Just wrapping up a knuckle rebuild on the passenger side, and running into some issues on the reassembly steps. I'm putting the hub back on to the axle and then working on the bearing pre load/nut tightening steps. When I get that hub on it spins relatively well, though maybe a little tighter than I'd expect. But when I put on that first adjusting nut to do the whole tighten to 45 ft lbs, spin, loosen etc is when I run into an issue. Once that nut it tightened up to that first 45 ft lbs, the hub doesn't spin at all. Like completely stuck, tightened down. I can then loosen the nut and take it off but then to remove the hub I have to hit it with a mallet to knock it off the snout, and still won't turn. I've had this thing on and off 100 times it seems like trying to figure out what the issue is or where I went wrong. Has anybody come across anything like this before or have any ideas on what the issue could be? I know the bearings are packed properly and roll well, but for some reason once the hub is actually on it doesn't seem to want to spin. Especially once that first nut is tightened. Thank you for all the help!!
Knuckle rebuild issue (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter tyjova
- Start date
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first off 45 pounds is way too tight for the first nut 25-30 pounds, and then the locknut should be tightened to 45 pounds.
If you replaced the races, I would make sure they’re all seated properly
If you replaced the races, I would make sure they’re all seated properly
Even at 45 ft/lbs the hub should still rotate. I've put way more than that on it for a few rotations to get things seated correctly when reinstalling the hub.
Did you put the races/bearings in the right way or are they in backwards? / \ or \ /?
Is the rear hub seal seated correctly? The brass colored outer should be flush with the hub lip.
- Thread starter
- #4
Everything fit together and spun well on the hub so I could have sworn it was all in properly but the only thing I can think of is something backwards like you said since something is obviously not correct. I was hoping to not have to mess up the inner seal to double check the rear bearing but they are cheap enough I'll just tear it apart now again to double check
I agree that likely the bearing may be inverted, each time I have pulled off the hub and mounted it has never had an issue turning when seating the bearing at 45lbs. In fact the the ability to spin the wheel helps confirm that the bearing is seated correctly. If the bearing was inverted it's possible that the cage could be damage so be sure to check it out before reinstalling.
I seat the bearing around 45 then back off and hand tighten, then retorque to about 20-25, then add the second nut and torque to spec.
What brand of bearings are you using?
There have been a few documented cases of other brands having a different cut on the inside shoulder of the bearing that would not properly seat the bearing and it would bind.
There have been a few documented cases of other brands having a different cut on the inside shoulder of the bearing that would not properly seat the bearing and it would bind.
IMO if the anything was in backwards, you would know it right away as the hub would not seat down to its proper place
If you want to save that inner seal, remove both locking nuts and the washer, pull the outer bearing put the washer and the nut back on and pull on the hub hard the seal will pop off off the back undamaged.
If you want to save that inner seal, remove both locking nuts and the washer, pull the outer bearing put the washer and the nut back on and pull on the hub hard the seal will pop off off the back undamaged.
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sounds like the first washer before the first nut or the lock washer between the nuts is missing or has it's tooth ripped off.
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- Thread starter
- #10
Sorry, was out of town for work and was just typing up a reply this morning!
After several days of double checking and having the hub on and off god knows how many times.....I'm still stuck. As it stands I've confirmed the races have the fatter sides pointed inwards so they line up properly with where you need to knock them off with a drift. The bearings then go in there >< with the bevels pointing inwards as well. I get the hub back on about 95% of the way and it rotates perfectly. But when I give it that final little push to get all the seals mated and seated is when it gets a little more snug to turn and even has a bit of a dragging noise. Then with the tightening of that first nut even to a pretty snug hand tight the hub just siezes up and wont turn at all, so something is still definitely messed up somewhere. I'll grab some more pictures later on, but here is what the spindle looks like. I'll put some grease on there but then when I take it back off it's at the back portion where it seems like it may be rubbing to the point where there is no grease there anymore. Though that could be just due to the seal lip sort of wiping it off as it gets pushed on there.
Long story short, still in the same spot as before. It's the Slee kit Koyo bearings so I'd assume those are fine.
That spindle seal looks torn and deformed on the left side. I wonder if it's folding in when you put the hub back on. It could just be the picture. Hard to tell.
Is this happening on the passenger side only? What grease are you using? I ask because what’s called out is red and some of us use black grease on everything.
The spindles can wear and cause problems as well and it’s not always glaringly obvious by visual inspection.
The spindles can wear and cause problems as well and it’s not always glaringly obvious by visual inspection.
Need to start eliminating thing. temporarily remove the seal that Jonheld speaks of, if you have the old bearing try them.
Following…..
This will be a job i will have to do, probably this summer when its 120F degrees in my garage.
This will be a job i will have to do, probably this summer when its 120F degrees in my garage.
- Thread starter
- #16
Good point, I'll double check. I'm pretty sure it's just the angle and the shadows but it wouldn't hurt to confirm.
Haven't even gotten to the driver side yet. What was supposed to be a nice Sunday afternoon project has of course dragged on for much longer
......I had a huge tub of standard wheel bearing grease that I used. I figured it would be good enough for my purposes, but if the red really makes a difference then obviously I'm still at a point to clean and re grease.That's probably my next step. I have put both the old and new inner bearing on the spindle by itself to check any clearance issues and they both push on there with the same sort of effort so no real difference there. Haven't put the old bearing fully into the hub and re installed
I agree I'm not sure if they can even be swapped with the difference in sizing within the races, but something definitely worth checking. I have a strong suspicion it's going to be something small and dumb like that but who knows!
yet though. With everything in the hub itself seemingly being fine it sure seems like it's something on the axle/spindle side of things causing the issue.
New bearing vs old spindle…..
If anything new bearing should slide on easier
I have a couple of questions for you. If you only torque the inner nut to 30, will it rotate? And then at 45, are you just trying to rotate the rotor by hand, or with some leverage like the wheel on the hub or a screw driver in the side of the rotor? Occassionally I've had to get a little more leverage to break in new bearings for a few rotations
Bearing and spindle measurements should be taken with the spindle being measured at multiple locations.
