M101A3 for Moonshine (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter GLTHFJ60
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- #22
That's not a bad idea, but it does not look to be easily removable.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Who knew the Army had something similar?
http://m.govliquidation.com/?cmd=auction&item=view&auctionId=7733454
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- #24
I found those on steel soldiers. They look pretty sweet! I can't find any for sale without the trailer. Even still, I'm not sure how I'd build a camper into that that's easily removable.
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- #25
Turns out that the S250 shelters are too small for me to sleep in comfortably, but I still really like the idea of a slide-in for easy removal from the trailer. Drew this up in Google Sketchup today. I'm liking it! Shouldn't be too expensive to make out of wood.
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- #26
This time with real dimensions. I think this is going to happen. I'm liking this idea more. 72" tall door framed out.
Going to be heavy.
I'd lose the front window...or at least cover it.
Too much potential for leakage and/or breakage.
If you use the jacks they use on slide in truck campers....you could fill in the front section for batteries, storage, etc.
Looks great!
Too much potential for leakage and/or breakage.
If you use the jacks they use on slide in truck campers....you could fill in the front section for batteries, storage, etc.
Looks great!
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- #29
Yeah, that's the bummer.
We'll see if this actually comes to fruition. This year I'm going to keep researching and planning, then maybe this fall I'll embark on this project.
Thanks guys
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- #30
could you build a rigid light weight frame and find some old RV fibreglass walls to use to save weight? RV trailers that have been in accidents still often have a good panel or two that RV shops would give you for a cheap price I'm sure? just a matter of putting a trim on the corners that will seal it well.
ntsqd
technerd
If you frame it with 1X1's (try to avoid using metal fasteners) then you can use 1" thick hard insulation in the voids between the skin and the liner. I'd bond the skin and liner pieces on, and then fiberglass the outside using pigment in the resin.
Use 'T' steel at each corner and get some 'normal' camper jacks (mech. or hyd, your pocket-book's choice) to attach to part of the 'T' not nested against the walls of the enclosure. I'd orient the flying flanges fore & aft rather than left/right. Make the jacks easy to R&R because you don't want them on while traveling down even a dirt road. You will snag them on something. Mr Murphy says so.
After having used two of those to lift an Alaskan into a pick-up I'll be happy to never have to use their like again.
Use 'T' steel at each corner and get some 'normal' camper jacks (mech. or hyd, your pocket-book's choice) to attach to part of the 'T' not nested against the walls of the enclosure. I'd orient the flying flanges fore & aft rather than left/right. Make the jacks easy to R&R because you don't want them on while traveling down even a dirt road. You will snag them on something. Mr Murphy says so.
SIP panels for the walls/roof? Build on EP now...OP is using homebrew SIP panels. Sing panels might be another ready made SIP/honeycomb material to consider...lightweight and affordable.
I'm in the same boat...er trailer. I now want a small hardsided camp trailer; but its gotta be light in weight...thinking either totally homebrew build using SIP...or if I can find a real deal on a fix'r upper 13' Casita...no fabric to blow in the wind and easy to keep warm when the mercury drops
I'm in the same boat...er trailer
. I now want a small hardsided camp trailer; but its gotta be light in weight...thinking either totally homebrew build using SIP...or if I can find a real deal on a fix'r upper 13' Casita...no fabric to blow in the wind and easy to keep warm when the mercury drops
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- #34
You guys are on the same page as me. Thin wall tubing for the steel frame would be lightweight and allow for 1" rigid foam insulation between the supports. I wanted it to be steel partially to help practice with my fab skills, but also because it would require less overall support than a comparable wood frame would (I think) and therefore maintain equal or less weight.
I looked into honeycomb for the walls but it looks to be prohibitively expensive. Any inexpensive sources for that stuff?
What is SIP? Any info?
I looked into honeycomb for the walls but it looks to be prohibitively expensive. Any inexpensive sources for that stuff?
What is SIP? Any info?
Sing panels are relatively affordable; even more so if you build them yourself*. However shipping coast to coast might alter the value...as Sing is in Oakland CA (not sure if they have a more eastern US distribution center). More here: http://singcore.com/product/sing-panels
Although I wouldn't build a trailer/camper out of it...I'm experimenting with some aluminum honeycomb panels for a simple camp table. 3/4" thick, double aluminum skin over aluminum honeycomb, 2'x4' and weighs less than 10lbs...probably 5lbs. And with me standing in the middle when supported at either end I get less than 1/2" deflection...not bad for being only 3/4" thick and two-ten atop.
SIP = Structural Insulated Panels. IMHO one of if not the best building materials/methods...been around for a couple decades or more now. And zero condensation issues to mitigate compared to metal frame...
Here's the guy's build thread for his own* SIP fabbed trailer build: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/124173-Kimberley-Inspired-Camper-Build
Although I wouldn't build a trailer/camper out of it...I'm experimenting with some aluminum honeycomb panels for a simple camp table. 3/4" thick, double aluminum skin over aluminum honeycomb, 2'x4' and weighs less than 10lbs...probably 5lbs. And with me standing in the middle when supported at either end I get less than 1/2" deflection...not bad for being only 3/4" thick and two-ten atop.
SIP = Structural Insulated Panels. IMHO one of if not the best building materials/methods...been around for a couple decades or more now. And zero condensation issues to mitigate compared to metal frame...
Here's the guy's build thread for his own* SIP fabbed trailer build: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/124173-Kimberley-Inspired-Camper-Build
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- #36
That is slick as heck! I could see myself making the structure out of tube steel, then instead of middle supports, use SIP that I've built myself.
Thanks for the ideas!
ntsqd
technerd
Problem with steel, and I get why you want to use it, is that it is a "cold path" that flows interior heat thru the wall to the outside. You will have condensation on the inside that will perfectly outline where the tubes are. I see this in our pop-top camper with it's aluminum tube frame construction. It's how I found where to drill the roof to hit structure to mount the solar panel.
Check out the XP Campers and how they're built. Marc does a fantastic job with the whole thing and sets a high water mark for the whole industry.
Check out the XP Campers and how they're built. Marc does a fantastic job with the whole thing and sets a high water mark for the whole industry.
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- #38
With the Slide-in design, do you think it would be strong enough if I made just the lower portion out of steel then everything else out of SIP? I was thinking steel frame so that it would endure the lifts out of the trailer bed.
I see lots of camper trailers with steel frame, then SIP walls and roofs, with the difference being that the trailer is never lifted, only towed. Strength and long-term durability are my two primary concerns, considering that this camper will live in the trailer, then by itself outside so that the trailer cab serve utility duty.
Still researching, and criticism is always welcome!
I see lots of camper trailers with steel frame, then SIP walls and roofs, with the difference being that the trailer is never lifted, only towed. Strength and long-term durability are my two primary concerns, considering that this camper will live in the trailer, then by itself outside so that the trailer cab serve utility duty.
Still researching, and criticism is always welcome!
ntsqd
technerd
Seems like that could work, but I wonder if the difference in stiffness of the two construction techniques might cause trouble long term? I'd be more inclined to pick a method and use it for the whole thing. If you went with SIP then you could build it with steel or aluminum 'skids' on the bottom and bottom corners to take the loading/unloading wear & tear.
Somewhere on the Wander the West forum there is a guy who built a pop-top camper using the SIP method. There may be a build thread, dunno.
If determined to use a tubular steel frame what I would suggest is to use 1/2 x 1/2 and offset them so that there is no "cold path" except where absolutely necessary (door & window frames etc.). Means using 1/2" insulation or a mixture of 1/2" & 1"
Somewhere on the Wander the West forum there is a guy who built a pop-top camper using the SIP method. There may be a build thread, dunno.
If determined to use a tubular steel frame what I would suggest is to use 1/2 x 1/2 and offset them so that there is no "cold path" except where absolutely necessary (door & window frames etc.). Means using 1/2" insulation or a mixture of 1/2" & 1"
Quite a few related build threads on EP, et al...but here's one that is a slide-in from SIP: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/94313-Home-Built-camper-for-Tacoma
I like the idea of bolstering the bottom/corners with plate aluminum or steel per ntsqd. A metal frame seems redundant with SIP...especially with 1.5-2" thick SIP. Having said that I'd have a SE/ME give it a once over before moving forward.
I like the idea of bolstering the bottom/corners with plate aluminum or steel per ntsqd. A metal frame seems redundant with SIP...especially with 1.5-2" thick SIP. Having said that I'd have a SE/ME give it a once over before moving forward.
