Builds Project 16 (2 Viewers)

[BionicCruiser]

so after making those corners, a local club member saw a facebook post and gave me a rusty old 40 body. it will be great for the top rails. I'll still have to skin them myself, there is too much rust down lower. at least the hard top will fit better with a better seal to the outside. I also was able to get some parts we needed like a glove box door, side kick vent door, etc.

I cut out a section of floor that wasn't too rusted, but I'll probably have to get fresh metal for the floor anyway. this body is pretty far gone...

 

[BionicCruiser]

finally some work worth posting again. my parents are visiting and my dad is a way better welder/fabricator than me. so, we got the frame for the cab made and skinned it. Brock was helping the whole way and watching all the welding.

then test fitted it to the front half.

it needs some more trimming and fitting, but it should be mounted up soon.

 

[Ctenosaurian]

Nice work, looks like you are making some solid progress!

 

[BionicCruiser]

thanks! yes good progress.
the cab is welded to the front tub. the body mounts are tacked in.

and the firewall support is cut out and partially replaced with one from the '73 body from my buddy.

still needs a floor in the tub, then finish up the mounts for body and roll cage.

 

[BionicCruiser]

floor is in.

 

[1978freebornred]

have you considered a Toyota truck bed from the 80s? that would look awesome, nice build check out fzj40 he did the same drive train as you did only on a 80 frame. might help with wiring

 

[BionicCruiser]

I have seen his build. I'll look more closely at his wiring. I have the FSM for '97 FZJ80. not sure how close that is to the '95 that I have.

I'm shooting for the flat bed to increase clearance and exit angle and being able to sleep 2. also thinking of some storage under the bed/over the frame. that truck bed idea isn't a bad one though.

 

[1978freebornred]

the truck beds are like 200 for a good one. I considered that for my build but I had everything stretched by the time I thought of it. flatbed camper thing sounds cool though.

 

[BionicCruiser]

got the body mounts finished. they bolt to the plates that the roll bars will weld to.

the middle one got this type of mount.

 

[BionicCruiser]

started the bed today. I ran out of grinder wheel and chop saw blade. the center pieces will be where the gas tank mounts. more tomorrow.

 

[vailTRD]

Is there going to be some sort of bushing on the body mounts? Am i missing something?

 

[BionicCruiser]

no, hard mount to the roll cage with the body sandwiched in between. I did consider it, but decided to go this way. my FJ40 has it done at he cage mounts this way along with the regular body mounts.


worked on the bed for the last 2 days. mostly done. mocked it up with the fuel tank ratchet strapped in. still need fuel tank mounts and the front mount to the frame.

 

[BionicCruiser]

the SOA should give the up travel for the tires. 8" more or less. does that sound like enough?

also had an idea to improve exit angle. what if I cut the frame just after the spring mount and angled it up to meet the bed? like this...

 

[vailTRD]

Sorry if this is a dumb question but what are the benefits of hard mounting the body to the frame like that?

 

[BionicCruiser]

for me it was just easier. I'm sure the problem will be more vibration and noise coming through the frame into the body. but I was also looking for good strong mounts for the roll cage tied into the frame. also not too worried about cabin noise in a mostly open top vehicle.

 

[jericho]

the SOA should give the up travel for the tires. 8" more or less. does that sound like enough?

also had an idea to improve exit angle. what if I cut the frame just after the spring mount and angled it up to meet the bed? like this...

What about cutting the frame in that same spot and shortening the flat bed to where the frame ends? That would make a nice angle.

 

[BionicCruiser]

hey Jarred, yes we thought of that. the thinking is that at a 6' bed, he can sleep in it with a short tailgate or bed extender. if we cut it, it's a 5' bed. I figured we'd make it longer for now and if he ends up going way more hardcore, he can cut it later, easier than lengthening it.

 

[BionicCruiser]

so I'm looking for feedback now-

does the bed look too long after the rear axle? does it sound like a good idea to cut and angle the frame like in my bad photochop? or move the rear axle back? wheel base will be 112" after the front axle gets moved up.

#2- was thinking about the fuel tank this morning and what pump I should use. I need to look inside the FJ60 tank and see if theres a fuel trap in there for when fuel levels get low.
how long is the stock 1fz fuel pump? what are the dimensions of the FZJ80 fuel tank?

 

[BionicCruiser]

ok, I finally got the answers to #2, thanks Beno! but the first kinda snag has caught us now. I opened up the FJ60 tank that I have and Wow!

it is super rusty and doesn't have a fuel trap at all, just baffles. so I need to look at a fuel tank that takes a Toyota EFI fuel pump (as long as they are similar pressures). I can get one from the u-pull it yard maybe. I can cut this tank open on top, clean it(find if it's salvageable or not), weld in a tank trap like this-

epoxy the inside, and weld in a new piece with the right sized hole for a Toyota fuel pump to close it back up. and still looking for suggestions on #1 question in my last post.

 

[BionicCruiser]

well, a trip to the u-pull yard and came home with these-

left one is from an 88 toyota pick up. I believe a 19 gal. and has the required fuel trap-

the other is from a Mazda B-series pickup. I mocked them up with the bed today and I think they will both work for a 34 gallon total. no pics yet.
the only problem I can see is the fill neck will be long for the rear toyota tank and fairly flat. it has to be tucked up pretty high to give room above the rear diff.
the Mazda tank will fill the Toyota tank with an electric external fuel pump.