PTO Winch Information (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Glenn-BJ74
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Not much agreement on what they are "rated" at. Toyota literature at various points in time have used different numbers and its not always clear what the units of measurement are or whether we are talking safe limits or absolute failure which is how modern winches are often talked about.
People have used them to do pulls which had it been modern electric would put it at the 10k-ish sort of mark. Some people have had pins fail at less, some at more, some have never broken a pin in the winching they do. There are so many variables in terms of angle of drag, depth of wheels in the bog, how viscous the bog is, how well the system is maintained etc.
They are very strong but remember they were sold by dealers to people buying cruisers off the lot. Toyota was not in the business of selling winches to people who could then roll out and try to win the King of the Hammers in a stock 40.
Solid winch, underated officially, under and overated by enthusiasts depending on their experiences. Would get a rating of 8-10k if sold now.
maat
yeah nah maybe
thanks for the info 
Archerfield Precision Engineering PTO Winch
Hi,
Need your help to find out where to a shear pin goes.
The winch worm shaft is working and driving the cog but I cant engage the winch because the shear pin has broken.
Can you assist
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Kind regards
Carolyn
Hi,
Need your help to find out where to a shear pin goes.
The winch worm shaft is working and driving the cog but I cant engage the winch because the shear pin has broken.
Can you assist
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Kind regards
Carolyn
Sometimes it is tough to find because the pin shears and is still in the shaft. Using a headlamp I was able to find mine and punch it out with a thin quality punch. Took me 1.5 to 2 hrs. Just as fast to pull the winch off and really be able to see it.
the pto winch is a beatifull thing.
I have drilled out the original shearpin as it is to weak.
And put in a M6 bolt with a lock nut.
There is enough room on the yoke to do that.
This still breaks if put enough force on it, I broke by m6 bolt shear when I accidentally left the winch on and hooked to the bumper.
An m6 bolt is still a shear, and will break before the winch does.
I use 3/8 steelcable.
It will never stop working, just make sure the seals are good and the bearings are shimmed well. the yokes should be in good shape also.
I have done very hard pull's, up hill at an angle and trough deep yuk.
BE VERY CAREFULL AS IT DOES NOT STOP BY LETTING GO OF A BUTTON. (ELECTRIC)
SOMEONE NEEDS TO BE INSIDE THE VEHICLE TO PRESS THE CLUTCH.
I have drilled out the original shearpin as it is to weak.
And put in a M6 bolt with a lock nut.
There is enough room on the yoke to do that.
This still breaks if put enough force on it, I broke by m6 bolt shear when I accidentally left the winch on and hooked to the bumper.
An m6 bolt is still a shear, and will break before the winch does.
I use 3/8 steelcable.
It will never stop working, just make sure the seals are good and the bearings are shimmed well. the yokes should be in good shape also.
I have done very hard pull's, up hill at an angle and trough deep yuk.
BE VERY CAREFULL AS IT DOES NOT STOP BY LETTING GO OF A BUTTON. (ELECTRIC)
SOMEONE NEEDS TO BE INSIDE THE VEHICLE TO PRESS THE CLUTCH.
i always pull in first gear and use low range first when i use the tires for assist ,i got rid of the factory shear pin 40 years ago after my first pull and went to 3/8ths cable and have never looked back .still using the same winch and it has pulled stuff it never should have .when you have a winch everyone knows your phone no.lol
Excellent information.
I have been an electric winch guy for over 35 years and I just acquired my first PTO on my "new" 1988 BJ74. This is a steep learning curve and I am still trying to wrap my head around shear pins and spooling the winch as the vehicle powers its self in a self-recovery situation.
Electric winches stall instead of breaking something you have to stop and fix and you can stop and start them independently from the vehicle powering the wheels.
Do stock pins really shear at loads as low as ~3,000 lbs?
If one chooses to self-power the vehicle for self-recovery does the winch line speed roughly equal vehicle speed? If so is that in low or high range?
School the PTO newb.........
I have been an electric winch guy for over 35 years and I just acquired my first PTO on my "new" 1988 BJ74. This is a steep learning curve and I am still trying to wrap my head around shear pins and spooling the winch as the vehicle powers its self in a self-recovery situation.
Electric winches stall instead of breaking something you have to stop and fix and you can stop and start them independently from the vehicle powering the wheels.
Do stock pins really shear at loads as low as ~3,000 lbs?
If one chooses to self-power the vehicle for self-recovery does the winch line speed roughly equal vehicle speed? If so is that in low or high range?
School the PTO newb.........
In my BJ42 low range first gear helps ease the pull, low range second gear will try to run slightly ahead of the winch, which risks a shock load if you slip back.
Thank you. That is exactly what I was trying to find out.
I just read thru this whole tread...good info as I will get around to replacing all my bearings soon. I'm new to the pto winch as well. So its ok to leave the tcase in gear and engage the pto as well? I've only used mine with the tcase in neutral so far. The strange thing I find is the owners manual tell you to use 4th gear??? That is way to fast in my opinion. 1st or 2nd works best. Plus if you look in the FSM it state to use 1st or 2nd also.
Dan,
Is your pto winch the same as the 40/60 series or is it the later style? I'm not sure what the reduction is on the later type but the shear pin is 1/3 again larger than the early type. I use that pin on the early type on my bj44.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...o-winch-shear-pin-u-joint-part-numbers-3.html
Pete
Is your pto winch the same as the 40/60 series or is it the later style? I'm not sure what the reduction is on the later type but the shear pin is 1/3 again larger than the early type. I use that pin on the early type on my bj44.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...o-winch-shear-pin-u-joint-part-numbers-3.html
Pete
I just wanted to add a couple of small mods that I did during my recent winch rebuild. Upon disassembly of the unit I saw evidence of oxidation on the main shaft that could have been prevented with regular greasings. However the only way to do so is to disassemble the winch so I added 2 grease fittings. One to the lower side of the rt side bushing block. The lower side is beefier so I thought it better to drill than the top. And a second to the drum itself. This will be removed and replaced with a set screw prior to winding the rope. I simply did not run the tap all the way through the 10mm thick casting so the screw bottoms out and is held in place. I occasionally re spool the wing to get the wire on good and straight and I figure that will be when I add grease.
Pete
Pete
My limited research has established that many of the replacement part numbers are common with the 1970s 40 Series winch. One critical part number that is different is the shear pin. As my winch now sits it is possible to grab the yoke attached to the winch head and wiggle it sideways quite a bit.IE it is "sloppy".
those toyo shear pins are pretty under rated and weak its hard to upgrade them to anything much bigger without modifying the coupling as there isn't enough meat left to drill them out any bigger, my trucks a bit of a hybrid and uses a coupling off a Nissan patrol/safari with a 8mm shear pin and its rock solid the trucks done some pretty high load winches and stood up to it ok, you can overload and destroy the winches but you get to learn the limitations and capabilities of them and the winch starts to tell you when it needs you to back off a bit
Sudam, Did that coupling fit right onto the 40 series winch shaft? How is it fixed to the worm gear shaft?
Dan, My yoke is loose on the worm gear shaft as well. Not sure if it is supposed to be or not. The 70 series did come with a completely different pto driven winch as well- hence the question. I thought this might be the winch that the larger pin ws designed for. I think this pic is of the later 70 unit: http://minkara.carview.co.jp/en/ima...ra/userstorage/000/005/049/158/cadf39c30d.jpg Pete
Dan, My yoke is loose on the worm gear shaft as well. Not sure if it is supposed to be or not. The 70 series did come with a completely different pto driven winch as well- hence the question. I thought this might be the winch that the larger pin ws designed for. I think this pic is of the later 70 unit: http://minkara.carview.co.jp/en/ima...ra/userstorage/000/005/049/158/cadf39c30d.jpg Pete
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Both generations of winches have loose input yolk to wormshaft tolerances.
Pretty sure it's by design, so that when the pin shears the deformed pin doesn't jam the yolk to the shaft.
Pretty sure it's by design, so that when the pin shears the deformed pin doesn't jam the yolk to the shaft.
Good point.
Good day, new to the forum here. I have recentlly moved overseas after 12 years of Landcruizing and just bought another Cruizer with the Toyota PTO winch. First recovery the winch was making some funny noise (the guy who sold it said everything worked perfect) and quickly found out there was no gear oil in the input gear case. Realised there was no input oil seal into the winch housing or case. Earlier in the thread there was mention of a Toyota oil seal replaced with an aftermarket OEM part No. Can anyone clarify if the seal P/N is for the shaft input seal into the winch case (housing). Or if I could get a P/N for that seal. My resources here are very limited plus the language bearer. Thanks in advance...
