Good ole transfer case trouble (1 Viewer)

[Chugging Along]

My 10/72 FJ 40 will go from 4H to 4L but not to 2H.

I have searched the forums and tried all the reverse tricks/rocking methods.

Some info, I have drive flanges and I recently changed the transfer case oil. When I changed the t-oil it came out a really nasty brown(chocolate)


Unfortunately I have had to drive it on the pavement as it has to be moved in and out of the garage to work on it.

Am I :

A. Not doing it hard enough.

B. Am I screwed and need to carry it to the shop.

It is a floor shift selector for the t case.

Is there a quick way too see if I had the vaccum option ie hose locations?

 

[Poser]

Welcome.


Has it ever worked correctly?

 

[Chugging Along]

Agh forgot to mention that. Yes it was put in 2h by my father in law( who is a mechanic and owns
A FJ 40).

However to get it on the trailer we needed to put in 4h and I havent gotten it out of since.

Which makes me think I am limp wresting it, but I don't want to force anything and risk breaking something.

 

[skidplate]

Maybe get it in some sand or dirt and do the foward-reverse thing. I sometimes have to do that, spin the tires a little. The t-case can bind up alittle when on hard surface. My $.o2

 

[Chugging Along]

Anyone else ?


Does anyone know a good shop to haul it to?

 

[Chugging Along]

Edit : in north Houston

 

[Poser]

Does anyone know a good shop to haul it to?

Might help if you post up where you are at...

 

[Living in the Past]

There is a guide that keeps it from going into 2Low. Try pulling the shifter towards the driver's side when pushing it forward to get out of 4WD. Pull the skid plate and inspect the shifter from below to see if it's catching on the guide. You can also pull the front drive shaft and driver while to get it to a shop or figure it out yourself. Better in the long run to learn your cruiser now. Not cheap taking it to a shop every time something goes wrong and sometimes fixing it yourself means driving home from the back country rather than walking out and have to pay big money to get a tow truck to get it out.

 

[Chugging Along]

Much thanks Living in the Past.

Going to give it a try as soon as I can.

 

[My71FJ40]

Thats interesting...I just thought mine was wierd to, it only seems to have 4H or 4L also. I have tried and tried and finaly gave up. I drive it on the highway at 50+ with the front hubs in Free and seems to do just fine, hope I haven't been hurting something. Everything seems to run/sound ok. I thought maybe I had a wrong shift diagram or something got jacked up when someone switched away from the vacuum since it is 3 on the floor and most 12/70 Fj40's were 3 on the tree...right? Now I need to go check mine out... oh, the thermostat is out of it right now waiting on seals...errrr.

 

[shelfboy1]

jack up a wheel to relieve tension then get underneath and tap the 4x4 shift rod with a hammer .it should move into the t case.if the boot is gone they get stuck and need to be removed and cleaned up.spray it with blaster or your favorite rust remover before you tap it in.good luck

 

[cruiserfien]

My 10/72 FJ 40 will go from 4H to 4L but not to 2H.

I have searched the forums and tried all the reverse tricks/rocking methods.

Some info, I have drive flanges and I recently changed the transfer case oil. When I changed the t-oil it came out a really nasty brown(chocolate)


Unfortunately I have had to drive it on the pavement as it has to be moved in and out of the garage to work on it.

Am I :

A. Not doing it hard enough.

B. Am I screwed and need to carry it to the shop.

It is a floor shift selector for the t case.

Is there a quick way too see if I had the vaccum option ie hose locations?

lift up the front end, get the front wheels off the ground and see if it goes into 2h..BEst of luck

 

[65swb45]

jack up a wheel to relieve tension then get underneath and tap the 4x4 shift rod with a hammer .it should move into the t case.if the boot is gone they get stuck and need to be removed and cleaned up.spray it with blaster or your favorite rust remover before you tap it in.good luck

That was my thought about two posts before yours Robert!

Chugging, this is what you need to do. It's that simple.

Best

Mark A.

 

[Living in the Past]

jack up a wheel to relieve tension then get underneath and tap the 4x4 shift rod with a hammer .it should move into the t case.if the boot is gone they get stuck and need to be removed and cleaned up.spray it with blaster or your favorite rust remover before you tap it in.good luck

Tapping the shifter rod would have been step two. The rod is number 17 in the box marked 16. The rod will point out towards the front. Tapping it to the back will put it in 2WD. Still need to make sure the guide is clear. Remove the boot on the transmission cover and you can see it. If it was parked in 2WD you would thing even with a bad boot over the shifter rod it would still go back into 2WD. But because of the shape of the oil it may be rusted from inside the case.

This picture is from SOR's site. Good source to try and figure out how things go together and what parts should fit what year.

 

[adanielfish]

when i have troubles getting mine back into 2H putting my passenger side front tire up on something (curb, rock, log) always seems to allow it to slip back in.

 

[sloanstavern]

My '74 does similar, I have used this band aid so long it is now Process of Record. After wheeling, back up ~ 10 feet at normal speed. Stop put in Neutral, then shift out to 2H. when I do this it is smooth and efortless. When I have tired to shift without this step it is scary hard, I am convinced I will break something.

Wlecome and good luck

 

[77mustard40]

My '74 does similar, I have used this band aid so long it is now Process of Record. After wheeling, back up ~ 10 feet at normal speed. Stop put in Neutral, then shift out to 2H. when I do this it is smooth and efortless. When I have tired to shift without this step it is scary hard, I am convinced I will break something.

Wlecome and good luck

X2 on the dropping it into reverse and backing up a couple of truck lengths. I usually get it rolling back, drop the clutch and gently pull the TC lever to the driver side as its rolling back. It will just release and then I push the lever forward into 2H

 

[Chugging Along]

Gents,

Thank you all for the replies. Hopefully this will save me some money and gain much need knowledge about this cruiser.

I feel that this machine is pretty forgiving on mistakes but I don't want to push it too far as every machine has it's limits.

I will post an update this weekend.

 

[Chugging Along]

UPDATE: I removed the skid plate and was greeted with this

After a bit of pondering and some help from with wife (to work the shifter)

So a big thanks to all !!!! I can now go on pavement.

While the skid plate was off I changed the transmission oil and upon draining it i was given a great suprise from the PO.

As you can see it is nasty brown. so the fun contiunes.

ON a side note what oil weight do you guys use in your transmission/ trasfer cases/ Front & Rear Diffs?

I am currently using the same 80w-90 for all of them, thoughts?

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

Lots of good advice in this thread!

I find stopping the rig, backing up ~30 feet, then shifting usually works to get the t-case from 4-Hi to 2-Hi.

That used t-case oil looks like used gear box oil (I've seen far worse!)

GL5 rated 75W90, 80W90, etc. works fine in the transmission and transfer case (differentials as well.)

Regards,

Alan

UPDATE: I removed the skid plate and was greeted with this

After a bit of pondering and some help from with wife (to work the shifter)

So a big thanks to all !!!! I can now go on pavement.

While the skid plate was off I changed the transmission oil and upon draining it i was given a great suprise from the PO.

As you can see it is nasty brown. so the fun contiunes.

ON a side note what oil weight do you guys use in your transmission/ trasfer cases/ Front & Rear Diffs?

I am currently using the same 80w-90 for all of them, thoughts?