Builds My LC 80 thread. (1 Viewer)

[Dave 2000]

New shoes!

Well the 'TANQUE' was reshod with 4 new Toyo Open Country tyres today in the stock size of 275/70/16 at a cost of 672.00 euros ($917.00) for the set and the Cooper ST's were sent to tyre heaven having served me and the PO with good service, I had a good look inside each of them and none showed any sign of repairs so that has to be good.

I wanted to go for another set of B F Goodrich A/T's as per my sadly missed Discovery but there was none in Spain or neighbouring France, the Toyo's were my second choice but it seems there may be little to choose between them? I am going by other contributors on this and other forums and it was the positive comments that made the decision for me. I seem to remember having a car or using a 4x4 with these tyres fitted and cannot recall any issues so it was a done deal, the mileage is 198,000 odd so I will see how they wear.

The other alternative was Kumho's but I have seen the sidewalls fall apart on more that one ocassion when used in the 'campo' so they were ruled out.

I am trying to get the car ready for import registration in Spain but cannot get hold of the correct LHD headlamps so it is a pain in the a*se at the moment, if there are any Spanish forum members reading this that are in the Murcia region then would you mind meeting up behind the test station and lending me your lights for an hour, I would make it worth your while?

And while I am at it, are there any spanish 80's fitted with the 'angel eye' or 'halo' lamps that have manged to get through the ITV?

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

well this afternoon saw the https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/64252-93-97-coolant-temperature-gauge-modification.html done and testing will be started tommorow morning but all looks ok so far. This month will see the cruiser hit 200,000 miles so I will have covered around 19,000 miles in my first year of ownership, and of course the problems have been............er.....hum...well er there has not been any

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Just an update in case anyone was wondering, the gauge mod works great, you will find my post on this excellent thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/64252-93-97-coolant-temperature-gauge-modification.html

I have added the actual gauge part numbers in case that helps you to decide not IF you are going to do the mod but WHEN as it is that good!

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Landmark

Well there we have it 200,000 miles and still going strong! Having now owned the car over a year I am now starting the import process, a pair of right dipping headlamps are on their way from Germany and I need to do some other minor stuff for the engineer who will be looking the car over (a mega version of the yearly inspection) and fingers crossed. I am now looking for a couple of LHD headlamps that have the electric adjustment a my RHD units will not swap on to the new lamps, if you know of any at a sensible price please let me know and perhaps we can have a deal? The plan is to use the glasses from my 'E' marked lamps and graft them on to the USA LHD housings once it passes inspection.

regards

Dave

 

[93Chewbacca]

Just a little post for Mshelby because he likes to be reminded about my HDJ80, since the tank repair my diesel has just returned 27.80 MPG

Thats mixed driving, I really must try to slow down a little and see if I can hit the 30 mark.......you know......just for fun

I might consider giving it a tune up later in the year that might help these terrible consumption figures

regards

Dave

I want a diesel!

Nice rig by the way

 

[Dave 2000]

I want a diesel!

Your first in line after mShelby! Of course ther are other jealous people looking on but they just cannot muster up the courage to admit to it.

Nice rig by the way

Thank you, I must say it is easy to work on although having said that I have not done much to it. No electronics, manual, locked.....I mean what more can a man want? Oh yes thats right I'm down to Toyota tommorow to see if I can get my CDL switch, when I did the temp gauge mod last week I pulled the plug through so it is ready


regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

More progress

Well the CDL switch is in along with the 7 pin mod, one more to cross off the list in post #1

One thing I would like to know is who told the Japanese that centre is spelt CENTER!!


EDIT: Oh oh, mods could you have a look at my threads please? Some have lost the ability to be 'edited', whilst not to worried about all of them this one has my 'to do' list on post #1, could you look into it for me please?

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Quick update, this week I fitted my new headlights which dip to the right for Spanish roads, removed the rear seats as I want to register it as a 'five seater', a new number plate bulb and then off to the testing staion to complete the import process, but it seems I am missing another piece of paper......again so the test cannot continue!

RED TAPE AND MORE RED TAPE....BUREAUCRACY DON'T START ME OFF!!

Calm down Dave, calm down........right I'm ok now.....ish, I will have to return next week and try again.

So without further ado I decided over the weekend to fit new rear brake pads and discs along with a strip/clean adjust the handbrake.

Unfortunately this did not go as straightforward as you would expect. The dismantling and assembly process was fine but upon test driving the car and turning left I was greeted with a nice grinding/rubbing noise from the right hand side.

I stripped down that side again and found rubbing marks on the brake back plate where it enters the slot in the back of the disc, this is designed to keep dirt and stones ect from getting inside the handbrake mechanism. The back plate was not distorted in any way so I inspected the slot in the rear of the disc, and sure enough there was some casting flash that had not been cleaned out properly, a quick touch with the 'dremel' and all was clean. I reassembled and test drove all perfect.

I then decided to investigate the low oil pressure reading and proceeded to fit my master gauge in place of the Toyota sender. Yeh right, what should have been a 30 minute job found the sender unit so tight I was worried it might break off, and as I was house sitting and in quite a remote place and having transport here is essential I gave up and moved that job 'to another day'.

Other than that 'she' continues to run great,

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Again I missed changing the oil at the sub 5000 mark with 202,165 showing! Yesterday I picked up a little van to run around in so the mileage v time should now go down. Well today the oil has been changed and again using the OE oil filter, whilst in there I put in an OE air filter which TBH looks exactly like every pattern version I have ever seen. I will wash out the old one and keep it as a trail spare, tommorow I will again try and remove the stubborn oil presure gauge sender unit and put in a 'real' oil pressure gauge to see if the OE version is telling lies. Also as we 'speak' the 12v starter I have been looking for is in transit, I fell lucky and have managed to get one for what is pretty much peanuts. Now I can convert from 24v starting to 12v, if all goes well this is set to be done during the 1st week of July, this will allow me to strip, clean, inspect and paint before putting in new contacts. Of course the 24v starter change over relay and wiring will have to be pulled out but I really am looking forward to it and will make time for pics.

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Another oil pressure sender telling lies

Well I am a happy bunny this morning! I finally removed the oil pressure sender and fitted a master oil pressure gauge (decent quality liquid filled ect) and stinking hot I have 22 psi @ idle (600 rpm) and 64 psi @ 3000 rpm.

This bodes well as the factory WSM puts the figures @ 4.3 psi and 36 psi respectively, I recall there was a thread on MUD about adjusting the sender unit? As mine has no leaks ect I plan to dismantle and adjust, I do not want to fit another oil pressure gauge as the OE indication that there is pressure is sufficient although I will be fitting a low oil pressure light and buzzer.....you know....just in case.

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

OK update, the oil pressure sensor was adjusted to reflect more accurately what was happening inside the engine. Next the starter that turned up is a pile of rubbish and the identifying label is missing I am unsure if it is a 12v or not and to add insult to injury the inside was minging Over the coming weekend I intend to try a strip, clean and tidy up to see if I can get it going, one consolation is the seller refunded my money after I sent him the link to the video I put up on youtube so that is not too bad. I have an old 24v version and will see if I can get one good from two. Next the import process, tommorow see's me visiting the testing station again, at the last visit I need too remove the towbar so I simply removed the two bolts holding the 'ball' part and that was considered ok, when I returned with another piece of paper I was told by a different engineer the entire towbar has to be removed And believe it or not ANOTHER piece of paper was needed!


Paper arrived today...............want to wish me luck?

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

OH YES!! 'Tanque' has entered the matriculation process by passing the mega inspection, the engineer was very thorough and did not miss a thing, I thought it a bit much though when he got out the protractor to measure the angle that the washers hit the windscreen

Anyway it is done and dusted, just have to pay some small import duties and that will have completed the process, I am chuffed as hell!

Now I am going to spend the weekend looking at the 12v conversion for the starter motor.

I am up in the mountains for the weekend, the weather is beautiful what more could a guy want?

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Well today saw the 12v starter mod carried out. It was not as straightforward as I thought it would be. I had decided to use the later 12v (3kw) starter from the HDJ100 UK spec Land Cruiser. I figured that Toyota over speced the 24v starter in the diesel cars in the first place using a 4.5 kw unit. I wanted to not only get rid of the changeover solenoid which switches the 12v from the two batteries into series giving 24v at the starter but also use the now redundant space for the fridge/inverter/winch battery.

So to the job in hand, the first obvious difference is the starter gear on the 24v version has 12 teeth, and the later 12v starter only 11. I thought a simple changeover would be on the cards, no such luck! The bigger gear would not fit into the recess at the front of the starter, this was ground out using a dremel tool, it is only 2mm wider and 6mm deep but still took quite awhile and I wanted to make it neat and tidy. The next problem is the front bearing behind the starter gear is the 'stop' to prevent the gear moving back into the housing too far, the 12 tooth gear also has a spacer on the rear which had to be cut off.

Whilst in there I fitted new contacts and cleaned the armature and brush ring ect, regreased and all was put back into the car. The wiring was a very simple affair, I simply removed the changeover solenoid and moved the main cables to the battery and earths. The changeover solenoid is also responsible for powering the starter solenoid as the batteries come into series.

First results are promising the car will start on just one battery but I have paralleled the two to double the amperage, the only negative thing at the moment is as the starter disengages I can hear a 'ding' as the starter gear is catching the edge of the flywheel, tommorow I will remove and recheck the throw out which can be adjusted if need be.

All in all a good days work, cross that of the list which I will update and repost when I get five minutes because the 'edit' function is no longer available on that post.

I have been told none of the above mods are needed if you can find the proper 12 tooth 12v starter normally found in Australian spec 12v to save any hassle. I would not advise someone who is not mechanic savvy to do this mod because there is one particular shortcoming, if your starter fails you cannot simply buy another and bolt it in, you would need to swap in your front housing and drive gear, of course if you managed to get the oz spec then fine but would you be able to get one off the shelf in the UK/USA/Morocco ect. Another point is my car is manual so a quick push and I am on the way, not so in an auto.

Feel free to PM me if you need any help with this worthwhile (to me) mod, the camera did not want to play ball but TBH it was not that hard.
regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Update, the 'ding' I could hear was the plunger being a little on the long side, 3mm removed with the dremel now allowed the starter gear to retract cleanly. Now like all mods I will need to use the car for a while to ensure all is well. I think a period of about a month should be enough, I will remove the starter and check for any damage caused by excessive throw out or binding. If all is well I will check again a further 4/5 weeks down ths line just to confirm all is well.


regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

OK update time. Oil and filter changed today 206,798 miles so I have brought forward this change a little early in an effort to get back to a 'clean' engine. The A/C started to struggle last week when the temps were 40+ so took it to the workshop and had the system checked over, the pressure was low and after looking around with the UV torch we found a leak. Typical it was the pipe that connected to the dryer behind the front bumper and run up through the L/H battery tray and along the inner wing. Toyota ordered up the part, the pictures on the dealers PC showed two different pipes one was 87.00 euros and the other a whopping 240.00 euros and yet the pretty much looked the same? I took a chance and went for the cheaper part, a week later and it turned up and there is just the one difference to my pipe, the pressure sensor position has been swapped with the sight glass position why the price difference I do not know? Now, the new batteries I have planned when combined they will take up all of the battery tray area and the sensor had worried me a little as it projected into the battery area, the new pipe now moves the sensor behind the headlight taking away that concern so a good result, tommorow will see the car back in the A/C shop for a re-gas, fingers crossed.

Other than that the car is running well, the recent removal of the 24v starter and replacing with a 12v unit has proved a success so far. It was a pure coincidence when a friends Vauxhall battery went dead due to an alternator failure, I simply lent him one of my batteries so he could start his car and drive around for a day or two untill his new unit could arrive, I of course just run around with the one battery. Talking about alternators, my 150 amp unit has arrived from the states and the split charger is on the way as we 'speak', now I am looking for a decent price for a set of four Yellow top Optima's which may be difficult here in Spain, my nearest dealer is on the Canary Islands but have little confidence that they will prove to be competitive with the UK sellers, I have emailed them for a price and I may also get a price from the UK and find someone who is driving here to bring the batteries with them. I mentioned in my last post I had purchased a little van, it still sits in the garage waiting for a clutch but I love using the LC so much I have not worried too much about alternative transport, the car is brilliant!

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Further update, the A/C has been regassed and is working great however, the 'AUTO' function is either full on or off with nothing in between, I have a unit coming from the UK so once fitted I will gain control over the A/C again.

Either way it is soooo nice and coooool

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

So....the new heater/AC panel arrived and all was well for about a week although the action still seems to be slow. The AC has again lost pressure so the usual dye and ultra violet torch and glasses showed what appeared to be a serious leak along one of the bulkhead pipes! It turns out that the pipe has become porous and the gas is seeping through the metal .

Now something else has broke! One of the rubber exhaust mounts and failed, well at the tremendous cost of about 7 euros (10 of your $) I decided to replace the three....wow no expense spared here guys . So the AC pipe and the mounts have been ordered hopefully to arrive next week, other than that the 80 still continues to provide reliable daily transport.

The split charger is here now and I am about to order the battery monitor from NL, still no luck with the batteries so I will hang on to the money for the moment as there may be a trip to Morroco on the horizon .

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

So the Landcruiser failed to start this evening (for the first time)and of course it was raining in this area of Spain for the first time in about three months! So what led up to this unhappy event. Well the A/C pipe arrived yesterday along with the three exhaust rubber mounts I mentioned in my last post, whilst out and about I picked up some 'nylocs' as well. So today I decided to get with the program and stop the damn exhaust rattling. Just before I started an elderly neighbour had just installed his just as elderly disabled wife into their Ford Escort, the 'click click' signalled his battery was flat. I did my usual trick of loaning out one of the 80's batteries (the second time in under two months) so he could go shopping and I would fit him a new battery later, my conversion to 12v starting has it's advantages. So back to my exhaust, first take note BUY ALL THREE MOUNTS fortunately I did. I had only the one fail which was right at the front of the exhaust, now most exhausts are 'hung' from the rubber mounts, the 80 design is different it 'sits' on rubbers, this is a good idea as failure of the rubber will not result in the exhaust falling to the floor just the annoying racket as it bangs on the chassis mount. The problem with this idea though is when you try to lift the exhaust to get the new mount in there is no clearance, you will have to loosen the next mount along to allow you some 'lift' to get the new mount in place. Of course this resulted in the studs breaking off the old mounts as they were rusted, this was no problem for me as I was replacing them anyway but for those who are not living next door to a 24 hour Toyota agent this could prove rather frustrating! Along to the the rearmost mount (all three are identical) I found someone had decided that a blob of weld was better than a new nut, I have to assume the thread was damaged or they were replacing another mount further along the pipework? Toyota was good enough to have the chassis mount bolt on so it was a doddle to remove and chisel the weld off. The new mount went straight in although the nuts are a little awkward to get to. As the car was in the air I also gave the propshaft nipples a pump or two of grease. Now during this time I had started the car about 6 times, moving it onto ramps ect and checking for rattles, it was on the 6th attempt to start that I noticed the engine cranked very slowly but did catch. Later in the day my battery was retrieved from the neighbour after fitting his car with a new battery and after fitting back into the 80 I started and check the alternator and all was well. Having got cleaned up I went to the hospital to check up on a friend, I stopped on the way to get some sweets ect for her. The car started fine and I got to the hospital just as it started to rain. When I came out about an hour and a half later 'click' and what appeared as no battery power and it was p*ssing down!!

I rolled the car forward a couple of yards and jumped in and bump started the engine (don't you just love a manual transmission ) on the way home and still rolling I switched off the engine and restarted on the key no problem, I can only assume that one of the batteries has failed and it pulled the other one down? The car is parked outside at the moment with both batteries disconnected, in the morning I will load test the pair and see what is happening. The annoying thing is I want to replace the batteries with a couple of mega Optima's ect but cannot find them locally, shipping them is silly money so it seems I will have to buy a couple of 'mickey mouse' batteries to keep me on the road for the time being .

Of course the idea of converting to 12v was so I would have a spare battery to jump from but at the moment they are still parallel, by having a split charger, of course I have most of the gear and have arranged to have the car off the road from the 14th of next month for a few days to get the mods done, it seems the batteries will not wait that long, the new A/C pipe can go in when I get around to it however, the exhaust does not rattle any more

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Well both batteries load tested ok and I used the car most of the day and start/stopped about 10/12 times and it started every time?

This is more annoying than failing altogether, tommorow I will check the connections to the starter/earths ect. In the meantime I will order another set of contacts Monday am from Toyota just in case and go from there. I have been meaning to pull the starter to have a look for any detrimental wear ect so this has just forced the time to now instead of my revamp of the wiring/split charger/ heavier cables ect during the middle of October, if I don't I will not feel I can trust the car as the conversion has only been done a little over three months now, I will update later in the week.


regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Well the update as promised, all earths/connection/ ect are intact and clean, I have ordered a new set of contacts/plunger and am waiting for them to arrive, it's eight days since the non start event and the starter has yet to fail again

I ordered them at the same time as a new set of wheel studs and nuts, I was returning from an airport run and noticed a rumble which got worse as I slowed down, I pulled into a petrol station and checked all around under the car and nothing obvious. Earlier in the journey I had felt a slight vibration when increasing speed from about 60 mph to 70, I put the vibe down to a propshaft UJ and dismissed it for attention later in the week. Eventually I tracked it down to five wheel nuts on the left rear wheel that were loose, the sixth nut was missing and the stud was sheared .

Now the wheels have not been touched since the tyres were replaced a few months back and I watched the guy go around with the torque wrench so WTF? Anyway I tightened the remaining nuts checked the other wheels which were all good and continued on my journey, I will replace all six nuts AND studs as a precaution.

The National Luna battery monitor has arrived and that will be fitted in the centre console to the right of the gearstick when all the other 'stuff' gets fitted during the middle of October.

Whilst I doubt I will ever sell the car if I do I hope the new owner gets to read this thread, it's better than any service history

regards

Dave