FJ60 Headlight Wiring Harness (1 Viewer)

[Marc311]

Several weeks ago I purchased a headlight wiring kit from Daniel Stern Lighting for my FJ60. The kit either didn't come with instructions or I have lost them over the past few weeks. I sent an e-mail to Daniel Stern and I'm sure he'll get me on the right track. But given it's the weekend and the holidays, I am too anxious to wait for his response.

So I tried to create my own wiring diagram specific to an FJ60. There are several diagrams for an FJ62, but that uses an additional relay and each has their own little changes. So here is my attempt and I would love to hear your thoughts as to whether it is accurate (so I can start wiring it up!). Try not to drool over my MS Paint skills.

EDIT: The headlight socket layout below is WRONG (LO and High are reveresed)

 

[Heartworm]

I don't know anything about this but I hope you get some input from the knowledgeable. I would love to have access to the "MUD-approved"version for future use.

 

[2mbb]

That looks like it will work to me. I did an upgraded harness several years ago (not one of Daniel's though) and I remember I had two problems: (1) When the high beams were switched on, the low beams would be on too (I think your schematic doesn't have that problem and (2) I couldn't get the high beam indicator to work. As I recall, the high beam indicator was wired to just one of the OEM head light plug. I ultimately ran a jumper between the HI terminals on each OEM headlight plug.

 

[Dynosoar]

I used the ARB harness and it was as simple as can be . It does use three relays, and the high beam indicator does work.

Dynosoar

 

[Marc311]

That looks like it will work to me. I did an upgraded harness several years ago (not one of Daniel's though) and I remember I had two problems: (1) When the high beams were switched on, the low beams would be on too (I think your schematic doesn't have that problem and (2) I couldn't get the high beam indicator to work. As I recall, the high beam indicator was wired to just one of the OEM head light plug. I ultimately ran a jumper between the HI terminals on each OEM headlight plug.

I have seen other posts about the high beam indicator issue. Some had remedied it with a diode and resistor. it seems to me, the OEM wiring causes the high beam indicator to go on because it is always grounded on the low beam circuit. So, when your lights are on the low setting, it offers a direct path to ground, so the current does not flow through the high beam indicator bulb as that is a higher resistance path to ground. I think the diagram above will not effect that as it does not alter the stock wiring in any way.

But the ground switching keeps messing me up - which is why it's nice to have other eyes checking the work.

I also looked again at the OEM schematic. It looks like the indicator light is tied in to both headlamps, so it shouldn't matter which one I tap into. But others have had the same issues you described.

I wonder if part of it is people using a regular switched setup (versus ground switched) or using the wrong relay. I you used a typical relay with just one or two "87" terminals, there would be no way to seperate the high and low beams. I assume that is why Stern included one relay that has the 87 and 87a - which switches between the two (i.e. high and low)

I will also post up Daniel Stern's reply when I get it.

please keep the input coming!

 

[Marc311]

I used the ARB harness and it was as simple as can be . It does use three relays, and the high beam indicator does work.

Dynosoar

I think i paid about $65 for Daniel Stern's kit. It has the parts and you just include thew wiring. That being said, I would likely have paid around $150 for a complete set up I knew worked. I never say a FJ60-specific set up, but didn't look particularly hard either.

 

[Marc311]

I'm not positive about my positions, within the plugs, og the HI, LO, and COM after looking after the FSM and my wiring. It is hard to tell on mine because there is some overspray. I will try to check it out with a multimeter to verify it.

 

[RockDoc]

You will have to make sure the lower relay is still live on high beam to supply 12v. Does the stock Lo terminal remain grounded at high beam? (to keep the relay live, it seems to me that if it did, you would have both the high and low filaments lit at high beam with the stock lights), or do you need a different tie-in point for switching that relay?

Just make sure you check what the stock terminals do at high and low beam.

I just went through trouble-shooting my harness from DS, and while I learned a lot and have great lights now, I think I would go with a pre-made harness the next time.

 

[Marc311]

I was hoping you would chime in RocDoc. I see your point about needing the relay powered whether the high or low beams are on. I don't know if the above is correct, but here is my thinking:

From what I can tell, whenever the light switch is on there is current flowing through the low beam circuit regardless of whether the high beams are on. When the high beam is selected, the low beam current finds ground through the High Beam indicator. I also interpret that to mean, according to the FSM schematic, that the low beam filament must be on when the high beams are on. But I haven't verified that by either a voltmeter or by buring my retinas out staring at the bulb.

Another way to say it is,when the light switch is on, COM is always powered and LO is always grounded. What changes when you select your high beams is that HI is also grounded (and the LO finds ground through the indicator light rather than the selector switch as it does on the low beam setting).

If I can find a way to post the FSM schematic, I will do that as well since it is hard to work through one without the other.


By the way, RocDoc, your other thread has been invaluable in working through this.

 

[RockDoc]

Okay, here is the diagram that Wayne had put together for a 62 harness, which seems to confirm the factory switching as you stated it.

Another way you may consider doing it is using the one relay (without the 87a terminal, switched by the factory common and low beam leads) to supply power to the second relay (with the 87a terminal) and then having the factory high beam and common leads switch power routing from high beam (via 87 I believe) and low beam (via 87a I think) on the new output sockets. With this system, you would use the common terminal of the new output socket to ground the lights. I think this is more along the lines of the instructions DS sent me. Not sure if this simple circuit would have the high beam indicator lighting, but I think it would.

 

[Marc311]

Okay, here is another schematic which also includes the pertinant parts of the stock wiring. I believe this is the method Daniel Stern likely intended, but I still haven't heard back to verify. I also have not tested this particular diagram.

Once I get the thing working, I will clean up this thread so there is an accurate schematic. This new diagram should have the high beams come on while turning off the low beams. Not sure if that is supposed to happen or not, but I will check it soon.

 

[RockDoc]

That looks like a dead-on diagram for how mine works, less the second high beam. Should work out fine. Don't forget the fuse in the power lead. For mine, I ran the lights directly off the alternator, with an engine ground, to lessen the load on the factory alternator lead and ground cables.

 

[2mbb]

From what I can tell, whenever the light switch is on there is current flowing through the low beam circuit regardless of whether the high beams are on. When the high beam is selected, the low beam current finds ground through the High Beam indicator. I also interpret that to mean, according to the FSM schematic, that the low beam filament must be on when the high beams are on. But I haven't verified that by either a voltmeter or by buring my retinas out staring at the bulb.

My interpretation of the stock wiring is as follows:

There are two switches associated with the head lights. there is the on/off switch (twisting the end of the lever) and the headlight flash/low beams/hi beams switch (pull/neutral/push the lever). The on/off switch provides a ground for the coil side of the headlight relay for low beams and hi beams. The HF/LB/HB switch provides the ground for the coil side of the relay for HF and provides the ground for the low beams and/or high beams.

The HF position (pull the lever) turns on the high beams whenever the lever is pulled regardless the position of the on/off switch. When the switch in ON and the lever is in the neutral position only the low beams are on. When the switch is ON and the lever is in the HB position (push), only the high beams are on.

The high beam indicator is wired on the low beam side such that when the switch is ON and the low beams do not have a ground (lever in HB position) the high beam indicator is lit. Somehow, there must be low enough current flow through the high beam indicator that it doesn't make the low beams light.

 

[Marc311]

Okay, I think it makes sense that the low beams aren't on. I'm not sure how it is done, but i can envision the indicator having a high resistance such that the current through the low beam bulbs is too low to light them, but enough to light the indicator bulb.

I'm not sure I agree that both filaments are one during the Flash - but that is based upon my interpretation of the FSM schematic, not based upon observation or testing. It just looks like, according to the FSM, during the HF operation the only things grounded are the Hi Beam circuit and the flash circuit (which closes the factory to relay, allowing the hi beams to light).

Either way, I think the schematic above will work since the factory wiring is 100% intact.

Once I test it, I will also change to the diagram so it clarifies were to tap into the existing headlight sockets. That way, even if somebody is intimidated by wiring diagrams, they should be able to look at the picture and see exactly were to connect wires.

Thanks again for all the help. Hopefully, this thread will be complete by this weekend. Have a good New Year.

 

[2mbb]

Okay, I think it makes sense that the low beams aren't on. I'm not sure how it is done, but i can envision the indicator having a high resistance such that the current through the low beam bulbs is too low to light them, but enough to light the indicator bulb.

I'm not sure I agree that both filaments are one during the Flash - but that is based upon my interpretation of the FSM schematic, not based upon observation or testing. It just looks like, according to the FSM, during the HF operation the only things grounded are the Hi Beam circuit and the flash circuit (which closes the factory to relay, allowing the hi beams to light).

You are correct and I was wrong about the HF. Only the high beams are on (not the low beams) but the on/off switch can be in either position. I corrected my post above.

Regarding the low beams being on when the high beam indicator is lit, there is some current flowing through the filaments (so I guess technically they are on) but the current is probably too low to make any difference in light output. You can think of the indicator bulb as a resistor (like the rheostat is a variable resistor). A high resistance results in a low current draw and low power consumption. When you increase the resistance on the rheostat, the dash bulbs dim and eventually go dark.

 

[AfricanToy]

This new wiring harness does what? can it be purchased at a checker Auto? or do you have to order it from someone? I have one of my head lights dimmer than the other (fj60)

 

[Marc311]

The harness allows you to provide direct power to the headlights - as opposed to getting the power thru the headlight switch. The result is brighter headlights, if using stock headlights. But it also allows you to upgrade to H4 bulbs and housings if you want even more improvement. Not sure if it will help your issue of uneven headlights - it will depend upon the cause of it.

See RocDoc's thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-...s-fire-headlight-harness-upgrade-my-62-a.html

Some places sell complete harnesses, although they may not be FJ6x specific. the schematic above allows you to either build your own or, in my case, buy the parts through Daniel Stern lighting and assemble it. I know Slee sells a harness for the 80 series. I would likely go that route as opposed to building my own.

 

[Marc311]

Here is a link to a guy who makes harnesses for other toyotas, but it looks like it would work just fine and he only charges like $40!!!!!! The site includes a schematic and a lot of good info (including one about improving the reverse lights.

Toyota 4Runner and Pickup: Brighter Headlights

I will still finish off this thread once I figure it out. But frankly, if that harness is half decent it is a steal for $40. He also references this schematic (which is identical to the FSM for FJ60s - but I don't think the same for FJ62s.)

 

[Zack1978]

My quick question is, what is the bottom line on what brand/model harness is the most foolproof for the FJ60? I guess what I am asking, is there a total plug and play harness from a vendor? Will "the best" harness allow the high beam system light to work?

Thanks,
Zack

 

[Marc311]

Daniel Sterns is not a plug and play harness, it is only parts you must assemble.
The one from 4crawler appears plug and play, cheap, and designed for toyota's ground switched systems.

Although I'm not sure, I think the others (rally, ARB, etc) are not designed specifically for Toyota's and certainly not for FJ60s. The one above is specific for a two light, ground switched system. That one, like the one I am trying to build drom Daniel Sterns' parts, should just be the following:

Step 1 - Unplug your stock headlights
Step 2 - Plug the new harness into your headlight plugs
Step 3 - Plug the harness' headlight sockets into your stock headlights (or upgraded H4s)
You, of course, also need to mount the relays somewhere in the engine compartment and route the wires, but that is all it should be.

I really think I am going to buy one of 4crawler's harnesses (they run $40-60 depending on relays used, etc) because I don't see how you can go wrong. I will post up here, obviously, if and when I do that. The only problem i could see is that he seems to build his for pickups and 4 runners, so it is possible some of the wires could be too short to work on a landcruiser.

I sent him an e-mail and told him about this thread (and the somewhat untapped cruiser market). Hopefully he'll post up or send me an e-mail.