Nicely Done ! 
My "Rattle-can Resto," or How I Spent My Summer (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cruiser enthuiser
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Awesome! I love the color and Its good to see the bikini 
i've been looking forward to the completion of your project - you certainly did a really good job! Doesn't even matter if you are using rattle can.. patience and attention to detail will always pay off
lookin awesome, man. i'm sure you've heard by now, but the hell creek kit is pretty sweet for alot less money. i've put two sets on 40's (both 4 inch) and they ride great. i'll never fork out the dough for an ome kit as long as hell creek is still making kits. just my .02
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Looks cool... I may still that color for my street rod.
- Thread starter
- #66
Thanks for the compliments guys! Certainly not complete yet but definetely at a milestone. I'll keep this thread updated as I complete work on the doors and hardtop, wiring, etc. 
-Ed
-Ed
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This rig looks amazing. I'm glad to see it shape up so well. I bet not one soul misses that post-apocalyptic cammo job.
I couldn't resist:
Mud. The PO of my rig smeared Bondo over mud on my rear corners.
I just bought the truck, and was hosing down the undercarriage, and the inevitable crack in the bondo began spewing red-brown mud like a muskrat hole in a winter rainstorm.
I agree: "What do people think!?!?!?!"
I couldn't resist:
Mud. The PO of my rig smeared Bondo over mud on my rear corners.
I just bought the truck, and was hosing down the undercarriage, and the inevitable crack in the bondo began spewing red-brown mud like a muskrat hole in a winter rainstorm.
I agree: "What do people think!?!?!?!"
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That's a great looking '40 and a well written story. It's interesting to see how others achieve the goal of a reliable, good looking cruiser.
That roll bar brought back memories. I had a similar bar in mine and figured that sheet metal cap was for mounting lights or some other '70's hipsterdoofus appliance (lightbar, siren, foghorn, radar... ) until someone on MUD pointed out that they were for roll overs in sand. The greater surface area would support the vehicle in soft conditions. I ended up removing the 'cap', locating the rear bar to the back of the mount and welding the support 90 degrees between the 2 bars. It created more of a cage to protect the rear passengers.
With SOR family top.
That roll bar brought back memories. I had a similar bar in mine and figured that sheet metal cap was for mounting lights or some other '70's hipsterdoofus appliance (lightbar, siren, foghorn, radar... ) until someone on MUD pointed out that they were for roll overs in sand. The greater surface area would support the vehicle in soft conditions. I ended up removing the 'cap', locating the rear bar to the back of the mount and welding the support 90 degrees between the 2 bars. It created more of a cage to protect the rear passengers.
With SOR family top.
- Thread starter
- #71
I like what you did with the bar. I was thinking of doing something along those same lines. My goal is to get jump seats back there again and provide passengers a bit of protection. By the way, I never get tired of seeing pics of your rig, Fireflyr, one of the best looking on the forum.
-Ed
-Ed
That's a great looking '40 and a well written story. It's interesting to see how others achieve the goal of a reliable, good looking cruiser.
That roll bar brought back memories. I had a similar bar in mine and figured that sheet metal cap was for mounting lights or some other '70's hipsterdoofus appliance (lightbar, siren, foghorn, radar... ) until someone on MUD pointed out that they were for roll overs in sand. The greater surface area would support the vehicle in soft conditions. I ended up removing the 'cap', locating the rear bar to the back of the mount and welding the support 90 degrees between the 2 bars. It created more of a cage to protect the rear passengers.
With SOR family top.
- Thread starter
- #72
Door Rehab
Finally got the doors on after working diligently on them for the last few weeks. I'm quite happy with the results even tho I was skeptical initially that I could pull off the sheet metal repairs. I had fun during the process and took a lot of pics. Please note that my welding skills are terrible and all the repairs were done with a crappy wire feed welder. However, I think the low power of the unit actually helped.
Both doors had some damage from the PO's roll cage. He basically just mashed the doors into the front part of his ill fitting piece of crap cage. Fortnuately they were completely free of rust and otherwise very straight. The following photos show how I repaired them with some pretty basic tools.
Finally got the doors on after working diligently on them for the last few weeks. I'm quite happy with the results even tho I was skeptical initially that I could pull off the sheet metal repairs. I had fun during the process and took a lot of pics. Please note that my welding skills are terrible and all the repairs were done with a crappy wire feed welder. However, I think the low power of the unit actually helped.
Both doors had some damage from the PO's roll cage. He basically just mashed the doors into the front part of his ill fitting piece of crap cage. Fortnuately they were completely free of rust and otherwise very straight. The following photos show how I repaired them with some pretty basic tools.
- Thread starter
- #73
Couple pics of the completed pieces welded on. Also, the door limiter pivot on the passenger side was broken off. The door limiters themselves were long gone. PO had bolted a short section of chain to each door to act as the limiter. That s*** had to go.
- Thread starter
- #74
Made a new pivot out of some 16 guage sheet metal. Only time will tell if the welds will hold up.
- Thread starter
- #75
Stripped, skimmed my repairs lightly with filler and sanded. As before I used wax and grease remover and a tack cloth to get as dust free a finish as possible. Primed them and laid down some rattle-can. They are starting to look really good now.
- Thread starter
- #76
I ordered all new weather stripping for the doors. Now, don't hate on me all you OEM purists but I did order the kit from CCOT. I think it was less than half the cost of OEM. So far it seems fine. I also ordered CCOT's pewter paint kit as I just couldnt find a rattle can color that I was happy with. I did break from the sray-can mentality for the door accessories by using a Harbor Freight HVLP gun that I had picked up for a cabinet project a year before. I was pleasantly surprised by the results.
Edit: Gotta give a shout out to my man Splib for hooking me up with the door limiters...Thanks Man!
Here's a few pics of the repaired areas and a door fully reassembled.
Edit: Gotta give a shout out to my man Splib for hooking me up with the door limiters...Thanks Man!
Here's a few pics of the repaired areas and a door fully reassembled.
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- Thread starter
- #77
Finally a couple of them back on the rig. They need a little adjustment for proper fit but I am happy. I think the rig looks cool with full doors and no top.
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The truck looks amazing! I agree, leaving the doors on without the top looks better than doorless or tube doors IMO, like it's ready to tackle anything.
You did a great job on your cruiser.
Looking good, damn good!
(Shout received)
(Shout received)
