update: the lights and alarm came back. after analyzing it comes on after a long time in heavy traffic jam. C1252 error coe same as usual. hydro brake booster pump motor. strangely it goes away after leaving the key in on position. brake unit make noise every 6 seconds for a while then all the lights and alarm go away and brake works again for several days or weeks. someone told me the pump motor itself i exactly same as prius 10 brake motor.can someone with engineerig experince share their input?
Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (4 Viewers)
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....Couple that with most hand brake cranks on Land Cruisers are corroded to the point of completely seized because Toyota uses dissimilar metals. Yikes. Glad your young one is safe.
Gawd.. why are these things placed on such a pedestal? Given the small sampling of enthusiasts here, the numbers experiencing total brake failure is simply unacceptable. These things are unsuitable for the road... The folklore of these running 500K miles per engine is nice and all.. but not worth it for undiagnosable imminent brake failures.
20% respondents of the poll experienced brake failure!!!
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hoser
SILVER Star
4Runner, Lexus GX and others makes like Mitsubishi also use the same type of Aisin brake booster.
Lol, yeah the engine, chassis and drivetrain are durable. The engineered to 25 year service intervals is folklore. And its the rest of the car around it that starts having parts wear and fail. They aren't cheap either, reliable and durable doesn't mean cheap to run.
The problem starts with poor and or improper maintenance. 1st overfilling reservoir. 2nd, not flushing brake fluid.
I've seen owners either do not believe in PM or don't believe Land Cruiser need it. Both are wrong. But even an under maintained Land Cruiser, will run longer and safer than most any other vehicle.
I've seen owners either do not believe in PM or don't believe Land Cruiser need it. Both are wrong. But even an under maintained Land Cruiser, will run longer and safer than most any other vehicle.
it would be almost better for the vehicle to fall apart just before the brakes fail. The fact that the drive train may persist, is allowing this glaring break failure to be experienced. Given the weakest link being the brakes, there is little value then having the drivetrain still operable for many thousands of miles.
These brake failures have happened at low miles also. This is not a problem limited 100 series. Any braking systems must be properly maintained. To date, all failed master that I've inspected, failed because of improper maintenance.
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^Maybe it is indeed a maintenance issue. Although, poor maintenance manifesting itself already at low miles is a bit surprising. However, there is also the issue of the system design in that I would hope that if the booster etc fails you could still brake mechanically by pushing the pedal with all your might. That does not seem to be always possible from what I read above. That's the part that bothers me the most.
I would agree. Brake should work better, even with loss of pressure. But they do work, just not good enough.
The issue of poor maintenance at low miles. Is due to hygroscopic nature of brake fluid. Which is time not mileage sensitive.
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When I do the IG off pump brakes 40 times and key on the motor runs for 35 seconds. However, it stopped twice for a second in that 35 second run. Is that normal? I popped off the rubber cap under the ABS module and those two screws were very corroded with chunks of rust falling out of the rubber cap when I pulled it off. I've got 231k miles and no rust/corrosion to speak of, generally. We've got a family vacation with trails planned in a few weeks and now my paranoia has me considering replacing some of this shockingly expensive stuff preemptively. Crazy?
Pause is normal.
I'd just flush the brake fluid for now. See if color turns dark within 3 to 6 months. If not, consider replacing the brake control wire and inspecting the motor.
35 seconds is still good. Mine was at 28 seconds. I thought I read that anything over 40 is a sign of a possible air in system. I live in the rust belt ( real mechanics lol) my assembly looks original ( 05 LX165k). Screws are still shiny. Go figure. Me personally I wouldn't touch or disturb it to after the trip. Enjoy be safe.
Air in system is one reason we see over 40 seconds. The section in the FSM that deals with this time test, of which 30 to 40 seconds is factory spec. Is a section on bleeding. It states re-bleed if over 40 seconds.
But it also gives clues to other issues. Basically the system is designed so that the pressure builds to a predetermined point, and does so within that time frame. If it takes longer, that's a sign of pressure loss. FSM does not gives any reasons for time being less than 30 seconds. I've gotten ~29 second in test with all new brake system including flexible brake lines of which the rear drop downs were extended Slee SS.
If time runs over 40 sec., it very important to find out why.
But it also gives clues to other issues. Basically the system is designed so that the pressure builds to a predetermined point, and does so within that time frame. If it takes longer, that's a sign of pressure loss. FSM does not gives any reasons for time being less than 30 seconds. I've gotten ~29 second in test with all new brake system including flexible brake lines of which the rear drop downs were extended Slee SS.
If time runs over 40 sec., it very important to find out why.
as others have responded, much of the problems are just a maintanence issue...some are even rusted brake lines...
Personally mine was a stripped gear at the accumulator...but I just attribute that to age and bad luck...and the truck gave LOTS of warning before failure.
I had a break failure on another vehicle without warning due to a hole in a line and that was definitely scary
So where can I find the part numbers or supplier for new brake lines? The ones I see in the engine bay have blistered paint and clear corrosion.
Sorry if it's been mentioned before, but is it possible to just to replace this thing with a regular vacuum booster and master cylinder? You'd probably have to go without the ABS but that's not exactly a major concern given the fact it seems these things can be pretty life threatening when they fail.
Potentially one from a 105 series? I think those came with a conventional system.
I've had that thought myself. I'd like to hear from the Mud brain trust on the possibility.
I’d like to know as well. If it’ll work, I’ll probably do it.
