Mike did your carb run at that angle? if it did I would be pumped, lotsa skinny to keep her poping is my experience
metal tech fenders - battery? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter treerootCO
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TxCruzr
Wait, this ain't Texas...
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2003
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- Sierra Vista, Arizonahhhh
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Those worked 
Now to rob a bank and order a set :hillbilly
Now to rob a bank and order a set :hillbilly
treerootCO
Where are my keys?!
- Thread starter
- #43
I chickened out when the front end unloaded 
Yep, the carb kept the engine running but not well. Shortly after, Joe (CTS) had his son take the same line with his 40. I didn't see it but I was told he was sprung over on 36s and they had a few guys on a strap holding his front end down.
Yep, the carb kept the engine running but not well. Shortly after, Joe (CTS) had his son take the same line with his 40. I didn't see it but I was told he was sprung over on 36s and they had a few guys on a strap holding his front end down.
Fenders look awesome man.
What size lift and tires are you running?
Thanks,
Sebo4wd
What size lift and tires are you running?
Thanks,
Sebo4wd
bustanutley said:
my aisin has no problem run on that kind of an angle...
sebo4wd said:
37's mtrs
4" skyjackers softrides, with a saggy ass 
bustanutley said:with a saggy ass
The Cruiser or Mike??? and how exactly do you know it's saggy?
treerootCO
Where are my keys?!
- Thread starter
- #49
That's just nasty, I mean why, why would springs settle so much
TJ, I have some turn signals for you
Before after type shots...
TJ, I have some turn signals for you
Before after type shots...
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treerootCO
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- Thread starter
- #50
before and after...
treerootCO
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- Thread starter
- #51
Last one. I didn't climb up on the roof for a before shot. You can see how I swept the front corners a little bit.
Last edited:
nice job welding the skins mike!
those came out very nice.....the 9" of clearance is amazing!
those came out very nice.....the 9" of clearance is amazing!
pbgbottle
Forum Lifer
the before and after shot is amazing those fenders look great !
If you want your turn signals back I used the pre 68 running lights that you see on the older bezels. I used Mark's trailer light switch to trick them into being a running light and a turn signal. I mounted them exactly where it should be on the older style using a 2" or 3" hole saw. Worked out pretty good.
those came out Great Treeroot!
That Far Left Line is a BIATCH..
That Far Left Line is a BIATCH..
treerootCO
Where are my keys?!
- Thread starter
- #57
The biggest mistake I made was not watching the outside angle of the long bar. It wasn't the end of the world type stuff but it made it a little harder than it could have been.
If you start by leveling the vehicle front to back and left to right you can set everything at 0 or 90 degrees. The supports can be tacked and notched to the frame plates. Make them straight up and down, left to right, and level on top. Notch them so the fenders will be the same width. If you decide to make the bend around the battery tray, your passenger side fender will be way too wide unless you shorten it. Save the tube, you might need to extend the down part to compensate for the bend. Once that is all figured, add the plates to the bib and the lazer cut brackets to the firewall part. Once you get the stub piece notched and tacked to the firewall bracket, you can tack in the long piece. That is where I almost had it but missed one thing. As you slide the long tube in the notch of the support bracket and the firewall stub notch the top tube should be level. I made it level, made sure the skin would clear the front of the tub, made it 90 parellel with the rear of the tub, and tacked it in. I failed to check the rotation of the tube itself. Picture adding the skins on later. They are square so the outside of the tube needs to be straight as well. If you rotate the tube slightly in or out, the bend that makes the rear of the fenders changes. It need to be as straight as possible so that the skins will fit without being cut.
Clear as mud?
If you start by leveling the vehicle front to back and left to right you can set everything at 0 or 90 degrees. The supports can be tacked and notched to the frame plates. Make them straight up and down, left to right, and level on top. Notch them so the fenders will be the same width. If you decide to make the bend around the battery tray, your passenger side fender will be way too wide unless you shorten it. Save the tube, you might need to extend the down part to compensate for the bend. Once that is all figured, add the plates to the bib and the lazer cut brackets to the firewall part. Once you get the stub piece notched and tacked to the firewall bracket, you can tack in the long piece. That is where I almost had it but missed one thing. As you slide the long tube in the notch of the support bracket and the firewall stub notch the top tube should be level. I made it level, made sure the skin would clear the front of the tub, made it 90 parellel with the rear of the tub, and tacked it in. I failed to check the rotation of the tube itself. Picture adding the skins on later. They are square so the outside of the tube needs to be straight as well. If you rotate the tube slightly in or out, the bend that makes the rear of the fenders changes. It need to be as straight as possible so that the skins will fit without being cut.
Clear as mud?
Full_Throttle
1985 BJ73 RHD
Well hurry up and post a walk-through!!! I will be doing this VERY soon
You rock man!! They look most execellent! (best Mr. Burns voice)
You rock man!! They look most execellent! (best Mr. Burns voice)
huh?treerootCO said:The biggest mistake I made was not watching the outside angle of the long bar. It wasn't the end of the world type stuff but it made it a little harder than it could have been.
If you start by leveling the vehicle front to back and left to right you can set everything at 0 or 90 degrees. The supports can be tacked and notched to the frame plates. Make them straight up and down, left to right, and level on top. Notch them so the fenders will be the same width. If you decide to make the bend around the battery tray, your passenger side fender will be way too wide unless you shorten it. Save the tube, you might need to extend the down part to compensate for the bend. Once that is all figured, add the plates to the bib and the lazer cut brackets to the firewall part. Once you get the stub piece notched and tacked to the firewall bracket, you can tack in the long piece. That is where I almost had it but missed one thing. As you slide the long tube in the notch of the support bracket and the firewall stub notch the top tube should be level. I made it level, made sure the skin would clear the front of the tub, made it 90 parellel with the rear of the tub, and tacked it in. I failed to check the rotation of the tube itself. Picture adding the skins on later. They are square so the outside of the tube needs to be straight as well. If you rotate the tube slightly in or out, the bend that makes the rear of the fenders changes. It need to be as straight as possible so that the skins will fit without being cut.
Clear as mud?
treerootCO
Where are my keys?!
- Thread starter
- #60
I had welded the aprons to the fender to make the Chinaman's run but that has been changed. Here is a pic of the brackets on there now. The extra bend is so I can run a plastic trim piece on the cut edge. I don't have a pic of them mounted at the moment but the two hole side is plug welded to the apron.
