I bought a 1966 (6/65) FJ40L 'parts car' to restore (1 Viewer)

[INNOV8S]

I was able to get it to START today with the help of a friend, Bill! Hats off to Bill for wanting to come over and help me out for 3-1/2 hours til we got it to fire up! Yippee! It only took 10 months from the time that I picked it up in Oct. '15. He put his Mustang skills to work on the FJ. Here is what we found.... 1) Back when I replaced, points, plugs, wires, condenser, I was struggling to get the condenser in and managed to forget to connect the wire to the points, oops 2) We found that the top arm of the lifter in the carb. was bent. 3) I had the disto cap rotated 180 degrees, oops again - - the index tab on the clip was bent, and needed bending back. Vavoom it fired up and promptly filled the garage with smoke!!

After it started I couldnt stop the engine. I turned the ignition off, but it keep running I pushed in the choke and it shut down. Alternator was not connected. Any thoughts why it wouldn't kill the engine after turning ignition to off?

 

[INNOV8S]

This is how she sounds...

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

Did it keep running just as it was, or was it dieseling /jerking along? If it kept running well, you still had spark so something is up with the wiring or switch. Test for power at the coil with the switch in different positions.

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

Nice find! Looking forward to seeing what you do to her

 

[Rigger]

Very cool!

 

[dogfishlake]

Awesome find! Looks fun. I really need a 40 to make me whole. I've missed out on a few and passed on a few mega rusty ones. It would be fun to baseline it up and roll it for a while.

 

[INNOV8S]

Did it keep running just as it was, or was it dieseling /jerking along? If it kept running well, you still had spark so something is up with the wiring or switch. Test for power at the coil with the switch in different positions.

Cruiser_Nerd, It stalled at the end of the 10 sec video because I am pushing in the choke. I just learned from reading other posts that I need a serious warm up in the 3 minute range. I will play with choke just pushing it in a little after a minute , then a little more. Apparently this is not like the choke on a small engine. I put a vacuum gauge on it and it was a the low end of the range, 430. More RPM, means greater vacuum?, or conversely; More RPM means less vacuum?

 

[INNOV8S]

Original pump gone leaky. Is the the period correct dealer added accessory heater set up? How do I copy this set up with newer parts.? Pls post up your heater valve set up photos, as I am clueless where to find these.

 

[west aussie]

what a great find! i LOVE startup day; its my favourite! have you pulled the rocker cover for a clean and looksee esp if this motor been sitting a long time with the breather open? beware of condensation rust in here at first startup. also a must to make sure you getting oil up to all the rocker gear. this may take a little time but an oilcan suffices in the interim. you can test run this motor with rocker cover removed no worries at all. watching with interest. well done.

 

[INNOV8S]

what a great find! i LOVE startup day; its my favourite! have you pulled the rocker cover for a clean and looksee esp if this motor been sitting a long time with the breather open? beware of condensation rust in here at first startup. also a must to make sure you getting oil up to all the rocker gear. this may take a little time but an oilcan suffices in the interim. you can test run this motor with rocker cover removed no worries at all. watching with interest. well done.

west ozzy, no haven't tried to run w/o rocker cover off yet. Great suggestion, I'll try it once I get the water pump and heater lines tied in some how. I did hear drippping(water sound) after I ran the motor...it must have been some of the cooling fluid, splashing around that hadn't run out through the leaky water pump. I have a pump on order from New Hampshire.

 

[INNOV8S]

Anybody know the trick to remove the front hub flange? 3 of the six bolts snapped/sheared by PO. I noticed it when I had to access for new brake line.

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

If you have all the bolts off, remove cap, then circlip on axle. Easier to get the cap off with it still bolted.

 

[INNOV8S]

Thanks Cruiser_Nerd, I was able to get the cap off using a mini wedge and tapping it from behind a little, and drum off using a large flat screw driver through the 1/2 hole. I had some cheap screw extractors, and was missing a handle. I went the cheap route on handle, and lost, and will have to take the plunge for better extractors, and better handle.

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

If you're no longer having fun and need to invest more than a few hours trying to extract those bolts, look for a replacement drum brake hub. They are worth their weight in scrap metal.

 

[cppilot]

Don't throw out the old water pump. It can be rebuilt.

 

[INNOV8S]

 

[INNOV8S]

New water pump is in with new plumbing! The tie in to the heater worked out.

I was able to get the sub flush broken off bolts out with a screw extractor on the hub. Hub is good to go.

Question on the hi low shift link, where doe the center of the "Y" link bolt to? I was not able to find where it bolts into the vehicle/frame?

 

[tahoe40/45]

It bolts to the bell housing mount on the passenger side.Sorry for bad photo, linkage right in the way.

 

[INNOV8S]

It bolts to the bell housing mount on the passenger side.Sorry for bad photo, linkage right in the way.View attachment 1355520

Tahoe, Mine is so dirty from sitting outside for 30 years I couldn't even see the mounting point. I am missing the standoff like you have and will have to hunt one down. Thanks for posting up!

 

[INNOV8S]

I just experienced a 'dry' bench bleed of the brake master. Everything is moving, but it is blowing air instead of fluid. Fluid is filling in the piston area between the piston cup and the cup near the spring. Fluid is not getting pass the front cup near spring. Any ideas what the issue may be? The original piston is the photo below. I see a TEQ logo, and a '2' maybe, then the '1'. Any one know if this is the correct size piston? I bought SOR's brake kit 04471-35014 ( 014-02A-A, aftermarket) and noticed the piston is about 2mm shorter than the original I pulled out. I bought JBS clutch kit (yes, clutch) 04311-60021 because it was identical to the original length, the 2.84 inch.

Also, I was wondering the retaining washer I have is about 4mm thick. Can anyone confirm what the washer thickness should be. Maybe a thinner washer would change things up? --signed Brakeless