Need help '67 FJ will not run! (1 Viewer)

[Weehce]

Hello all new here. I myself am a diehard Jeeper. However, My brother has ventured into the world of Landcruisers ('78. FJ40 with Chevy Tbi V8 and a very sad for it self '67 stock F engine). We are in need of some help. I have been Jeep Mechanic with 15 years dealership experience. But I must admit I've come up lacking with regard to the '67.

When my brother purchased the '67. The engine was similar-seized. As anyone we when through the steps and with in a few days had the engine freed up. Changed fluids, battery, starter, plugs, points, condenser, coil. And she fired up and ran long enough for my brother to take her around the block and have the engine seize again half way back. That sucked.

We started al over again. Got the engine freed up how ever the new coil fried and damaged the dist. Or maybe the other way around no way to be sure. In any case we replace the coil again and the dist.

Now we get to our problem we have been unable to get it to run for more that 15-20 minute since we replace the distributor. We have stabed this thing 20-30 times. And yes it's in time. Pointer lined up on the line, rotor pointing at #4 spark plug. Cyl#1 TDC compression struck. The engine runs great for 15-20 minute and then starts to mis-fire and run rough. It gets worse and worse until it finally will not stay running. And then it will not start

 

[78fj40mg]

Did you check for gas flow to the carb?
Is the fuel filter clean?
Do you have a clean gas tank? Meaning free of rust and other debris.

 

[cjgoode]

X2 on replace the fuel filters and check the fuel flow. Sounds like you are using just a little more gas then you can get into your carburetor and after 15 minutes the carb is running dry. Might also need to rebuild the carb, could be a blockage at the carb inlet. They have a little screen filter at the inlet right before the float valve.

 

[shelfboy1]

your lucky the 60s fj40s are the easiest and simple fj40s to work on x2 or 3 on the fuel issue

 

[Weehce]

Yes should have include this the Carter YF that was on it failed before we left the drive way. I had a Weber we put on it and it ran great. Drained the tank, before all this and added new fuel and fuel filter. It also has a fuel pressure reg that went with the Weber.i know for sure fuel is getting to the carb. It acts like its losing its timing or going out of timing after it runs for 15-20 minutes. Because I can reset everything and it runs again just for 15-20 minutes then starts to mis-fire and then eventually dies and then you can't start it. Until you reset everything. I've never run across something like this before. But I do not have a lot of experience with Toyota's. I'm finding there isn't a lot of information about the early FJ's on-line. And parts are hard to come by.

 

[Trollhole]

You have oil pressure?

Possible keyway broken on timing gear?

You running a ballast resistor?

 

[fhawk5]

Put a vacuum gauge on it..Observe when it warms up.

 

[handcannon]

You have oil pressure?

This is critical. Being a mechanic you know this already, but you may not be aware that on these old design motors the oil pump is driven by the key slot on the end of the distributor. The distributor can turn properly even when the oil pump isn't. Every time the distributor has been R & R'ed double check for oil pressure.

Put a vacuum gauge on it..Observe when it warms up.

This is a strong possibility. The aluminum intake manifold is known to crack directly below the carb, where the hot exhaust just happens to be able to be in direct contact with the aluminum intake (often caused by a heat riser flapper not operating properly and closing as the motor/exhaust warms up). A cracked intake can hold vacuum when cold, but start losing vacuum as heat slowly allows the crack to open.

Don

 

[handcannon]

I meant to add a story of what I once experienced. On a 67 Datsun Roadster I had I swapped the stock, in the block cam motor, for a used, larger, higher performance, overhead cam motor. I got the motor installed and running good so I took it for a spin. I got about a half mile and it suddenly died and wouldn't re-start. I found the distributor turned to full stop, so I re-timed it. It ran great again, but it would randomly stop/die suddenly with the same symptoms as before. This happened several times before I found the real cause.

When the motor had been pulled from the original vehicle the person doing the work had dropped a small nut down inside the distributor and didn't get it out. That nut bounced around in there and would randomly jam between the advance mechanism and the distributor housing. Each time this happened the distributor would suddenly be turned to full stop, losing timing.

Check the inside of the distributor and make sure nothing is contacting the housing and causing the distributor to turn.

Don

 

[Adrift]

Considering the OP is saying the motor has "locked up" I translate this as seizing, and that it seized again while it was running, something bad happened. More than just fuel flow, which might be a current small problem, I would focus on the big problem that caused the engine to seize first.

 

[Weehce]

I don't doubt there may be something wrong internally with the engine. Yes I'm aware of the distributor driven oil pump. Jeep also works this way. Oil pressure has been fine. I will check the manifold. I also plan to check compression I think this may tell the tale. I expect to find very low to non existing compression in at least 2-3 of the cylinders.

This vehicle we don't have a lot of history on. My brother purchase both in an estate sale. He was told they both ran. The 67 hadn't run in a very, very long time. The engine was seized from sitting so long. It did not take a lot to bust it loose both times. But still I think it's very tired. He's just wants to get it running so he can sell it.

The built up 78 is his toy. V8, Ranger torque splitter, ARB air lockers, warn 8247 winch, lift kit, big tires. Probably not some of y'all's idea of a cruiser. But he's in love with it.

 

[Weehce]

You have oil pressure?

Possible keyway broken on timing gear?

You running a ballast resistor?

Yes we replace the old ballast resister with a new one when the coil and distributor failed.

 

[Weehce]

Thank you all for your help. These are all great ideas and things to check. Some I've check and some not, some hadn't thought or heard of. Thanks .
Does this engine have timing gears or a timing chain?

 

[cruiserfj45]

I have heard of condensers doing the same thing. Try throwing a different one, they are cheep.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Does this engine have timing gears or a timing chain?

All cruiser engines timing was gear driven until the 1FZ which you guys got in 93 I think, and that has a timing chain. The v8s and the 90s and never diesels have timing belts.

 

[Weehce]

I have heard of condensers doing the same thing. Try throwing a different one, they are cheep.

Thanks I'll give that a try.

All cruiser engines timing was gear driven until the 1FZ which you guys got in 93 I think, and that has a timing chain. The v8s and the 90s and never diesels have timing belts.

 

[Weehce]

All cruiser engines timing was gear driven until the 1FZ which you guys got in 93 I think, and that has a timing chain. The v8s and the 90s and never diesels have timing belts.

Stupid iPhones! Timing gears got it, thanks.