PTO Winch Information (1 Viewer)

[Glenn-BJ74]

Here is some information on the Landcruiser PTO winch which may be of use to others with similar OEM equipment. I have found the PTO gear case relatively maintenance free, but the downstream components typically need maintenance.

My PTO winch drive assembly for a 1989 BJ74 has 3 drive shafts, 2 pillow blocks and 4 U-joints and 3 slip joints and flanges at either end. It is about 6.5 feet in length.

Shear Pin

The shear pin is the first issue to deal with. The OEM shear pin and the so-called upgraded pin will break under a light load. If this happens during a recovery the large worm gear will hold cable tension. If the pin breaks during a self-recovery the vehicle will be immobilized. Once the vehicle is blocked the cable winch tension can only be released by removing the PTO driveshaft and removing the worm gear flange and manually turning the shaft to release cable tension.

The dog gear cannot be disengaged under tension. A worm gear is auto braking, which means only the PTO shaft can make the worm gear turn, but the worm gear cannot turn the shaft. So the shaft must be turned to release drum tension. The factory upgrade shear pin will break at a light load (1.5 tons), so it must be replaced. I replaced my shear pin with a two 6 mm cap screws and nuts it has been fine ever since.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

U-Joints

I found my 4 U-joints to be very stiff and dried out. Toyota used two types of U-joints in their PTOs depending the production date. They changed from the larger greasable U-Joint to a smaller non-greasable U-Joint around 1982. I have a 1989 Landcruiser, which uses the smaller non-greasable U-joint.
The smaller non-greasable U-joints were used on the rear driveshaft of the 1968-74 Corolla and 55 and 60 steering columns. Although the Toyota U-joints are still available, they are non-greasable. I found that greasable after-market U-joints are available from Precision (#395), and fit very well. They can be ordered on-line for $12.00-$17.00 each. I replaced all 4 U-joints and the drive shafts are now much quieter.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

PTO Drum Brake Shoe

Near the dog gear there is a little brake shoe which provides drag on the drum when the PTO is disengaged from the winch. This is suppose to prevent the wire rope from uncoiling on the drum, when not under tension. My brake shoe was not providing enough friction and the wire rope was always uncoiling resulting in a loosely wrapped rat's nest. This can result in the cable to dig under the top wrap which bends and twists the cable. Not good

Rather than replace the brake shoe, which had a lot of brake material left, I made a small sheet metal shim and put it under the brake-shoe to provide more friction. To do access the two screws holding the little brake pad I had to bang out the top pin and push the rod down to pull out the top and bottom pin collar that move the dog gear in and out. I cleaned out the brake shoe spring (covered in concealed mud) and lubricated the shaft and reassembled everything and replaced the pin. I also put a hacksaw line on the top of the shaft to help with the alignment of the holes in the shaft and top handle for the pin.

Dog Gear Position

The FSM says to have the dog gear disengaged when not in use, to prevent accidental engagement of the PTO. Although there is a tendency to leave the winch dog gear engaged to keep tension on the rope coil, it should only be engaged only when winching. With the brake pad fixed, this is really not necessary.
I did not do this one time and drove away after forgetting to disengage the PTO control lever after a frantic self-recovery and tore my license plate off as the winch was still engaged. With the brake pad fixed when the dog gear is disengage the winch drum has sufficient tension to prevent the coil from unspooling. The tendency to unspool is greater with wire ripe than synthetic, because the wire rope is much stiffer. Additional tension on the rope can be maintained by using a bungee cord around the top on the drum to keep the winch coil tight.

Worm Gear Case Oil

I was concerned about what I read about using GL5 gear oil in the PTO worm gear case because of the bronze worm gear. Some suggest using only GL4 gear oil that has less sulphur based additives that are easier on the bronze gear. I checked the FSM and they recommend GL4, which is different than GL5. I use Redline MT90 is a synthetic SAE 75W90,which is a GL4 gear oil. The worm gear case takes 0.3 liters ( 0.3 US qt). I incorrectly advised earlier that GL5 could be used.

PTO Output Seal

I had to replace the PTO output seal (on the bottom drive from the T-Case) as with a new OEM seal (part#90311-35004).

Operating Instructions

 

[scrapdaddy]

Thanks Glenn,

That's some good information. I've got a PTO winch for my 55 project and this will come in handy!

 

[landyNZ]

Good write up!

Older winch head castings have the worm shaft extending all the way through the worm case, which means if the sheer pin sheers then you can wind the drum off with a socket. Modern castings don't have it, and also don't have the filler hole near the top of the housing.

 

[peteinjp]

And if the rope is under tension but still at a distance you can release the dog by jumping on the rope while someone pulls on the dog lever. This will free up the tension with a good bounce. Just be sure someone is ready to brake if your truck is in a position in which it may roll down hill.

The early joints were larger and are NLA.


Pete

 

[phoenix60]

Glenn, you had replaced the wire cable with synthetic, how long of a winch line were you able to get on the spool?

 

['69 Yota]

Worm Gear Case Oil

I was concerned about what I read about using GL5 gear oil in the PTO worm gear case because of the bronze worm gear. Some suggest using only GL4 gear oil that has less sulphur based additives that are easier on the bronze gear. I checked the FSM and they recommend that either GL4 or GL5 gear oils can be used.




When it says "GL4 or GL5" , is there a specific weight oil to use? Like straight 90 wight or 85-140? I did a little google reading on the difference between GL4 and GL5, but didn't see anything regarding weights.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Glenn, you had replaced the wire cable with synthetic, how long of a winch line were you able to get on the spool?

I put on 100' of 3/8" Amsteel, replacing 125' of 5/16" wire rope. I also cut off the channel and roller fairlead and put a 3/8' steel front plate with a hawse fairlead - reduced the front porch about 4".

https://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-bc-coastal-cruisers/578280-front-porch-renovation.html

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Worm Gear Case Oil

I was concerned about what I read about using GL5 gear oil in the PTO worm gear case because of the bronze worm gear. Some suggest using only GL4 gear oil that has less sulphur based additives that are easier on the bronze gear. I checked the FSM and they recommend that either GL4 or GL5 gear oils can be used.




When it says "GL4 or GL5" , is there a specific weight oil to use? Like straight 90 wight or 85-140? I did a little google reading on the difference between GL4 and GL5, but didn't see anything regarding weights.

I incorrectly stated (been subsequently revised) that GL5 could be used in the worm gear case - the FSM says GL4. Use GL4, such as Redline MT90.

 

[Tim-HJ61]

Thanks for the operating instructions, really helpful seeing Toyota recommend fourth gear.

First time I tried a self recovery the OEM sheer pin broke, and I've never regained confidence in using the winch.
I drilled out the hole and put a stronger pin in place. I've done a few pulls since, but nothing that seemed too heavy.

At some stage I was told to only use first gear.
What do others use, and how do you tell you're overloading the winch to change gear?

Tim

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[Big Ed]

I drilled out the hole and put a stronger pin in place.

I think all I would do here is a larger diameter aluminum pin. Other materials wont shear,something will break first.

 

[Tim-HJ61]

Thanks Ed,

Sorry I didn't explain myself clearly.

What I meant by 'what do others use', was what gear do others select to give drive to the winch?

I had always understood to not use anything other than first gear, but I noticed the Toyota instructions in the images above say 'engage fourth gear'.

How do you determine the appropriate gear to winch with? And how many engine revs? Are their 'rules' to follow, or is it just whatever seems right at the time?

Tim

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD

 

[Big Ed]

Thanks Ed,

Sorry I didn't explain myself clearly.

What I meant by 'what do others use', was what gear do others select to give drive to the winch?

I had always understood to not use anything other than first gear, but I noticed the Toyota instructions in the images above say 'engage fourth gear'.

How do you determine the appropriate gear to winch with? And how many engine revs? Are their 'rules' to follow, or is it just whatever seems right at the time?

Tim

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD

I was referring to the line where you said "I drilled out the hole and put a stronger pin in place".

You were referring to the shear pin right?

 

[Tim-HJ61]

Yes Big Ed. I was referring to the shear pin in that sentence.

However my query really was about what forward gear to use, and mention of the shear pin was just by the by.

Ta

Tim

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD

 

[Big Ed]

What type of stronger pin did you put in? It needs to be aluminum.

 

[maat]

what gear do people use when pulling with the PTO?

 

[scrapdaddy]

Here's the number off the pillow block bearing. 6205DU Japan NSK 627. The seals are not available through Toyota, either. Hopefully find aftermarket ones.

 

[peteinjp]

I think the design for the pillow block may be for use with unsealed bearings. On my older cars the bearings were unsealed and there was always felt and or rubber seals in addition to the bearing to keep it clean. All of those bearings have been replaced with sealed bearings and the felt/rubber seals are obsolete. I'd hazard a guess that when the pillow block was designed it was fitted with an unsealed bearing which as the years went by was superseded with a sealed unit- but the seals were still added. At any rate I bet a sealed bearing would give reasonable life on its own.



Pete

 

[scrapdaddy]

You might very well be right. I got new bearings, so that number I posted is good, but I forgot to bring along the shaft, so we couldn't match up for the seals. I don't think the dust seals were doing anything, so maybe a oil seal will at least help keep out crud.

There is a space between the bearing and the snap ring, where the one seal went. I'm not sure if the bearing would stay put without it. I'll know more later.

I had it wrong, The snap ring goes between the bearing and the large seal, if that makes sence.