Project "Sparkles"-1997 LX450 Gen V 6.2 Swap (2 Viewers)

[mattnandie]

Here is a question for the class. My oil guage is pinning to H when I key on (no start). I currently have one white wire running to the sender. I don’t remember there ever being 2 wires to it but I’ve been wrong before. The EWD SHOWS 2 WIRES. White and one brown that traces to ground. Am I missing a ground from the copper “pin” on the center of the sender?

 

[highharrison]

Here is a question for the class. My oil guage is pinning to H when I key on (no start). I currently have one white wire running to the sender. I don’t remember there ever being 2 wires to it but I’ve been wrong before. The EWD SHOWS 2 WIRES. White and one brown that traces to ground. Am I missing a ground from the copper “pin” on the center of the sender? View attachment 3614447

Yes, there should be 2 connections to the sender unit. The same wire splits towards the end and will have 2 grounding points that connect to the oil pressure sender.

I'll try and find a pic.

 

[geologic]

Here is the install of the Tejas kit. In the first pic you see the bracket bolts to the factory vacuum pump location and you see the cut out for the oil pressure sender (if you want) I’m either putting my factory oil sender there( with an adapter) or on the oil cooler block off I ordered from Earls.

The Tejas kit is 2 parts and sandwiches the Saginaw pump in place. It’s VERY SOLID. and I don’t foresee any issues with motor mounts, frame, or power steering gear box…but I guess wok will find out. View attachment 3559209View attachment 3559210View attachment 3559211View attachment 3559212View attachment 3559213

Doesn’t interfere with steering?

 

[mattnandie]

Doesn’t interfere with steering?

It doesn’t no.

 

[mattnandie]

Throttle Pedal:

Adapting the Gen V “truck” pedal was easy peasy. First I took a piece of 3x2 square tubing and mounted the new pedal to it. Then, using the factory 80 pedal I made a template out of cardboard and drilled holes to match the fire wall. The holes on the firewall for the factory pedal are funky so take your time in making a template. Also, don’t just flip the pedal and use it as a template itself because it’ll be backwards.
Bolt it in using the factory hardware.
Placement (for me) was excellent and the mount is SOLID.

Crack a beer.

 

[mattnandie]

SHIFTER

converting the 96’ shifter to the driver side:
Undo the 2 bolts attaching the shifter and lever to the cross shaft.

Pry off the arms and slide the crass shaft out.

Now you need to clearance the shoulder “deeper” to be able to bolt both pieces to the same side as the cross shaft. The over and shifter are Keyed like a rectangle so grind the shoulder so it’s deeper into the cross shaft.

Cut a clearance section from the shifter mounting plate. I used a drill bit to start 4 holes just cut it with a jig saw.

Bolt it all back together.

 

[mattnandie]

SHIFTER

More pics

 

[sndohio]

SHIFTER
View attachment 3617123
View attachment 3617119View attachment 3617120View attachment 3617121View attachment 3617122More pics

Are you going to use GM shifter cable or Toyota shifter linkage?

 

[mattnandie]

Are you going to use GM shifter cable or Toyota shifter linkage?

I’m using linkage. Unsure what combination as of yet. That’s next

 

[mattnandie]

Update Video:

 

[mattnandie]

Shifter Linkage. The rod and lever (on the transmission) are part of the Torfab kit. I had to bend them for clearance (pretty straight forward) then used a series of nylon lock nuts, washers and rubber bushings to bolt it all up. Shifts well. Driving test pending exhaust next week.

 

[Xylonmedia]

Love the use of the bus bars, thanks for the information about bending the linkage, the pictures and video are really helpful.

How are you planning on controlling “manual” mode with the 10L?

 

[mattnandie]

Love the use of the bus bars, thanks for the information about bending the linkage, the pictures and video are really helpful.

How are you planning on controlling “manual” mode with the 10L?

I ordered the Muscle Car Module from SwapTime. It gives the ability to “tap shift” in manual mode and included a momentary up/down rocker switch that I mounted on the dash in the factory blank space beside the mirror control

 

[Xylonmedia]

I ordered the Muscle Car Module from SwapTime. It gives the ability to “tap shift” in manual mode and included a momentary up/down rocker switch that I mounted on the dash in the factory blank space beside the mirror control

Awesome! I was looking at the muscle car module
On the SwapTime site and wondering how the tap shift works. That clears it up.

 

[mattnandie]

Awesome! I was looking at the muscle car module
On the SwapTime site and wondering how the tap shift works. That clears it up.

Yep it comes already wired just mount the switch and plug it into the harness.

 

[CharlieS]

Made some progress overnight while on baby duty:
Wiring “finished up” (it’s never really finished is it?)
Trans cooler Rad and AC condenser mounted
Hoses
Power steering completed
Air intake done.

View attachment 3613493View attachment 3613494View attachment 3613495

I dig that you are using the factory airbox/filter. The cone filters that a lot of people run wouldn't work well for me offroad. The factory setup is a throwback, but an amazing design.

 

[ZetheGSD]

I dig that you are using the factory airbox/filter. The cone filters that a lot of people run wouldn't work well for me offroad. The factory setup is a throwback, but an amazing design.

I am hoping the factory air box works with this powertrain. As with others I am using this thread as a guide to getting an LT in my 80. I love that Tor is making this adapter as well as swap time supporting our platform.

The concern I have with the factory airbox is all other companies that swap the 6.2L say the factory airbox can’t support the flow of the engine. And companies that have a lot of R&D into 80 conversions like Icon4x4 and others. I would love to keep the factory cyclone style filter as it looks great and is period correct.

 

[mattnandie]

Ya I few drives after I get the exhaust on will tell me if I have enough air flow.

 

[Major Tom]

Matt is his LS swapped cruiser.

 

[daytonadogie]

I am hoping the factory air box works with this powertrain. As with others I am using this thread as a guide to getting an LT in my 80. I love that Tor is making this adapter as well as swap time supporting our platform.

The concern I have with the factory airbox is all other companies that swap the 6.2L say the factory airbox can’t support the flow of the engine. And companies that have a lot of R&D into 80 conversions like Icon4x4 and others. I would love to keep the factory cyclone style filter as it looks great and is period correct.

I tried using the stock air cleaner on my 6 liter LQ4 and it started throwing lean codes at highway speeds. I switched over to a cone filter and the problem disappeared.

Made me rethink using the stock can on my 5.3 build, and am going to switch over when I have time. Here’s a good thread on air intakes

!80 Series V8 5.3 LS swap, Colf Air intake recommendation

What Cold Air Intake do y’all suggest I use to be placed in same area where the original air filter sits on the 92 80 series? Connected to the LS 5.3 , air raid, K&N, rough County?

forum.ih8mud.com

The stock setup looks need and tidy, and it works ok on my 5.3, but these 6.0/6.2 liter engines really need something better. JMHO