include these too though I run a 7.50 R16. I'm thinking US resources here because all you international cruiserheads usually have no problem getting splits and the accessories.

My set up:
Splits: Craigslist $450 with tires, thanks luger!
Tubes: TR150s came with tires but I think size TR440 will also work
Tube liners: Came with tires
Tires: 7.50 R16 Bias ply came with the rims. Pretty worn, but I have another set on the way from Costa Rica, thanks REDrum!

Resources:
Splits: $OR, and random chance Craigslist.com and KSL.com,
Tubes: Gemplers.com, Cokertire.com (have both 7.50 R16 and H78-15 OEM 15" size), vintagetyres.com (this is a UK company and they might ship overseas), Woody's Tires in Everett MA,
Tube liners: I'm at a loss for a place that has these. Bueller?
Tires: Cokertire.com for the Super Traxion in 16 and 15". Other resources like tirerack.com and a few online tire places list 7.50 R16 as an extant tire size they carry, but nearly always list tires in that size as backordered.

And because people clammer for photos I've included mine.

If we get enough response on this maybe we could start it as a sticky in the tires and wheels section?

 

[george_tlc]

I use to run toyo 7.50r16 bias tyres on my split rims - very rugged tyres (8 ply), but they did wander on the road, had flat spots when cold and generally were not pavement friendly.

Now I run 235/85/16 cooper sst. MUCH nicer tyre that actually is round, quiet on the road and tracks very well. Running them on cruiser 5.5 split rims that have been cut/rewelded with more offset (wider track).

cheers,
george.

 

[REDrum]

but I have another set on the way from Costa Rica, thanks REDrum!

Very slowly but will get here....

FWIW, my Tico buddies love Ply tires for three very compelling reasons:
1) Made in country and therefor very affordable (7.5x16 FS Translugs are ~95 bux new)
2) They are very tough and sidewalls hold up well when driving in 10" mud daily for 5 months of the year
3) Traditional look and feel on FJ/BJ 40/42/45s and Series II/IIa/III Land Rovers

 

[DrivingMissRosey]

Very slowly but will get here....

FWIW, my Tico buddies love Ply tires for three very compelling reasons:
1) Made in country and therefor very affordable (7.5x16 FS Translugs are ~95 bux new)
2) They are very tough and sidewalls hold up well when driving in 10" mud daily for 5 months of the year
3) Traditional look and feel on FJ/BJ 40/42/45s and Series II/IIa/III Land Rovers

No problem!

 

[DrivingMissRosey]

I use to run toyo 7.50r16 bias tyres on my split rims - very rugged tyres (8 ply), but they did wander on the road, had flat spots when cold and generally were not pavement friendly.

Now I run 235/85/16 cooper sst. MUCH nicer tyre that actually is round, quiet on the road and tracks very well. Running them on cruiser 5.5 split rims that have been cut/rewelded with more offset (wider track).

cheers,
george.

Nice looking vehicle George. I haven't really experienced wandering as of yet but the flatspots are there, especially when I have to park my car for a week or more at my office.

On a non-tire note, where do you source the tubes and tubeliners?

 

[george_tlc]

Nice looking vehicle George. I haven't really experienced wandering as of yet but the flatspots are there, especially when I have to park my car for a week or more at my office.

On a non-tire note, where do you source the tubes and tubeliners?

I run split rims on my patrol (in the picture) in oz... So, tubes and rust bands are available at pretty well any tyre place over there. i.e. it would be surprising to visit a tyre place that didn't have them in stock and on hand.

The patrol is a short wheel base, so any tyre handling issues show up quickly given the more squirrely nature of a short vehicle. So, in a lwb cruiser you may not feel it as much. I ran bias (cross ply) tyres for many years and several tyre changes and moving back to radials (and the wider track with the offset rims) was amazing. Turned the patrol into a totally different vehicle - massive improvement in handling especially on the heavily crowned oz highways.

cheers,
george.

 

[JohnnyC]

Hello

When you refered to the tubes... The tr150 is the style of valve
stem... A tr150 is the long flexible rubber stem... Tr440 is the bent metal long style


I get all my tire stuff from GCR centers... They are located thru the USA

Link to some more info on split rims ... This is a link... Click it >>>https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/319947-oem-split-rims-repair.html

Link to stems numbers: http://www.firestonetubes.com/ShowValves.aspx

 

[JohnnyC]

This is a great thread as well... Link: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/416615-splitrims-punctures-puncture-repair.html

 

[Roberto]

Rims new: 4WheelAuto in Canada total of 7 of them for my CDN M101 has on them as well
Tires: BF Goodrich 255/85-16's
Tubes and liners: Got both from a Goodyear tire store IIRC and my stems are the bent metal ones.

Sorry no pics, working off iPad now and havnt figured out how to attach pics with it

Rob

 

[Kajun]

I'm in. Subscribed.
I have a 97 FZJ80 and have been considering split rims for an expedition build. I currently have stock 8" wheels with 265/75 16R tires. I don't plan on adding a lift and don't want to go any larger in tire diameter.
I have sourced four wheels but haven't purchased them yet. I plan on running 235/85 16R tires so there is an insignificant change in diameter from what I am currently running.
Several folks don't think it's such a hot idea because of how the truck will track, stability, etc.
But I know the 80 came stock in other countries with split rims. So planned terrain and expedition destinations aside I have two questions.
Does anyone else in the U.S. run splits on an 80? And is there a difference in caster, camber, and or toe on 80s equipped with split rims from the factory settings on 80s not equipped with splits?
This is just a start in the research but I thought if there was ever a thread to throw the question out there, this would be it.
I will also be sure to post any results I find or establish once I decide to give a full truck setup a go.
The picture attached is an example.

 

[Kajun]

Also

There is some great information on tires (tyres) on Toyota Gibraltar Stockholdings Ltd.

They have a great web page and the following link is to a pdf on tire selection.

http://ecom.toyota-gib.com/English/tgs-media-centre.html

TGS Ltd. is an supplier/outfitter to humanitarian organizations and the UN. Their web page contains a lot more detail about the company/branch. And a lot of 70 series eye candy.

Their parts stock page does indicate that they have several of the split rim wheels in stock. I have not contacted anyone from the US office to see if there is any way non humanitarian/UN folks in the US can purchase parts from them. I seriously doubt we can so haven't pursued much.

I did find that ToyotaPartsEast does sell the grey 16" ring. PN 42613-60080. sometimes these online parts pages list parts and you can place an order only to find out later they are not available. On a whim I placed an order for one and to my surprise it showed up. Expensive though. ca. $50.

Some of the other part numbers I have located for wheels are:
1992 year
42610-60111-03 grey
42610-60142-03 silver

1999 year
42610-60320 grey
42613-60330 silver

Not sure if these PNs are common knowledge, but figured what the hey.

 

[DrivingMissRosey]

I'm in. Subscribed.
Does anyone else in the U.S. run splits on an 80? And is there a difference in caster, camber, and or toe on 80s equipped with split rims from the factory settings on 80s not equipped with splits?

I dont know about 80s, but I haven't had to adjust anything on my 60 after 5k miles. I read on 40 series thread that some adjustments were necessary. If you cant find out any information if 80s get an adjustment, I'd put the splits and new tires on, and then do some testing in controlled circumstances.

 

[Kajun]

I dont know about 80s, but I haven't had to adjust anything on my 60 after 5k miles. I read on 40 series thread that some adjustments were necessary. If you cant find out any information if 80s get an adjustment, I'd put the splits and new tires on, and then do some testing in controlled circumstances.

That is what I had in mind. Plus I had been in contact with a guy in OZ about wheels themselves. I might shoot him an email about settings just to see if he can provide any insight.
I think that of all the variables, tire selection and air pressure are going to be the most influential.

 

[Kajun]

I dont know about 80s, but I haven't had to adjust anything on my 60 after 5k miles. I read on 40 series thread that some adjustments were necessary. If you cant find out any information if 80s get an adjustment, I'd put the splits and new tires on, and then do some testing in controlled circumstances.

Nice 60 by the way. Color and wheels are classic.

 

[REDrum]

And is there a difference in caster, camber, and or toe on 80s equipped with split rims from the factory settings on 80s not equipped with splits?

I cannot imagine any difference, many alignments are do with wheels off. Suspension lift (and drop) from OEM spec effects camber, cater, toe much more than wheel offset/dish. Some may claim spacers are needed, for stance, if narrow tires are used-but I'm from Missouri on that.

Also, FWIW, many experienced overlanders have advised against split rims over on Expo. Quite a few blown tires due to split rims seemed to have out weighed the risk of no tire mounting equipment with a days drive. Many also seemed to have opted for two spares instead of split rims and carrying spare tires.

In planning my central american FZJ 80 build, I quickly ruled out split rims. Darien Gap aside, there very few areas where I'll be >2 hours from a service station or tire shop. That said, treks to Africa, Mongolia, or east of Urals may warrant reconsideration.

 

[Kajun]

Also, FWIW, many experienced overlanders have advised against split rims over on Expo. Quite a few blown tires due to split rims seemed to have out weighed the risk of no tire mounting equipment with a days drive. Many also seemed to have opted for two spares instead of split rims and carrying spare tires.

In planning my central american FZJ 80 build, I quickly ruled out split rims. Darien Gap aside, there very few areas where I'll be >2 hours from a service station or tire shop. That said, treks to Africa, Mongolia, or east of Urals may warrant reconsideration.

Certainly worth considering these points. Thank you for the feedback.

 

[45Kevin]

These are what I run on my truck. The rims are original. I sandblasted and sprayed then with tremco rust paint and primer.

The tires are take-offs from imported 70 series mine trucks.

I mounted them myself, with very little effort. Maybe 20 minutes for the first one and 10 for the other three.

They are not balanced and a very slight shimmy is apparent over 50 mph. It could also be from any of the 8 or 9 pivot points in the steering linkage.


.

 

[george_tlc]

Certainly worth considering these points. Thank you for the feedback.

...
Also, FWIW, many experienced overlanders have advised against split rims over on Expo. Quite a few blown tires due to split rims seemed to have out weighed the risk of no tire mounting equipment with a days drive. Many also seemed to have opted for two spares instead of split rims and carrying spare tires.

...

I've run spilt rims for >100,000 miles on a variety of Oz road surfaces including many many 1000's of miles of badly corrugated road surfaces and have NEVER had a spilt rim cause a tyre to blow. Split rims are very common in Oz and they do not have a reputation for blowing tyres.

The difference I can see between split rims and conventional is that if you puncture a tubeless tyre, the air will leak out rather slowly through the puncture site and the rest of the tyre/rim remains sealed. With a split rim if you puncture a tyre it means you have punctured the tube, the tube being very thin could have a rather large rip and lose air quickly and since the tyre is not sealed on the rim, the entire tyre/tube combo can lose pressure rather quickly which would not be nice if it happens at high speed.

Assembling a split rim wheel takes more 'clean' steps that a tubeless, since you need to make sure that the inside is clean of all contaminants or you'll be repairing again.

- This means you need to pull the tyre off along with the tube and the rust ring.
- Clean all dirt/sand etc. Re-install the rust ring and make sure it is clean, remove any stuck on dirt/sand/rust.
- Then repair the tube or replace with a new (or previously repaired one).
- Then you need to examine the inside of the tyre where the puncture occurred (MARK the tyre relative to the valve stem with some tyre chalk BEFORE removing the tyre from the rim). Remove the puncture causing material (nail/sharp rock/wood stake etc). If the hole is of any size I will ALWAYS apply a patch on the inside of the tyre, especially if a steel belt is damaged! This step is essential to preventing the tube from being damaged again - and THIS is what can lead to a more catastrophic re-puncture that allows air to escape rapidly.

Follow the steps and you won't have problems a few (or more) miles down the road due to a poorly repaired puncture.

I will continue to run split rims in Oz, repairing them is just too easy when out in the middle of nowhere. On one trip I had 3 punctures within a few miles due to some very nasty terrain. Having 3 spares would have been ridiculous.

On a trip 6 years ago with 2 other mates along (they weren't running split rims), one had 4 punctures and the other 5 puncture in a two week spell that were NOT all repairable with plugs. One of the mates had a very nice bead breaker (http://www.ozeshop.com.au/beadbreaker.html) that allowed them to remove the tyres off their wide rims AND reinstall them easily. With that style of bead breaker, I'd consider running conventional rims since it made the job very easy.

The one thing we did learn is that you can't just apply a cold vulcanising patch on the inside of a modern tyre without some prep work. Due to the silicone coatings used as mold release agents when the tyres are made, the vulcanising fluid will not work and the patch won't fuse to the inside of the tyre. This means an extra step to remove the silicone coating to allow the cold vulcanisation process to work. There are cleaning agents (fluids) and mechanical steps that will prepare the tyre surface for successful patching.

Anyhow, I run split rims in Oz and wouldn't change. Mates run wide rims/tyres and with the right gear they can repair serious tyre damage as well and having a tube along just in case is not a bad idea.

Either way, you must learn how to repair a tyre in the field because punctures don't necessarily occur only once before you can reach civilisation... Having the gear with you to remove the tyre also means you can take a spare tyre if needed versus an entire spare wheel. On one long trip in oz (about 1000 miles across the desert) I lashed a spare tyre to my existing spare (or the rear tyre carrier) of course we never had a single flat that trip

cheers,
george.

 

[se2000]

What safety equipment do you use when you inflate a split rim? Seems a cage would not be practical off road. At least a clamp valve and a long whip to keep you out of harms way.

 

[george_tlc]

What safety equipment do you use when you inflate a split rim? Seems a cage would not be practical off road. At least a clamp valve and a long whip to keep you out of harms way.

These aren't "truck" split rims, the rim "snaps" into place and will not "pop" off when being inflated. I put some air into the tube, then use a rubber mallet to get the bead to seat and then continue inflating. If I'm particularly scared that day I can just slip the whole wheel (split rim down) under the 4wd before inflating...

cheers,
george.