Knuckle questions: before I re-assemble (1 Viewer)

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HemiAlex

Long live the 2F
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I've got some questions:

I'm apprehensive to use the existing shims for two reasons:

A) The bearings were very worn, and I'm worried the shims may be out of spec
B) I don't know if this truck has ever had the knuckles apart, so I'm apprehensive to say if they are the right combination
3) @cruiseroutfit enclosed new ones in my kit, why wouldn't I use them? It is a matter of putting a Micrometer to them to compare thicknesses?

Also, what are the reasons for or against disassembling the birfield completely?

I would feel better getting all the old grease out and repacking them but if I've got 90% new grease in the hub/axle assembly I don't feel so bad.

If everything else is in order and the last "wear" item is the bronze bushing for the axle, should I put a hold on this and see if I need to order one while I've got it apart?

Also, whats the best way to get the tubes of grease into the hub? A gloved hand or is there a faster and cleaner way to do this.

I'm not in a hurry....
 
What was the condition of the axle seal ?

The shims don't wear, but they may have been re-assembled before incorrectly and your axle my be off-center. You really need the SST to check it. If the axle seal (you're using the Marlin HD ones, as replacement, yes?) were worn off center, you prolly need to reset it. If not, I'd reuse the old shims in the exact config they were. But obviously, if you replace with the same thickness shims, then it's the same.

I did not disassemble the birfs when I did mine, only because I did not have the special clips, but I cleaned thoroughly and made sure I packed well with new grease.

I did not replace the bronze bush as it must be honed to tolerance once installed and the old one looked good.
 
The way that I got the grease into the birfs was I just used my zirk pump and placed it between the ball bearings in the cage and just pumped away until it started pushing out the other side. Switched up areas a couple times to make sure that all the old stuff pushed out.
 
I think the reason most dont diassemble the cage is the additional work but its really not any more difficult. You'll need a piece of pipe/pvc to separate the axle shaft from the birf, brass drift to tap the cage to get all the balls out, 2 new c clips to re-attach the shafts to the birfs and some zip-ties to compress the c-clip so it slides into the splined cage.

Even just separating the shaft from the birf is enough to clean all the old grease out, no "need" to fully disassemble the cage.

My wife has some bakery piping bags that i can dump a full tube of grease in and use that to administer the grease to the birf and inside the knuckle.
 
If you wheel a lot, and use 4WD lots you should disassemble, and repack the birfs...

I repack with hand (wear gloves)......
There is something about grabbing a big blob of grease and stuffing it into the axle housing...

Flame on.....

;)
 
I'm willing to separate the bifield and repack it without completely disassembling it. That's a good compromise.
 
When I had to replace my spindles with new OEMs which include new bronze bushings pressed in place...I could not feel any difference between the originals vs. the new spindles/bushing when I slid them over the drive axle.

Don't think it's much of a wear item. Also heard they are a beyotch to hammer out and in.

I'm in h-town if you have any questions.
 
Use these. Pack by hand.

image.jpeg
 
Ball is cleaned and inner axle seal is in. I've got all the small parts from this side ready to go in the parts washer tomorrow.

I bought extended brake lines and backing plate eliminator. I just need to figure out how much of the old rubber and steel lines stay.

image.jpeg
 
I hate replacing the inner axle clip on the birf, but I still disassemble it. I don't think you can get all the old grease out if you don't.
 
I'm willing to separate the bifield and repack it without completely disassembling it. That's a good compromise.

When you separate the axle shaft from the birfield the inner clip breaks off/apart and stays back in there behind the cage. If you go this route make sure you have all the pieces out. If you've gone that far I recommend you just pull it all apart, it's really not that much work especially compared to the entirety of the knuckle rebuild. You'll probably spend just as much if not more time trying to clean it without disassembling it than to take it apart and clean it with everything opened up.
 

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