Karma's KZJ78 (1 Viewer)

[Karmapolice]

Good on you for getting it field fixed!

What was the reason for the pre-purchase of the alternator? It seemed like you were working through AC items before this? Or did you just want a spare?

I had the batteries run flat when a door wasn't shut all the way by my kid and it wasn't topping the batteries back off after running it. So I assumed it was the alternator and went ahead and ordered one but I was able to fix it via tensioning the belts on the old alternator and bracket (was reading 13.5-13.7) after that and was fine. I didn't inspect the bracket well and possibly it was showing signs of issues but it tensioned the belts and everything was working so I thought it was good but had already ordered the spare alternator and decided to keep it as such which I am very glad I did!

The AC was the issue prior which was just a squeaky bearing on the AC clutch.

Thanks!

 

[Houser]

I had the same thing happen to me after tensioning my belts. I forgot to retighten the slider bolt and the tensioner bolt broke. The tensioner bolt is only meant to adjust the tension not to hold it.

 

[Karmapolice]

I had the same thing happen to me after tensioning my belts. I forgot to retighten the slider bolt and the tensioner bolt broke. The tensioner bolt is only meant to adjust the tension not to hold it.

The slider bolt was tight as I could get it, so I don't know if it was all just out of wack or what. In fact the slider is still attached as I couldn't get it to loosen but haven't messed with it more but it still spins freely (the slider not the bolt).

 

[Karmapolice]

Well late December I started having an issue with white smoke at start up and eventually losing coolant. Being the 1KZ-TE, I figured minimum a blown head gasket or worse a cracked head.

I had the car shipped to H&H in Charlotte after calling around, looking for some shops and seeing he was recommended here and by TLC at the end of January because I was otherwise engaged with work and could not coordinate it. CS & R Transport did the transport for me and was great to deal with, he also delivered my kids 4Runner we bought from AP Vintage in Statesville.
Once Dean and crew at H&H were able to look at the motor, they confirmed it was the head that had cracks, one major one and then all precombustion caps which is common but the one with coolant leaking in the combustion chamber was obviously not good lol.
I had already provided H&H with a new gasket, water pump, head bolts, timing belt, etc. Just not a head as I was sure it was a head-related issue. On a Thursday afternoon I called Kiwi Cylinder Heads in New Zeeland and ordered a complete 1KZ-TE head with the correct valves etc. and it was delivered by the following Monday.
I then ordered some new glow plugs and a valve cover from Part Soq as might as well replace it with a fresh one and no worn Toyota logo .
H&H got the work very quick after I dropped off the last bits and I am super happy with the work they did etc.
After I got it back, I added a new Fuel Filter assembly with a new heater etc. Otherwise, the next plans are a full exhaust I have a 3” dump pipe from KRAE and will build it from that, looking to have Henrys muffler do it since they are closer to me.

I also need to finish the installation of the EGT gauge as H&H installed an EGR delete kit for me that I got from Fit Garage with the sweet Auber gauge in green LED.
Super happy to have it back and be driving it every day again!

!

 

[Karmapolice]

 

[Karmapolice]

Finally got the EGT guage hooked up and mounted with help from my broski

 

[Bad Mojo]

Do you have any pictures of where you installed the probe?

Also do you mind sharing how you went about your wiring. I am in the collecting of parts stage of this project and I am just trying to see how others have gone about it.

 

[Karmapolice]

Do you have any pictures of where you installed the probe?

Also do you mind sharing how you went about your wiring. I am in the collecting of parts stage of this project and I am just trying to see how others have gone about it.

So I got an EGR delete kit with the gauge from Fit Garage (www.thefitgarage.com) and the probe goes through the blocking plate at the exhaust port for the EGR system.

The thermo wiring is just run in through the fire wall and up toward the stereo din and I spliced into the accesoriy power and ground for my stero for power for the gauge.

I just removed the trim and pulled out the radio and din mount and then drilled a hole for the wires in back of the din cubby and then took double sided tap on the bottom of the gauge to keep it in place.

 

[AirheadNut]

Do you have any pictures of where you installed the probe?

Also do you mind sharing how you went about your wiring. I am in the collecting of parts stage of this project and I am just trying to see how others have gone about it.

I can't remember, is yours a manual or automatic? If you've got an auto then there is a nice port in the firewall where the clutch cylinder would go, it is a great spot to run wiring. In my first LJ78 I pulled power from the clinometer light circuit, but you could easily tap into any of the IG power circuits in the dash or run a wire from the underhood aux power box. If you're using an Auber gauge they have pretty good instructions available on their website for wiring and programming the unit.

 

[Bad Mojo]

I can't remember, is yours a manual or automatic? If you've got an auto then there is a nice port in the firewall where the clutch cylinder would go, it is a great spot to run wiring. In my first LJ78 I pulled power from the clinometer light circuit, but you could easily tap into any of the IG power circuits in the dash or run a wire from the underhood aux power box. If you're using an Auber gauge they have pretty good instructions available on their website for wiring and programming the unit.

That truck is an automatic. I need to pop the hood, but I am pretty I know where you are talking about to pass power through. I like the idea of using the aux power box and power everything from that. Thanks for the recommendation.

@Karmapolice I noticed what I think is a fog light switch left of the defrost switch is that correct? Our truck is missing whatever lived their previously.

 

[Karmapolice]

That truck is an automatic. I need to pop the hood, but I am pretty I know where you are talking about to pass power through. I like the idea of using the aux power box and power everything from that. Thanks for the recommendation.

@Karmapolice I noticed what I think is a fog light switch left of the defrost switch is that correct? Our truck is missing whatever lived their previously.

It is a Fog Light switch, mine had the bar with the fog lights from the factory but it was removed.