random thoughts and questions on EGTs and BTUs and boost (1 Viewer)

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psi is only 1 dimensional

 
psi is only 1 dimensional



Anything of interest in there?

Your turbo is pretty big. The sort of thing you'd size for a mud thrower. Are you struggling with high EGT for the first half of the rpm range?
 
Anything of interest in there?

Your turbo is pretty big. The sort of thing you'd size for a mud thrower. Are you struggling with high EGT for the first half of the rpm range?
high EGTs is 900F high for the first half i don't think so...
having a hard time getting it past 1250F i think i need to turn some fuel up.
 
100%, the boost number means very little. Air density and flow is what's important.

Another thing which was very briefly touched on in that video was the efficiency islands and the surge line. Often those turbos that boost really fast look great on the boost gauge but in reality they are operating at or before the surge line where the efficiency is terrible during spool producing less air density and flow. Compare that to a better sized turbo which may look slow and too big according to those that spend too much time looking at the boost gauge but is actually providing a heap more air density and flow into the cylinders as it's moving through the more efficient islands which makes more power and less EGT.
 
100%, the boost number means very little. Air density and flow is what's important.

Another thing which was very briefly touched on in that video was the efficiency islands and the surge line. Often those turbos that boost really fast look great on the boost gauge but in reality they are operating at or before the surge line where the efficiency is terrible during spool producing less air density and flow. Compare that to a better sized turbo which may look slow and too big according to those that spend too much time looking at the boost gauge but is actually providing a heap more air density and flow into the cylinders as it's moving through the more efficient islands which makes more power and less EGT.
100% I need to get a meter to measure air density I was looking at the Banks Monster Guage non-obd but it's quite expensive once I add all the sensors. i wonder what alternatives are out there
 
100% I need to get a meter to measure air density I was looking at the Banks Monster Guage non-obd but it's quite expensive once I add all the sensors. i wonder what alternatives are out there

Air density is just pressure and temperature. You know the pressure and the intercooler job is to control temperature.
 
Air density is just pressure and temperature. You know the pressure and the intercooler job is to control temperature.
Doesn’t the equation include temperature and altitude aswell?

 
Also humidity
this is why i believe in water injection ( albeit being a layman), humidity and density ( and less temp adding to the density) would seem to add to the air charge potency
 
this is why i believe in water injection ( albeit being a layman), humidity and density ( and less temp adding to the density) would seem to add to the air charge potency
Yeah I’m leaning towards water meth. Oh man hope there are some good 4th of July sales.
 
Doesn’t the equation include temperature and altitude aswell?


I've already said temperature. Altitude changes pressure.

PV=mRT.


this is why i believe in water injection ( albeit being a layman), humidity and density ( and less temp adding to the density) would seem to add to the air charge potency

What problem are you trying to solve? Matching fuel to air is a tuning issue. With a good tune there is no need for anything else.
 
More nonsense.... There doesn't need to be a problem to solve to run a water / meth system. Even if you had the most perfect tune in the world there's still benefits and performance gains to made with an injection system.
 
well, really Im pretty happy with the way its tuned when its cold (70f or so) and humid out, but when it gets hot out and there's an extra load on the engine (hills etc) it heats up a bit too fast for me, i guess it would just be nice to get the same performance out of it when its hot out as when its cold out , if you would consider that a 'problem to solve'
 
well, really Im pretty happy with the way its tuned when its cold (70f or so) and humid out, but when it gets hot out and there's an extra load on the engine (hills etc) it heats up a bit too fast for me, i guess it would just be nice to get the same performance out of it when its hot out as when its cold out , if you would consider that a 'problem to solve'

Coolant temperature?
 
egt first, up to a sustained 1200-1225f, then the coolant will start to rise slowly up to 208-210 then i get out of it and ease up, just would be nice to not have to get out of it and hold egt at 1150-1175f or so and not have coolant start to rise off 195-200f
 
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egt first, up to a sustained 1200-1225f, then the coolant will start to rise slowly up to 208-210 then get out of it and ease up, just would be nice to not have to get out of it and hold egt at 1150-1175f or so and not have coolant start to rise off 195-200f
once after all your fuel and air tuning if you want to keep your foot down without increasing EGT then Water/Meth injection is your answer.
 
egt first, up to a sustained 1200-1225f, then the coolant will start to rise slowly up to 208-210 then i get out of it and ease up, just would be nice to not have to get out of it and hold egt at 1150-1175f or so and not have coolant start to rise off 195-200f

Those temperatures are perfectly safe. Pure water with a 15psi cap won't boil until ~120C (250F).
 
Im running the lil 3B at 12psi and cant get the pyro above 550 pre turbo :( struggles to even reach that, sad times
 
Im running the lil 3B at 12psi and cant get the pyro above 550 pre turbo :( struggles to even reach that, sad times
crank the fuel there boss
 

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